what cam to run with nitrous?

What cam would be best for me to run with nitrous that will still give good performance off the bottle? The crower 403 dont give a gain till 5500 rpms and my redline is about 6500 rpms but has less duration than 404 but 404 they give a gain thought the rpms band and more of it but have more duration and i dont wanna just blow my nitrous out the exhaust port. What about a turbo cam, they are high lift short duration cams or wopuld that kill off bottle performance? Thanks

What size N2O shot are you planning on running? I run a 50 shot all day with stock cams. BTW: My little brother is in Raleigh, drives a green 93 special edition, just put a turbo on it a few weeks ago.

its a 55 shot but i need to replace my valve seals so i wanted to get a better cam. I havent seen your brother around but maybe i will always wanna see more G2’s

:shrug: why would you shift at 6500? if the power comes on at 5.5k then rev it to 8k. bigger cams = higher revs

because revlimiter is at 6900 and i have nitrous and the stock rev limiter is a fuel cut which is a bad thing while on the juice

so chip the ecu and change all that

thing is i dont know the first thing about turboedit or chipping the ecu for it and using datalogging. Iv heard all the terms on the boards but have no idea where to start

my original question still hasnt been answered. what would be a good cam for both on and off bottle performance?

They will both be very nice on or off the bottle. the stage 3’s just won’t make power as high in the rpm range but, will make more low end power. to make use of the potential of these cams, a higher rev limit will be needed. :up:

i will raise my rev limit but i dont know how to chip a ecu and dont know of anyone who can near me. but a raised rev limit is in the works

404’s are way overcammnig a stock motor IMO. I would jstu run 403’s and you’ll be fine.

RM L21 regrinds… and they are cheap. u can get full valvetrain for cost of billet cams. if u want them in billet he can do that too.

i dont like regrinds. companies reduce the base circles on cams when the regrind them to acheive new specs and the reduced base circle throws off valve train geometry

They add metal. Any any cam swap will change valve lash. That’s what valve adjustments are for.

you cant add metal to an iron core. Iv emailed crower themselves and they told me they reduce base circles. Cast iron cannot be welded. and when i say valve geometry im talking more than the adjusters can compensate for since the over-all diameter of the cam is reduced

man thats strange. i dont know of anyone using or have heard of anyone using the L21 regrinds and having problems. now 100k down the road we’ll see. the purpose of regrinds are cheap horsepower. when the word cheap is thrown into the mix, longevity usually isnt considered, or achieved. now, darkdragon, you dont like regrinds because you say that the reduced base circle leads throws off the valvetrain geometry. ok. so what if it does. by how much? by how much would it have to be off to matter? it sounds like you’ve read or heard some cleverly presented information from a company that makes and markets aftermarket billet cams. doesnt crower have stuff like this on their site? i think they do. im not saying that your information is incorrect by any means, as the valvetrain geometry is affected. im just saying that it doesnt matter because the regrinds work, at the track, on the street, on the dyno… where it matters. if you are super concerned about it, then order the exact same profile in billet from rocket for another $300. the point of this thread was what cams to run on a nitrous ls. the best answer: custom billet sticks from your manufacturer of choice. there arent many guys running just nitroused ls motors, so there isnt a variety of off the shelf nitrous ls grinds filling up the ad pages of super street. combination is the key. is this a street or racecar? how much nitrous? everyone knows where im going with this…

thank you for your reply. Its a street car thats daily driven and im using a 55hp shot with a wet kit. I thought custom grinds would be the answer but i dont know how much duartion,lift, and overlap ill be needing to have both on and off the bottle gains. As for a custom grind does anyone have a perticular company they would recommend? Ill be calling around to the major manufacturors and see what they can offer, thanks for everyones help