I’m setting aside $2500 to replace my motor. The thought so far has been to replace my motor with a JDM B18C-R.
However, I’m thinking for $2500 (excluding tuning) I could build a pretty nice little B20VTEC combo.
I’m still researching it but I’d like to build something simple with some factory parts and some after market stuff. I’d also like to keep the revs down for reliability sake.
Opinions?
B18C-R All the way! 1. it’s more reliable 2. it’s a freaking Type R!! 3. Dude! lol
unless you are doing the work yourself, you will need more than $2500 to do a proper b20vtec build.
$2500 for a full ITR swap is a good deal. take it. obviously with an ITR motor, there really is not “building” involved. more like bolt on and go
figure out how fast you want to go and your comfort level, then figure out everything else… if you just want something “peppy” get an ITR, or gs-r for that matter
I will be building the motpe with the help of a friend. Only work a shop will be doing is the head work.
I also have a hook up on parts so I’ll be getting most of my internals at cost.
Reliability, I think this really has to do with how high the motor is revved. If it’s going above 9500 or close to it, I think your giving up some of your reliability. I don’t plan nor do I see a reason to rev it that high.
$2500 is not for a complete swap either, it’s just the motor. Then I have to convert it to ODB1.
Still reading and researching, we’ll see what I come up with later today.
Had done this same set up for a customer way back when but with the bisi race header.
B20Z
1 layer head gasket
JG redline Gsr head Milled .20
stock PHK pistons/Rods
Arp rod/head studs
block Girdle
Obd2 oil pump
Bisi header
Exospeed cams
B16b trans
Sheet metal intake
RC 310cc
hondata s200
Alright here’s my parts list so far:
B20Z block
Crower Maxi Light Rods
JE Pistons 12.8:1 CR
Z10 Girdle
GS-R Windage tray, oil pan and oil pump
ACL bearings
ARP Rod bolts
Z10 Breather Tank
GS-R Water Pump
GS-R Timing Belt
1 layer head gasket
GS-R head
Milled .010 to .020 to clean it up and slightly bump CR
Port and polish
5 angle valve job
New OEM valve seals
Bronze valve guides
Brian Crower Stage 3 Cams (310/308)
Brian Crower valve springs and valves
Skunk2 Cam Gears
310 or 450 injectors
Spoolin Performance Header
2.5" Hi Flow Cat and exhaust
Induction I’m not too sure on. Either a Skunk2 manifold with a bigger throttle body and a Password JDM Power Chamber Intake OR ITBs.
I’m still researching the ITB thing, I want this motor to still be streetable in every way shape and form.
…
That’s a bit of a useless post. Why not share something?
I’ll likely lower the CR to 12:1 as it should be a bit more streetable.
OK.
I dont know exactly how aggressive those stage 3 cams are but wouldnt think that they are too “streetable” at least not to the extent that you have expressed you would like your enging to be.
Im probably wrong though which is why I edited my post and put …
I’m not sure on the streetability of them either but for some reason I can’t see them being that bad.
From vids I’ve seen they’ve got a nice lobe to them at idle but most of the cars appear to be street cars. Not to mention that BC makes a street valve kit for use with these cams.
Also the specs are similar to that of cams I’ve seen in street driven small block and big block V8s. So as long as the tune is good, I should be fine imo.
Upon more searching, I found a guy running BC stage 3 in a B20VTEC in his DD CRX. Very similar build to mine and he’s never had any issues with it.
I’m stoked now. Going to wait till after Xmas and then start to buy parts.
DO IT brotha, and dont forget to post a who dunnit on your build with pics :rockon:
Fo Sho!
I plan to start this after x-mas. Hopefully I won’t be too broke lol.
1 layer and 12.8 and a .10 or .20 mill is not good on pump gas.
go for a 3 layer with that cr and no mill. also make sure u get any obd2 bseries oil pump. your build looks good
Thanks man.
I’ve decided to run ITBs. With a good tune I should have zero issues. I might still drop the CR down to 12:1, unsure.
On your ITB set up are u going to be using some from A bike or premade like the OBX ones?
Likely 50 or 52mm TMW or Jenveys. Haven’t decided yet.
OBX is cheap but it’s OBX. Yes I know it’s a Toda knock off and uses Toyota ITBs.
[QUOTE=G2 Racer;1937967]Alright here’s my parts list so far:
B20Z block
Crower Maxi Light Rods
JE Pistons 12.8:1 CR
Z10 Girdle
GS-R Windage tray, oil pan and oil pump
ACL bearings
ARP Rod bolts
Z10 Breather Tank
GS-R Water Pump
GS-R Timing Belt
1 layer head gasket
GS-R head
Milled .010 to .020 to clean it up and slightly bump CR
Port and polish
5 angle valve job
New OEM valve seals
Bronze valve guides
Brian Crower Stage 3 Cams (310/308)
Brian Crower valve springs and valves
Skunk2 Cam Gears
310 or 450 injectors
Spoolin Performance Header
2.5" Hi Flow Cat and exhaust
Induction I’m not too sure on. Either a Skunk2 manifold with a bigger throttle body and a Password JDM Power Chamber Intake OR ITBs.
I’m still researching the ITB thing, I want this motor to still be streetable in every way shape and form.[/QUOTE]
i’m not one up for fantasy builds or anything, cuz most end up looking the same anyways, but i’ve done it myself so i’ll give you some input. just stick with proven parts and you’ll be fine… alot of the stuff you have listed is not needed and will just make the build more complicated,
not to mention, your comrpession is WAY too high for stock sleeves IMO. just use RS ITR pistons and a b16 head and dont mill it either
did you even buy anything yet? and i would not rev a b20 on stock sleeves past 8500 IMO either. 81mm lsvtec… sure but not the b20’s
find a tangible, quantitavtive goal. it will make the build much easier… however, a dyno number is not really a tangible goal unless you have another motor on the same dyno to reference it with; with that said, imo dyno numbers dont mean much without a reference to actual real time data taken at the track.
keep researchign and goodluck
revs don’t punish sleeves, detonation does. if the motor is tune well, and doesn’t run monster timing down low, it will be fine.
op-anything above 11.7/1 c.r. is a bit risky on pump. i think i replied on a post like this in a different forum. anyway, tmw or jenveys? bye, bye $2500 budget. u’ll barley get either one of those units to ur front door for that price. dont waste ur money. g/l with the project
I’m buying everything but the ITBs at cost. I’ll still be over that budget with ITBs but I’m gonna see if I can find some used.
I’ll like be running 12:1 CR. Should be fine for 91 pump gas from what I’ve read.