I am undecided, I’ve always wanted a B17A1. I recently sold my Integra with an internally stock o.b.d. 0 B16A. Now I am preparing to build an o.b.d. 1 Integra.
I am thinking about buying a B17A1 shortblock and a 37820-P61-A00 E.C.M. and installing a stock 2001 B18C5 head onto the shortblock.
I am thinking about buying a o.b.d. 1 J.D.M. B16A shortblock and PR3 E.C.M. and
installing a stock 2001 B18C5 head onto the shortblock.
I want to know is there also a better o.b.d. 1 E.C.M. to use with the combos I have in mind?
I have no desire to use any non O.E.M. parts internally.
I have no desire to use a B18C shortblock and my mind isn’t going to change. Keep that in mind guys. Thank You:burnout:
i would go with a chipped p28 ecu on any obd1 b-series and then tune the engine right.
if you are running a stock shortblock i wouldn’t run the itr head, it is the same as a b16 head. you will be fine running a p61 ecu, but the car won’t make any more power than a stock b17 head. if you are running a stock shortblock and dont mind getting an aftermarket intake manifold, go b17 with a milled p72 gsr head and itr cams, this way you will have the highest compression you really can on the stock b17 shortblock.
if you are ok with building the shortblock with oem parts i would go with .25mm oversized ctr pistons, keep the b16/b17 head with dual valve springs, an itr/ctr intake manifold, throttle body, and cams.
Choosing from the combinations listed.
I would go with the B17A1 bottom end (crank/rods) and the B18C5 head using the B18C5’s IM and T/B with a chipped P28 or the P61 (db2) computer…
With out chipping the P61, I don’t think you will extract the potential performance from the given combination. The P28 will HAVE to be chipped and tuned.
Buy the B17A
Put ITR Cams, 4-1 2.5" Header, Throttle Body and Intake Manifold
.25mm Oversized CTR Pistons
Prelude VTEC 345cc Fuel Injectors ans Fuel Pump (Not sure if it fit the set-up)
Chipped P28 ECU
Only things I would not take OEM are:
Cold Air Intake System
Exhaust System
Adjustable Cam Gears
Spark Plugs
why would you want to get a b17 block and put a vtec head on it?? you can just get the b18 block and put that vtec head, that way more displacement. why would you rather run the 1.6 and 1.7 than the 1.8 when your mind is set on putting that b18c5 head on? mind as well just run a stock b16 and b17?? i don’t get it.
If you want to use all OEM parts your best bet is a GSR ECU with a B17A .
I see no fucking point in using the combo you described. Threads like these piss me off. I am not flaming you in particular. What if I did this what if I switched this Is it possible to do what ive already heard about before ect. Good threads are comments questions or answers not HOT AIR. :rant:
First of all the ITR head that you will find will have nice ports head work and good cams.
However I think If you picked the B16B manifold and Cams you would be happier with a high reving motor.
I doubt the port work made for high compression and fuel tuning would dramaticly help a obd1 B16A.
The proper ECU would be the most help to the engine although with any hybrid there is no real OEM option.
I say if your going to put a all oem engine in a car start with a build. B18C block B16 /B18/a1/b1/c1 crank matching rods type r pistons type r cams and manifolds. Your Valvetrain will suffice.
[QUOTE=illwill;1744707]Because you don’t know sh*t about Hondas. Read my explanatory posts before you open your mouth fool.
First, I don’t have a B18A1.
Second I don’t want to rev to 8,200+ on a motor with that many miles.
Third read my posts about why I don’t want to build an “LS-VTEC”.
They don’t last if you are on a budget!
FOCKER OUT![/QUOTE]
So just because you used to be a honda parts salesman, you know everything there is about a honda? Psh… GTFO.
You’re on a budget right? Do you even know how much a complete b18c5 head costs? Oh wait… yes, you do! You’re a honda parts salesman so you’d know that a ITR head is damn expensive. But since you’re a honda parts salesman, you’d also know that the b17, b16 and b18c5 heads are the same (minus the internals and a really expensive hand pollish job).
Why would you pay an arm and a leg just to get an ITR head when you can spend that money on something else like cams, valvetrain and engine management? Oh wait… it’s because you’re concerned with reliability. Everyone knows that a motor built with aftermarket parts is not reliable!! Oh, and if you’re concerned with reliability, why are you not rebuilding a motor that has so many miles on it? Time constraints? Pfft… give me a break. If you don’t have time to build a motor right, don’t do it at all because it’s going to blow up.
BTW, LS/Vtec’s can be VERY reliable when built on a budget. You just have to spend your money on the right parts.
reliable and low miles and u can still vtec it if u so desire and rev to about 7,500 stock safely (so ive seen) but what is the build for anyway tracks, daily driven, street action???
anyway if u ask me unless your plannin on racing then u dont need to rev as high as 8,000
all your doin by revvin to 8000 daily is puttin that much more wear on your motor. yeah a b16 or b17 could do it for longer if your on a budget but if you are on a budget then i doubt your gonna have cams that make power that high anyway.
Besides that whats the need to rev that high that much. i run a b20 and rev to over 7k alot and it doesnt affect it so i dont se how runnin a different bottom end will affect you.
A b18 vtec bottom end should be able to rev to 8k alot anyway and it cost pretty much the same to build a b18 as it does to build a b16.
maybe im just not getting the purpose of the car but i know that for street and some strip use i love the torque of the bigger bottom end and if thats all your gonna be using it for then why not somewhat make the motor make power down lower in the rpm range so that you dont have to rev that high. any b18 bottom end will do that and like i said it should still cost the same as rebuilding the b16 or b17.
hope this helps and im really not trying to flame you or anything just giving my thoughts and personal experience as far as daily driving and some strip use.
also as far as a obd1 ecu the p28 is probably going to be your best bet as it is the easiest to tune. if you dont want to mess with tuning then i would go with a obd 1 p72 as it shouldnt lean out on you. might get a check engine for the iabs not bein there though
seeing that ur hating on anybody that states an opinion, and Canadians in particular…i’ll start off by saying :stfu: . now, i’ll answer ur question. the motor with more displacement will net more power. secondly, obd0 ecu’s are inferior to obd1 ecus. so, a b17 with c5 head and a TUNED obd1 ecu will net the most
I say go with the OBD1 B16A block if you don’t plan on swapping pistons. The B17A1 just isn’t the best option becuase it has lower compression.
The OBD1 PR3 ECU is fine to use, but you could also use a JDM or USDM P30 ECU from the Civic SiR or Del Sol VTEC.
False.
The Type R PR3 heads were only port polished by hand on the early JDM 96 spec ITRs. Honda switched to a much better machine porting method shortly after. Since the OP plans on using a 2001 PR3 head from a B18C5, it will be machine ported.
