Dam son, getting the job DONE:up:
FYI the helms refers to the size of the bolt which is a 22, not the socket size which as you said is a 32 
shes gonna drive like a new car with all that suspension work
Thanks, I have the palmy blue in my 91 RS and I’m just not feeling it at all.
Looks like it’s coming along pretty well, good luck with the suspension, that’s going to be my next job as soon as I price it all up.
Well some more goodies showed up over the past few days.
Brand New Koni Sport.
JDM seatbelt conversion, from member cmurda8. Great condition.
Seriously thinking about getting a PIC hard rubber bushing set to use instead of the ES bushing kit. Apparently the trailing arm bushing is the only thing that i cant use out of the PIC kit, which i planned to get Mugen hard rubber RTA bushings anyways.
One ebrake cable will not come out of the caliper bracket after 5 days of soaking it in PB Blaster and hammering at it, and having the RTA laying on the floor in the way is a pain when im trying to take the fuel tank down. I may get to it tomorrow.
Early tomorrow ill be stripping the shock forks, and anchor bolts and prepping them for POR-15, i keep putting it off and its gone far enough.
Maybe ordering some of the OEM suspension parts i need, first group should be front suspension hardware and balljoint removing tools (all 3 OEM Honda tools). next group will be front LCA’s and the rest of the OEM tools for hub removal/installation and wheel bearing removal/installation, final group will be new RTA’s and rear suspension hardware. Also need to order the fuel filler neck (discontinued part) and the misc hardware/brackets/hoses/lines for the tank/fuel system. May end up buying a new oem tank if this one turns out to be in bad condition, if not ill clean it out and use a tank sealer.
Quick question, the type of fuel lines that go to and from the fuel filter (thew ones with banjo fittings), Does anyone know where i can get new lines made with braided stainless line and AN fittings?
Look up a company called Pir-teck hose company. thats who I get to make all my lines. check there website to see if there is one in your area.
Nice work! Sounds like you plan on restoring EVERYTHING! 
Are you going to use the USDM panels with the CDM seatbelts? Or will you be buying the CDM panels seperately? I think I’m going to just start buying up random parts of the seatbelts until I can get a complete set together. I’ve been trying to buy a complete set for a while but its hard to find people up in Canada who are serious about shipping. Especially the panels… Looking great so far.
Well TECHNICALLY my belts are JDM, but essentially the same thing. BTW never knew Takata Corp made the seatbelts.
Yea i am replacing just about everything, aside from parts that are likely still good, like the knuckles and front hubs. I hacked the shit out of the LCA ends on the front trying to cut the bolts off and not hit the subframe in the process, so theyll be brand new. Ill replace the rear hubs just because i think the bearings come installed in them.
As for the panels, my USDM ones are already black, and i think i can manage to drill a hole myself. So no i wont be looking for panels. Anyone have any pics of installing the manual belts? All the other threads i found by searching are either minus pictures, or too old to see the pictures. I just need clarification on what to weld where, so i can mark everything and call my welder to come over.
Tried getting a torque wrench from Sears today, of course they dont have the one i need. Only one thats out of stock, not available for shipping, and they dont know when theyre getting more. So now i have to drive 30 miles to another Sears for a wrench. My stuff from Ground Control comes tomorrow, and i want to get them assembled tomorrow and ready to be installed.
BLKACK1- do they use regular stainless fitting or Earls style fittings (red/blue ano)?
[QUOTE=white92LS531;2032761]Well TECHNICALLY my belts are JDM, but essentially the same thing. BTW never knew Takata Corp made the seatbelts.
Yea i am replacing just about everything, aside from parts that are likely still good, like the knuckles and front hubs. I hacked the shit out of the LCA ends on the front trying to cut the bolts off and not hit the subframe in the process, so theyll be brand new. Ill replace the rear hubs just because i think the bearings come installed in them.
As for the panels, my USDM ones are already black, and i think i can manage to drill a hole myself. So no i wont be looking for panels. Anyone have any pics of installing the manual belts? All the other threads i found by searching are either minus pictures, or too old to see the pictures. I just need clarification on what to weld where, so i can mark everything and call my welder to come over.
Tried getting a torque wrench from Sears today, of course they dont have the one i need. Only one thats out of stock, not available for shipping, and they dont know when theyre getting more. So now i have to drive 30 miles to another Sears for a wrench. My stuff from Ground Control comes tomorrow, and i want to get them assembled tomorrow and ready to be installed.
BLKACK1- do they use regular stainless fitting or Earls style fittings (red/blue ano)?[/QUOTE]
just so you know, the rear hub does have the bearing included in it 
you would have to get ahold of them and ask. Im not sure what kind of fitting they can get there hands on. I always just use there SS fittings.
heres and example of some of the work they have done for me.
Stuff from Ground Control came today, yes i know i didnt NEED the tophats but i decided to get them anyways. Question, should i leave the snap rings on the Konis on the middle setting or move them to the higher or lower setting? also, when i install them, i dont think i can use the factory dust covers because of the coilover sleeve, will they be ok with no dust cover? If i dont use the dust cover do i need to use both washers that were supposed to go under and on top of the dust cover, or just one? What would be a good position for the perches when im first installing them?
And i mocked them up for assembly.
I would put the dust covers on. the black thick washer goes underniet the dust cover and the other one goes on top.
Nah neither are black, im using the hardware that came with the Konis. Each shock gets a plastic split washer, 2 thicker metal washers, a metal sleeve, a cupped metal washer and 2 nuts. im pretty sure the dust cover is in between the 2 thicker washers, but if i cant fit the dust cover on do i use both washers?. Thing is i think the threaded sleeve for the coilovers keep the dust cover from sliding on.
Oh and the instructions show to put the old shock body in a vise and hammer the brake line mount off ot it. Yea, def NOT happening. Its so rusted i think if i hammer at all it might explode. So what should i do with my brake lines?
I wont be installing them for awhile, since i have alot more to order still, so i still have time to decide whether i want to install it with the rates i have or swap out for different rates first.
how much were ur top hats???
The tophats were $120 per pair. bumpstops came with them.
thanks, were can i get some from? any performance shop?
You’ll be fine without the dust covers. I’ve been running for a bit and no problems here. Also in regards to the brake line brackets, it helps if you have an extra set of hands to spin the shock and evenly break the rust. They will slide off eventually. Let me or BLKACK know if you can’t get yours off, I know we both have a set we could spare
Well i know for sure one of my stock front shocks is gone, so theres one bracket i need, the other one just doesnt want to budge. So i probably need a set anyways.
You can get the top hats, actually called top mounts by Ground Control, at Weksos, THMotorsports, etc. Any place that deals with Ground Control can get them.
After doing some research ive come to find that my spring(200-64-58 and 180-64-61) rates are 340 and 350. Never heard of having almost the same rates front and rear. The way their mocked up is with the longer spring on the front shocks, with the shorter spring on the rear, which i think is how they are supposed to be. Actually when i ordered them, and on my invoice i beleive it says, that i got the “sport” rates which were 350-290. I think ill install these the way they are and get some stiffer Swift or Eibach replacements. I do want a stiffer spring that would be appropriate for circuit-type racing in the future, but i honestly dont even know an approximate range of rates to look at. Would i want it stiffer in the rear? Seen somewhere 380f/450r combo rode really nice.
If one of you guys could hook me up with the brake line brackets id really appreciate it.
Hey man, everything is looking really good. Loving that interior out come with the red vinyl and floor mats, and awesome suspension choice for sure. I was curious as to where you found those floor mats? They look like they fit pretty good and appear to be of good quality.
I’ll be checking in for more.
Theyre actually really cheap "ricer"brand floormats. When i replace the carpet i may get the “TypeR” red option, so i hope the mats match the shade of red. I dont know the exact brand name, but i do know theye made for a DC Integra. I also have a dark blue set im going to try and dye black for rainy day mats.
They actually are really well made, i just dont like the Integra TypeR badge on them, but when you look at the bottom of the mat, you can see the outline of the badge so it must be bonded to the rubber. I dont want to rip the badge off and leave a huge hole. I honestly cant find them anywhere anymore, because i was looking for black ones.
Took the fuel filler tube off today, man that thing is nasty. Might get to pull the tank tomorrow. Rust pwns me.
Looking for those brake line brackets and the metal caps that go on the knuckle to protect the upper balljoint threads/castle nut. If anyone has any of those let me know.
I can help you out with the brakeline brackets man, shoot me an email
<----------- Look there