all of my three tegs all leaked from the oil pan gasket. last week i changed it on my project teg and the bastard is still leaking! should i put silicone?cause clearly a new gasket torqued to specs doesn’t seem to change anything.
i dont think you’re supposed to use sealant on that other than to hold it in place. It goes on dry like the vc gasket.
Torqued down right? criss cross movement?
i know there isn’t suppose to be any silicone but i cant get rid of this leak. yep criss crossed torqued to spec. im a mechanic but it sucks i don’t have the time to work on my own car like i do on clients cars.
Make shure its the pan thats leaking because everything from the top will rest at the pan and appear to be a pan gasket.
it is the pan no doubt. at first my oil pressure sensor was massively leaking and my oil pan gasket a bit. so i said might as well fix all my oil leaks. now after changing the gasket it started leaking from the front. i think the gasket moved when i torqued it down. like it squeezed out a bit.
How do you clean the surfaces the gasket touches? When I did mine I left the bottom of the block unwiped and thoroughly gave the oilpan a bath in the tub with simple green.
razorblade
yep you clean it with a new razor blade. i guess i have no choice but to take everything apart once again and re clean everything and see if it works the second time.
anyone have a pic of an oem honda oil pan gasket?? i changed my gasket again with a new one, and i think it did the same thing!!!when i torque it down it squeezes the gasket to much and rips it. the specs i get off mitchell are 108 in/lbs. but when i torque it down to that it just squeezes and rips the gasket. this time i tightened it down with a 1/4 rachet by hand to not even 20 in/lbs and it still sorta squeezed the gasket out from the side and riped it in the middle again. just going to have to wait and see if it leaks. if it does im done with fucking jobber gaskets. its a feel-pro gasket that i put.
dont confuse in/lbs with ft/lbs. :read:
once again im a mechanic im not gonna mix them up.108 ft/lbs would of broke the bolt and nuts right in the block haha.i just checked my haynes manual and it says 108 in/lbs as well and they dont even use a gasket, they just use silicone.
oh and spikeymike. 9 ft/lbs = 108 in/lbs
well if the gasket squeezes out then something is being overtorqued. perhaps oil in the threads?
nope all clean. its most likely the shitty feel-pro jobber piece of shit gasket im using. if it leaks again im just doing a silicone gasket. if it works on a ford 7.3 L turbo engine, it’ll work on b18.
Yes, I know. I misread it. It does happen.
yeah mine leakers too…you can obviously tell it is my oil pan too. everything is soaked/drity with oil & gunk about 1-2in above the oil pan to the bottom of the oil pan. i looked all around the head & it wasn’t leaking from anywhere on the block…i ended up finding out my oil pan was leaking because the car started to smoke white smoke slightly 
not much though, just enough to worry you & hope its not the head
mines leaking too
if anyone manages to fix there oil leak, you should list exactly what parts and steps you took to fix the leak. I’m leaking at the oil pan as well. It looks like sepage through the oil pans bolts itself (over torque). Please list the parts, procedures and torque sequence of tightening the pan. That way myself and others won’t have to repeat the repair, we’ll hopefully get it right the first time around. Also now to clarify my understanding from the previous thread. 9ft/lbs = 108in/ lbs YES or NO.
90 white integra
b20b swap with ys1 trans
future vtec modes coming
i am not a tech, but i asked a tech about this when i put my pan on. i torqued mine to the spec in the manual and also found my gasket being squeezed out. he said there’s several simple steps to tightening an oil pan down and he’s never had one leak.
after the pan/gasket is on the block, hand tighten the nuts and bolts. there are an odd number of studs or holes, so the next step will make sense if you keep this in mind.
for this next step, use a 1/4" drive ratchet/socket. he said if you use a 3/8" drive or combo wrench, the larger tool will have a tendency to apply more torque than needed. after the nuts and bolts are hand tight, pick one and tighten a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn on every other one. since there are an odd number of fasteners, when you go all the way around, you won’t tighten the same ones you just did. keep going in the same direction. when i did this, i had gone all the way around no more than 4 or 5 times.
torque the fasteners so that the gasket compresses, but no farther than the edge of the pan. the gasket should not be distorted and should be even all the way around the pan. it should not compress past the edge of the pan. i asked him about my gasket because it had sat overnight torqued to “spec” but he said to loosen it and let it sit overnight to relax. keep in mind mine was brand new, so if yours is older or has been installed for more than a day, you should get a new gasket. if you overtighten or the gasket is severely uneven, you pretty much have to start over because if you loosen one section, the torque in that section will be different. you are looking for even pressure of the pan on the gasket.
thats actually what i did. i put them really not tight with a 1/4 rachet. but even then there still one that squeezed out right on top of the header so it smokes bad to. im going to try doing an rtv gasket. we use this special rtv sealant from ford to do some oil pans. so this stuff should do the trick.