how many of you guys are runnin non-vtec all motor setups. im interested in doin my self this winter and was wonder what route you guys went, i already have a b18b head that has been cleaned, pressure tested and resurfaced, im getting crower 403’s next and just wanted to know what to get after that like a step by step deal any help would be great…thanks
im also thinking of getting a b16 cable tranny and a CTR crank pulley too
go with the crower big bore kit. ultimate sleeper when the hood is popped. no one will know that it is a 2.23 liter inside a 1.8 body. then the cams. talking alot of money but when i go to iraq next year iam saving everyting for the motor and suspension. should have about 20,000 after about 6 months.
im not a fan of vtec so ill be going all motor ls. good results arnt hard to get as long as you do lots of research
good deal
Building my B18A myself, very soon, most parts are purchased, only a few left till the engine gets rebuilt.
PR3 pistons & Hastings rings
Crower 404 cams, VS & Ret., SS valves with 3 angle vjob
ACL bearings & ARP rod bolts
Crank balanced
ITR oil pump (all the same from 1996 and up)
Blox IM, OEM gaskets and seals
ITR header, hi flow cat, 2.5 exhaust
Tuned with crome, probably first street, then dyno
I will have to wait on the short geared tranny.
i remember when i hated vtec… bent valves, extra wiring, special ecu’s, special distributors… til i turned a b20 into b20 vtec… oh dear god my voice changed… i now believe vtec is only shit if you try and modify the way it was meant to engage or think a sohc vtec is supposed to be fast… lol 
i would suggest u dont get the CTR crank pulley… i know the CTR N1 Crank Pulley doesnt have a harmonic balancer which will lead to oil pumps shattering and other problems. Cant remember if the CTR one had one, thats why i opped for the ITR crank pulley instead.
With the 403’s be sure to get the crower valvetrain with it. replace all the gaskets, up the compression with P30 pistons, newer than the PR3’s and they have alil more compression… the more the better for power. Upgrade the rodbolts to ARP cause thats the part that will break when u raise the revlimit to like 7500+ which is wat u should be revving too. Get some ARp headstuds, cause there cheaper than OEM plus there resuable, OEM can only be used once and then u gotta replace them. Try to get everything balanced so everything is rotating properly.
Plus its all about flow, so engine can breathe and wont be choking, bottlenecking at anypart of the rpm band. Intake 3" diameter, Blox or Skunk2 Intake Manifold, Header with a 2.5" collector, Exhaust with atleast 2.25" piping or 2.5"
heres my All Motor LS setup, rite now ive just gotten it streettuned, i think im at 165WHP and still have alot more power to be gained on the dyno.
B18A1 Engine
Mild Port & Polish Head
Machined Cylinder Head
3 Angle Valve Grind
New OEM Valve Guides
Crower 404 Cams (Stage 3)
Crower Titanium Retainers
Crower Dual Titanium Valve Springs
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Skunk2 Cam Gears (1,1)
AEM Fuel Rail
B&M Fuel Pressure Regulator
B&M Fuel Pressure Gauge
Bored 66mm Tapered B16 Throttle Body
JDM ITR Pistons P73-00
Balanced & Blue Printed Bottom End
Knifed Edged and Balanced Crank
Integra Type R Crank Pulley
Shot-peen Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
Block Decked 10 thou
Megan Racing 4-1 Race Header (2.5" Collector)
Short Ram Intake (3")
Custom Straight Pipe (2.5")
Borla Catback Exhaust (2.5")
Type R 3 Core 10.2mm Wires
NGK Spark plugs
Cut Valve Cover
YS1 Tranny Long Gear
ACT Clutch
Greddy Timing Belt
ES Poly Engine Inserts
heres to short vids of my car
just a rip from 30km/h-110km/h
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwOaE9pGAnU&eurl=
at nite from 0-140km/h i let off in 3rd cause i thought i saw a cop, shitty vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wOs5PeApuvI&eurl=
sweet thanks for all the advice i will keep that in mind and thanks for telling me about the ctr pulley
all motor non vtec is alot of money spent for power that can be had with a cheaper mildly built B20-VTEC.
:read: :sipread:
i love a post that brings out the vtec bandwagon. i dont remember his name but there was a recer on irdc that had huge sticker ls non vtec that ran with the best of them, vtec is still overrated. it lets you rev higher and makes a cool crank sound like your going into warp speed and never returning.
the point of my build is i want a sleeper and my car to look stock, my car didnt come vtec and wont have vtec. i smoked a 99si on the freeway a while back which i should have lost due to it was on freeway but i pulled hard on him ( we were both entering) and he never could pass. of course that was a no ball b16a but still. ive seen to many quick ass non vtecs its something differant, everyone always says i cant wait to crvtec or lsvtec and im just like i cant wait to build up my ls.
its not even about the vtec, line up the ls cylinder head next to a GSR, just visually the GSR ports will be significantly larger, the GSR will outflow even some of the best ported LS heads, and until you can prove me wrong on this i stand by what i say, even with oversized valves and extensive port work, the GSR still outflows the LS, thats why LS motors cannont make the power vtecs can.
Either way, if i were to build a non-vtec motor the smart way to do it would be to buy an LS or B20 block, build it, then buy a GSR Head and a Toda Vtec Killer cam setup and utilize the Vtec head advantages.
it all depends where ur funds r at but my non-v setup is as follows
B18a head
Skunk 2 cam gears
Mild p&p
3 agle valve job
crower 404’s
Crower valve springs/retainers
Rc 310cc injectors
B&M Fpr
walbro 255lph Fuel pump
b18a block
ITR oil/water pump
.25 over Ctr pistons
Acl bearings
new oem crankshaft
Ls rods
B16 j1 tranny
XTD stage III clutch(very under-rated)
dyno tuned wit a vafc
stock exhaust mani, Tb, IM
soon to come:
Dc header wit a 2.25 collector
maxbore matchport Im or skunk 2
max bore 65mm throttle body
dyno tuned wit a vafc
damn mike is that all in the new head u just bought?
yes sir and if u want the other head im gonna take it on monday to get hot tanked. so give me a call.
The B20 head ports are larger than the B18A1’s, aren’t they? Why not just use the entire B20 longblock as a starting point?
The B20 head is exactly the same as the LS head unless it is the rare P8R head off a certain JDM B20 with larger valves and ports.
It is soooo funny how we can’t have a non-vtec thread without all the vtec guys going off-topic and ruining it. When you guys see ‘non-vtec’ or B18A/B ‘all motor’ in the thread title, why do you feel compelled to come in and say, ‘vtec is better’. You might as well go visit some single cam civic forums and tell them that twin cam engines are better. Can you not see how you are not helping the question at hand, the thread topic?
I know vtec is better, does that mean I don’t have a right to build my B18A. Or the right to post up a question or mod list without being harassed by vtec lovers. Fact, I will build my B18A with around 175 whp and 135 tq, a broader power band and torque coming on faster, and for less than swapping an engine or head to my block. It is using the funds available to have a nice ‘all motor’ Integra. Doesn’t have to be the fastest.
I admit the vtec head gives you much more potential for future power, power that costs a ton. The cams alone are twice as much for vtec heads than for the LS.
If you have a B18A/B in your car, then it is cost effective to build it and have 175 whp for cheaper than swapping, and you can also build as you go, instead of saving a ton of cash at once. That way you can enjoy your car and the power that is increased mod by mod. If you have the cash to swap or build a nice lsvtec, by all means have at it, but why discourage someone from building a reliable non vtec for less money that will hang with bolt-on gsr’s? I don’t get it.
I guess the forum rules don’t apply to ‘vtec pushers’ in non-vtec threads. Whatever, I’m done.
fucking AAA all motor LS’ and B20’s are fun. Ive never built one, but i was about too on several occassions.
anywho… my setup was going to be…
B18A PR4 block, freshly honed and hot tanked… stock bore 81mm, stock stroke 89mm
B18A PR4 head, freshly cleaned and milled .0010…
Top End - mild PnP, hondata IM gasket, 96+ valve cover, crower 404’s w/matching springs/retainers, skunk2 cam gears, AN-R merge collector, skunk2 pro series IM, ITR throttle body, 92-96 prelude vtec injectors, OEM honda gaskets
Bottom End - balanced and blueprinted, balanced LS crank, IB spec wiseco 12.5:1 pistons, ib spec i beam rods w/arp bolts, arp main studs, arp headstuds, itr oil pump, ls water pump, oem ls timing belt, ls oil pan
I had all the shit I needed… but shit happened in my life and I had to get rid of it all.
SO, goooooood luck with your shit man