If the ports in the GSR are larger, then it might be benificial to get a setup that utilizes the head while disabling the VTEC. I don’t know how possible it would be, but it would be nice to find out if a person could swap the non-VTEC setup into the B18C1 head and make it work. This has got me thinking, now…thanks for the info Turbog2teg311.
Out of the factory, most 90-93 Integras were all motor non-VTEC :shrug:
interesting read since i haven’t started anything on my DB1 but i would like to keep it as much a sleeper as possible. as far as goal HP what would be the less expensive of the two without having to cut corners? i want to do it right. goal would be 200whp. i would also like to not have it all top end either. i want something that has power relatively throughout the rev band.
If you run the Crane 232/250 cams with a high compression all-motor build, you could get good power across the band (google search the import tuner crane cam install…good article). However, I don’t think you’ll hit 200 wheel horses with those cams. They’re designed to get better torque in the low and mid-range over top-end power.
the best part of a non vtec build, its not so common. and youll be very impressed with the results. and to really stir up the vtec guys lets make a big vtec badge for the ls motor and post the pics. we could flame this post by doing that.
All motor non v rocks. fuck the haters! :getsome: :manual:
x2:gunleft: vtec :gunright:
its expensive but if you send head and intake manifold extude hone will pot polish the head and intake manifold to match each other and is a very good reliable head. do some oversized valved, a mild cam, and good header and exhaust with some high comp pistons with tuned ecu. you should be set. it will beat most the cars you run by. remember alot of the hardcore HP lsvtec guys dont run there car daily. there just weekend night fun car. and a good set-up will kill most gsr. depends on driving skill. i knew a guy that had a sohc non vtec civic that use to smoke everything including a turbo b16. guy just had skills. he even swithed cars with a guy he beat and still beat the guy. just to prove his car was stock.
yeah im looking to get crower valvetrain not sure on what cams 403/4 but probably some b16 pistons and im saving money right now to send the head out to get pnp and 3 angle valve job, and a chipped ecu but help me out to which ecu setup i should go with? i really dont know much about ecu’s and i think some skunk 2 cam gears as well with the ITR pulley since im not running p/s or a/c i dont want my oem heavy weight pulley…
and to all the VTAK lovers out there i dont want to go b20/vtec or ls/vtec or full vtec motor because to get a b20 would cost $500 …(port polish, 3angle valve job on my ls head) right there…then to get the vtec head would be another $400-$450…(cams,cam gears for my ls head)…then to the vtec conversion kit which i dont know how much time and $$$$$ that would cost probably over $400 for kit and everything else…then about 3k for a GSR swap hahaha NO. so thats why i want to be DIFFERENT than everybody else and not have VTAK :bump:
I currently have an all motor ls. It’s got low compression though cuz I want boost in the future. But for the time being, I like my all motor ls. Currently have a milled head, 9-1 pistons, built head with p&p work, skunk2 IM, crower403’s and y1 lsd tranny with 4.4 final drive. The only thing that sucks is I need to be tuned. I’m not really taking advantage of my setup as it is now.
yeah see thats why im kind of worried if i get high comp pistons that someday i want to go turbo but for now i want to get fast little by little
First establish what your HP goal and then weither your plan on turboing or really want NA, if you do it rite the first time it will save you bucks in the end.
well i want the most power as i can, just as i go though i mean eventually im gunna piece a turbo kit together but i want cams and shit first but my hp goal isnt a factor because i just want a reliable car and have about 300hp in the end but for now i just want to stay n/a have around 165whp from n/a
That’s one thing that is great about building the B18A/B’s, the Crower 404’s are great NA cams, and are just as nasty as turbo cams because of their relatively mild duration specs. When your ready to go turbo, swap the pistons and your set to boost.
so what is a reliable and reasonable HP goal to set going NA with my 90 LS motor? is 175whp and streetable an achievable goal? i’m not very familiar with the honda side of things and am learning along the way. my first car was an 86 AE86 that i dumped $3000 into the engine and about another $800 for the suspension. a guy i new didn’t charge me anything for labor cause he was starting a speed shop and wanted cars to show his skils with. damn thing was like a gokart:D i didn’t drift so the suspension was setup for grip. most expensive part was the formula atlantic 4age block he got from an unsuspecting seller, haha. it was all love until on a trip to florida i had a “performance” shop do all my fluids and they didn’t replace my oil. mind you i was using all race spec fluids. seezed engines suck. moved on to a maxima for a while.
My build…
Bottom End
10.5cr JE Forged aluminum piston,
b16 Oil pump(go with a ITR or GSR)
LS Water Pump (match the water pump with oil pump, ITR or GSR)
Decked Block,
Fully balanced Rotating Assembly,
Top End
JG Head miled
TI Retainer,
Valve Springs,
Port n Polished,
272 Duration Delta Cams,
Skunk2 Intake Manifold,
LS T.B. bored to ITR spec,
RC Engineering Injectors,
Crower Cam Gears.
Ignition
MSD 6a Ignition box,
Prelude Cap with external point,
MSD 8.5mm plug wires,
MSD Blaster SS coil,
Exhaust
Vibrant 4-2-1 w/ 2.5 collector J spec header (T1R replica)
Catco high flow converter,
Magnaflow Resonantor,
2.5" exhaust piping,
Megan Racing Cannon Style muffler
Other stuff
Xact 12.5lb flywheel,
Exedy Race Clutch,
INJEN Cold Air Intake,
ECU with custom chip,
Apex SAFC II (mainly used for monitoring)
It pulls really good up to 7.5k
I think the first thing you should do is to make a horsepower goal and decide N\a or boost. I decided to go boost and I think you should too if you want to leave your options open. You might get tired of your NA setup, but I’d make sure before dumping your money into NA. Not tryin’ to bash, just make sure that’s what you want to do before you decide what pistons to get. Plus I think you can leave the motor stock either way and just build the head. I’m wanting boost, but can’t afford it right now…but feels good to know I have that option and my car is still no bitch on the street. I feel like I have the best of both at the moment, but Higher compression would be making me happier right now. Hell if I were tuned I’d be happier right now.
bender-san
If the ports in the GSR are larger, then it might be benificial to get a setup that utilizes the head while disabling the VTEC. I don’t know how possible it would be, but it would be nice to find out if a person could swap the non-VTEC setup into the B18C1 head and make it work. This has got me thinking, now…thanks for the info Turbog2teg311.
that’s what the TODA vtec killer cams are for… they’re also around 800-900 dollars each… or some rediculous amount of money… i can’t remember
Do you NEED to use the VTEC-killer cams in a C1 head, or is there a way to use the plethora of non-VTEC cams in that head (I’m not familiar with the differences in head design between the two)?
no, it wouldn’t be possible. If you really wanted a B18c non vtec I would say you have two options
- TODA VTEC killer cams
- put B18c internals into your B18a. you would likely have to change out pistons for the type r pistons or aftermarket pistons if you wanted decent compression though. the combustion chamber on the ls head is 45cc versus the GSR combustion chamber volume of about 41cc.