Hey guys,
lately, every know and then, my car will try and turn, and then either start up and die or not catch. usually it starts up nice and quick. but today, it wouldn’t start up like 4 times in a row. i got worried. waited 10 seconds and then it started up.
Does this sound like my alternator is going or something? distributor? any other things cause this… battery?
thanks 4 any help that you can give.
u using those bosch Platinum plugs?
Just get a volt meter and check your battery. That’s the easiest way to check. If your battery is good, then most likely its the alternator…most likely it’s the battery…when was the last time you changed your battery?
Happens to me about once a month, Tony.
I dunno WTF is up with the car… but usually I just chill for about 20-30 seconds, then start her up again and it’s all good. And it won’t happen for another month or so 
I think it’s one of those “Teg problems that can’t be fixed cuz if u fix it, it just wouldn’t be the same Teg” 
Mine does that sometimes too. Like i will try a few times and it wont work. Then I just wait like 2min and try and its fine. Weird, huh?
cliff: i replaced my battery last year w/ a die hard gold (but i have had to jump it a few times due to leaving lights on)
but i don’t think it’s my battery… the power seems to be there. i had my distributor coil die on me a few months ago, and that usually just dies without warning.
i’m thinking we all have old alternators… i mean our cars are 10-12 years old! anyone know if there’s a way to test if your alternator is going?
my car was doing that for like a year.Then i found out it was a bad fuel pump relay.
Originally posted by lutz g
my car was doing that for like a year.Then i found out it was a bad fuel pump relay.
cool, that’s something for me to look into. how did you find that out? took it to a shop?
TIA
Mine was doing that when I got the car, had a fuel leak (under back seats the fuel line was way rotted) replaced the rotted part with a rubber hose piece and clamped on.
Was fine till I changed the plugs and did oil change last week. got really really bad if I didn’t run the car for 5mins+ to warm it up before shutting off (I live around corner from work and sometimes if I am in a hurry its a really bad turn on turn off thing then it wont start after work) happened two days in a row.
Took out plugs checked gap, adjusted a bit (got super fussy) and then it seemed fine till today when it did it again after a quick turn on turn off.
I have a new fuel filter, timing belt, (few other misc things that dont matter) and outer left tie rod I have to stick/get stuck on (depends how lazy if I have the shop do it for me lol)
anyway,
if the fuel filter doesn’t fix it then I am going to check the lines again.
Dunno how bad winter is to your car if its possible lines are rotted/rotting?
The pressure loss was the problem before.
I assume its the same thing…I find giving it gas helped today but not before…before it just turned and turned 5-6 times I tried before it started.
But lots and lots of pull in alternator and battery, I had those things die before on another car, nothing like that.
Sorry to be long winded but I wanted to be thorough.
If anyone else has ideas let me know as I am wondering if its something else as well.
Chado
i had my friend test it he works at acura.Its like 57$ from acura
My car started to do that to… I got the same Honda batt that came with the car 
This happens to me once in a while, everything starts up (lights/stereo/etc) but the car won’t turn over. After a while I found out that if you turn the key and hold it in place for about 5-6sec the car would start right up.
interesting. how did you discover that rotten fuel line?
well, i do have a AEM fuel rail and FPR w/ stock injectors. maybe i have the fuel pressure adjusted too low? i could check to see if i’m leaking at all… i’ll check the fuel pressue gauage taht’s installed on the fuel rail.
Originally posted by RSTeg
[B]My car started to do that to… I got the same Honda batt that came with the car
This happens to me once in a while, everything starts up (lights/stereo/etc) but the car won’t turn over. After a while I found out that if you turn the key and hold it in place for about 5-6sec the car would start right up. [/B]
that’s different. that’s what a dying battery does. what i’m having is the car turns (w/ good power) but just doesn’t catch and fire up. but then the next time, it’ll start up real quick like nothings wrong.
car was peeing fuel coming from under driver rear side…so I traced line and it was yuck.
I didn’t actually fit the rubber myself I had the guy safetying my car do it.
25$ to fix anything that required a custom bracket or piece of hose 
ie; my rad had no bracket holding it when I got car (new rad idiot installation) so he banged me a new one 25$ cash.
All in all when I got my car uhh however long ago that was it was like 100$ to safety it including the safety and the couple on the spot things that weren’t safe :shock:
Chado
not to often, but mine does it sometimes, wont start, let it sit a few, then starts…wierd 
-Ryan
Originally posted by AcIntegraLS
[B]not to often, but mine does it sometimes, wont start, let it sit a few, then starts…wierd
-Ryan [/B]
THAT’S IT … I HATE G2 INTEGRAS! I’M FED UP! ANYONE WANNA BUY MINE???:mad:
Strange, my car did the same thing the other day at the car wash, but it was probably from water getting through my “new” hood gap and onto the plug wires. The whole dryer countdown finished before I could get running again (luckily it started back up and gave me another 60 to pass through it again!!! )
Check to see what kind of shape your rotor (the one on the distributor, of course) is in. Mine seems to get chewed up after many miles (crappy distributor).
same problem here… Happened yesterday… It was a hot day. I’m suspecting the Main fuel relay.
will check it when I have some time.
when was the last time you changed the cap (and rotor)? in addition to the suggestions given already, i know it gets kinda moist in seattle, so maybe some condensation could be getting into the distributor housing? just a wild possibility…
Originally posted by cspeed
when was the last time you changed the cap (and rotor)? in addition to the suggestions given already, i know it gets kinda moist in seattle, so maybe some condensation could be getting into the distributor housing? just a wild possibility…
Actually, mine was acting up, and felt like it was running on three cylinders (esp. at higher RPMs), and sure enough, when I changed the cap and rotor, things were back to normal. I also changed out my spark plugs at that time. You may want to check the cap/rotor and see what’s up in that dept. May help, may not.
Hope you get things worked out Tony. 
