I have one more ? what did chuck make UN-corrected ? If you knew about dyno’s you’d know that the correction rate is VERY adjustable!
When you have a dyno chart to make fun of let me know, we’ll talk.
what did chuck make UN-corrected
If your an expert on dyno’s you should know, its an SAE number and the dyno is at 5300ft.
Actually, I want to personnaly challenge you to come out here with YOUR car and put me in my place on MY track. For someone that has soooo much to say I wanna see you back any of it up. Again, no dyno, no slip, no actual race, no running car as far as i can tell.
ok then don’t answer any ?'s just make an ass of yourself. all I started this argument with was, what brand of dyno did you use and what was your uncorrected power. you had to ramble on and on and NEVER answer my simple questions. 
both of u just stop sounds like we are in honda-tech
MY penis is bigger.
no mine is bigger i got a t88
Better get that shit checked by a doctor :worry:
I hear T88 is pretty serious…
This is one fucked up thread. It started out with turdrcl asking if a particular turbo will do and was MAYBE one page (if that) of useful posts. Then the last two pages were juiced and chunk arguing about who’s internet penis was bigger. Fucking lame. Take that shit over to HT.
hmm… atleast i got some good arguments for both sides in. O well, cant expect much on the internet so im satisfied. I think ill be goin with a T3 .60/.48 = ). Anyone dissagree? besides Juiced?
k, sorry :argh:
I posted this last night but i don’t know where it went :werd:
I just think a T3 on a LS with aftermarket pistons and rods is a waste of time. the think clit isn’t telling you is that he corrected his HP #'s. he is really only making 180whp.
Damn we need a MOD in FI.
You may have some valid points but you’re a fucking useless tool that is just trying to start shit and ruin a decent thread. Go suck your own dick elsewhere until you want to play along.
Chunk has a been a helpful member to G2IC for a while now I have noticed and would have no reason to lie to you or anyone else on this forum to float his ego.
If any MOD is reading this, this thread needs to be fucking locked…stick a fork in it, she’s done!
I’ve got an exhaust leak now and a broken exhaust mani stud so I’m gonna try and get it apart and back together again by Friday night. If it goes well, I’ll get my boost controller on and will run 1opsi and see how that goes. All indications thus far indicate that is should be still making boost at 10psi so we’ll see.
I’ll post up slips, and for the record those are SAE dyno numbers, I thought I had made that clear over and over again but maybe not. I’m done with the arguement though, this crap is why I don’t go to H-T.
It’s a BONE STOCK motor stupid, no aftermarket pistons or rods…
Just to prove your talking out your ass, i e-emailed a shop in your area… www.racerelated.com in Clearwater, FL, and got this back from them…
Subject: Re: Dyno time
We get here around 9,if that iis not early enough I wouldn’t mind coming in earlier,just let me know a time and date and I will be here.
seems like they have dyno time…in fact, it’s the same kind of dyno we used.
Oh, and one last thing on corrected vrs uncorrected HP…you are in florida…that’s sea level…we’re in Albuquerque new mexico…that’s 5,000 feet…our uncorrected numbers are CERTIANLY going to be lower than yours…cuz thats what correction DOES stupid, it compensates for elavation…so if chunk makes 220 corrected here…that’s going to be about 220 (give or take 5-10 hp) at sea level…see how that works? that’s what corrected whp is all about. Now maybe in florida you don’t CARE about corrected numbers cuz they are basically the same as your uncorrected, but at 5,000 feet…the air is MUCH thinner, and it makes a BIG difference.
So, take your engine parts down to racerelated, and ask them to dyno it for you.
Or, better yet, when you have it running, make a pull at 7 psi and we’ll see how you do. be sure to have them correct it to sea level…since that’s what correction is all about (unless your running ass dyno, and then you can make up your own numbers and take a picture of that…)
OK, now i’m really done, sorry to everyone for this polluted thread, but as xenocron said, this guy is an ass, and I felt like it would be fun to put him in his place.
juiced2ndgenteg…i’m still waiting for your dyno numbers, or timeslips…
what exactly is sae whp…is that just the indication that its corrected…even if it is corrected he would still be running at least 200whp at 7psi…not 2 freaking bad…i would be happy with those kind of numbers!
Yes basically. SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) publishs a standard method for generating corrected HP numbers. This is my limited knowledge of how it all works. They gave me corrected and uncorrected numbers at the dyno. I’ve never heard anyone ever complain about SAE numbers, including all the mustang guys on our local forum, and they will bitch about ANYTHING, lol, so I have no reason to believe there is some error in the way its calulated.
SAE Documents on Horsepower
My uncorrected HP IS 180 here. Unfortunatly the only value that number has is to peeps at the same elevation (or air density) as me. All indications are that I will be able to get 200 uncorrected HP at this elevation. That should be around 250 SAE HP. I should be able to do this at around 10psi. This has been my goal all along. If I can’t do it with my setup at 10psi I’ll prolly address some other things before I up the boost, maybe tend to the intake flow.
He was referring to my build with the aftermarket pistons and rods. I stated I had eagle rods with SRP pistons. I think he meant my engine, not Chunk’s. And Albuquerque New Mexico? How old r u? i grew up there, just curious if u went to school or if i ever met you. I went to Saint Pius X as a freshman about 5yrs ago. i miss it but i got used to texas so whatever.
And as for the initial question, for everyone, since it seems that the T3 would probably get me to 200whp at 8-10psi, what if i wanted atleast 230whp at that psi, what kinda turbo would u recomend? id rather have atlest 230 and not worry about those little GSR/H22 swapped hatches then barely hit 200whp at that low of a psi. And yes, my block is built, just not the head portion.
i still say t3 with the .60/.48 …even the guys on homemade turbo can get that kind of power…check this out… http://www.homemadeturbo.com/turbo_projects/random-strike/ …and thats with their half ass crap…the dyno is at the bottom and it says actual horse power and torque not corrected…if you learn how to read the flow maps and what a b18a/b needs then this turbo is like perfect…i took like 15 minutes and learned how to read it and it looked pretty good to me (plus i had to do some stuff like this in class so i had a little background)
At 800ft (your elevation) you could get over 200hp uncorrected at 7psi if your build was close to mine. Don’t forget, i’m like 4500ft higher than you. There are alot of factors though. I still feel like 200-250 corrected HP at 10psi or less is doable for the T3 we are talking about. Like i said, i hope to get mine to 10psi and REALLY tune it in the next month or so then I may have more advice, or even a different opinon 
Have you read random-strikes writeup on homemadeturbo? He made 226hp and 240 ft/lbs of trq on 10psi with his build. I was hoping my torque numbers would look more like his but i have a feeling my manifold is whats pushing my peak torque over 5252. Oh well, I’m happier with the slope on my dyno anyway!
EDIT: LOL, I posted the same link at the same time!
Yea must be nice, they live in Seattle… Corrected = Uncorrected :nana: