Hey I was wondering what coilover or shock/sleeve combo is good for slamming? And when I mean slamming I’m talking about scraping mudflaps on the ground slammage and tucking 195/50/15 or even smaller… I know Koni/GC is a good combo, but I was wondering what other options there are. I’ve read around other threads but I haven’t quite found my answer yet. Any help is appreciated, thanks. I’m currently running Function and Form Type Two’s for a DA and I still do not have the desired drop in the front I want, I have it all maxed out in the front (without the preload being messed with), and I still have one finger gap. If anyone could help me with a few choices that’d be nice, thanks !
OTS Koni/GC isn’t gonna get him super low and still give much travel… Since he’s trying to slam the car then he’s not looking for actual performance. He’ll probably have better luck getting that slammed look with some of the cheaper coilovers on the market now. I think a lot of the new ones have decently short shock bodies and allow for the car to be pretty low. Of course they won’t have the quality shock valving of a Koni setup. But that won’t matter because anything that low is going to handle like shit anyway.
Also, be aware that when you’re talking about lowering a car this much you will run into not only clearance issues with the shock body, but also actual suspension components. You may need to cut out your strut towers to allow for UCA clearance.
personally i would say the GC/Koni Yellow combo with extended tophats would definetly get you to where you wanna be. Try getting ahold of tegzjunkie, id say hes the lowest out of the majority of us so he must know alot about clearance and slamming.
Nah, I’ve felt that way since they started passing out camber kits that were from ef civics as a part for our car. ALso the past few years skunk2 uses slander in their ad campaigns. In mags, forums, facebook, etc. Instead of letting their work stand for itself, they bash and badmouth other companies. THe newly erupted ‘head bounty’ is just what I expect from a company that uses fallacy as their PR and advertisements.
reading this short thread, that i personally subscribed to, will get you where you need to go…in essence, get some eg/dc coilovers…probably a set of F&F (type 1 no dampening type 2 dampening adjustability) w/ some EG forks and go at it
[QUOTE=Colin;2248178]OTS Koni/GC isn’t gonna get him super low and still give much travel… Since he’s trying to slam the car then he’s not looking for actual performance. He’ll probably have better luck getting that slammed look with some of the cheaper coilovers on the market now. I think a lot of the new ones have decently short shock bodies and allow for the car to be pretty low. Of course they won’t have the quality shock valving of a Koni setup. But that won’t matter because anything that low is going to handle like shit anyway.
Also, be aware that when you’re talking about lowering a car this much you will run into not only clearance issues with the shock body, but also actual suspension components. You may need to cut out your strut towers to allow for UCA clearance.[/QUOTE]
Thanks Colin. I always learn something when you post up lol. TO me, the Koni GC combo is the end all be all suspension for the price lol.
It probably is if you’re looking at it from a performance angle. But I have to admit that there are a lot of little things that bug me about my Koni/GC setup that would be remedied by a non-sleeve type coilover. Products like this are getting cheaper and cheaper to produce so Koni is losing it’s advantage somewhat. I know when I was shopping a couple years ago PIC was making some pretty decent stuff, just wasn’t track tested enough for me to choose that option.
As for caster and EF parts… has anyone actually had any PROBLEMS with caster from EF UCA’s? I know they they change caster, and there was a lot of yelling and bitching in that Skunk2 thread, but did it change it in a negative way? I’m running Vision UCA’s built for an EF on my DA, and they’re fine. I don’t have my caster numbers though, and now I have adjustable caster via my radius rods so I could likely offset any ill effects anyway.
I never had an alignment done w/ just the Vision arms. Since the crossmember is adjustable for caster is pretty much makes it impossible to tell what caster changes are due to the crossmember and what is due to the UCA’s. And “within spec” doesn’t mean anything in my case anyway since nearly all of my specs will be out of OEM spec because it’s a track car. And even when it was a street car I kept my alignment out of OEM “spec”.
Caster is one of those things that is a bit strange, and the stock specs you get from a book are just where it was originally and having it out of that would mean something is messed up (if the car was stock). But deviating from those specs can be good or bad depending on what the settings are. Before I adjusted my caster it was set wrong and it made the steering VERY heavy on the track. Originally I thought it was just my arms being weak after getting used to a daily driver with power steering. But after trying to get the car smogged and it would not stay on the rollers I new something was wrong. Turned out the caster was way off, I roughly put the wheel back in the stock location (fore/aft) and was then able to get the car to stay on the dyno and steering was much easier.
For completely slamming the car, you won’t find a better ride than GC/Koni with the extended top hats.
I know you’re probably looking for “other” (read: cheap) ways to go about it. If that’s the case, just get ebay sleeves, Tokico shocks, and ebay top hats.
Thanks for all the input guys… And my friend already tried the EG fork trick with the Function Form Type Two’s, and it did not make a difference at all. If anyone else has any experience with D2/Ksport let me know… those are my other choices besides the Koni/GC. And yeah I’ve heard that If i want to go super low I would have to start cutting the shock tower or something around that area.
[QUOTE=integra_hot;2248183]reading this short thread, that i personally subscribed to, will get you where you need to go…in essence, get some eg/dc coilovers…probably a set of F&F (type 1 no dampening type 2 dampening adjustability) w/ some EG forks and go at it
I tried the EG front forks with the DA Type Two coilovers and it did not make much of a difference, are the EG/DC shock bodys of the Type Two’s shorter than the DA ones?
yea from what i’ve been reading…eg/dc have a shorter shock body period, so i’m guessing it’d transfer over into the coilover setups as well, even though coilovers are shorter than struts
The overall benefit of a shorter shock when slamming is that the shock isn’t super compressed like a full size shock would be at those same ride heights. That “pre-load” on the standard shock is just unecessary wear n tear compared to a short bodied/short shaft shock.
But I guess I’m just not sure what you’re trying to accomplish? Just get Koni/GC’s with top hats and call it a day.
OR, I have a buddy right now with a CRX running Ksports with GC top hats…they seem to work well for him.
