while i m bleeding brakes the car rear right,rear left, front right then front left the brake seem firm until i start the car the pedal goes weak again like sloshy feeling all the way to floor so i tried to bleed the brakes while the car is running to see if it works on the jackstands but it wont start like battery is dead once i got her back on ground she started right up must be those damn wire gremlins touching metal or something
sounds like a grounding issue.
some grounds can actually be adversly effected by different types of body flex.
Far as the brakes, that is weird, but you shouldn’t have to bleed with the car running anyways. COuld be a funky master cylinder or proportioning vale (Again part of master cylinder)
yeah funny thing is once my car is warmed up it’ll start to idle low like going to stall out, when i try to pump brakes to make it firm it idles normal at 850-1000k rpm once i stopped pumping it idles low again lol idk i guess ill deal with it til i find the problem but i gotta fix the weak sloshy brake though i got 3 step kids. man this car got bunch of problem the previous owner fucked this car up bad looks like he fucked with everything wiring brakes lights deleted ps ac and boosted but now its coming back to life with a 99 crv (high comp) b20b from japan (idk how miles on it but pulls strong plently of torque) love this motor im going to keep up with maintenance
KOER, is the pedal first firm then sinks to the floor? or is it just spongy? what was the reason for bleeding the brakes in the first place?
for your idle issue, have you tried adjusting idle as per procedure?
went do a few more bleeding in the rear works ALOT better will do a little more once i got the stainless steel lines on them the reason i was bleeding them is because i swapped the caliper cause they were leaking out of piston due of thin rotor and pads when i was pulling up to my drive way using emergency brake without foot brake pedal i was in hurry putting it in neutral using e brake to get out faster LOL oops the rear pad fell off haha then a little after driving piston was leaking out fluid so thats why i had to bleed air out ill have to bleed them again soon to change brake lines cause the parts car have steel lines so yeah that would be fun lol
no havent mess with adjusting the idle tonight was a nice drive after brakes bled out runs smooth and i couldnt get it to warm up enough to make it idle low tonight it only does this when motors get a little hotter (not overheating) that will make it idle low havent been driving it at night for a while
also battery start flicking at first goes away a while later i hate this wiring or ground issue im happy its getting healthier almost everyday thank god for parts cars
didnt start few times today im thinking the ground is bad it doesnt have ground wire from frame to tranny will that cause battery light and headlights flicking??
head lights and battery lights flickering sounds like you have a failing alternator, which would also cause alot of the issues you are having as well… I’d pull it out and get it tested
oops forgot to post yesterday the problem was the ground was not on tranny it was on radiator support i bolted it up there cause i was putting in the motor didnt want it to be in the way and forgot to put it back on tranny after motor is in LOL starts up fine everytime now
also i m going to try start it on the jack stands to see if that was it to make sure cause idk if theres another shorts in the system
and yesterday tried adjusting the idle on throttlebody it idles normal til i shuted it off and restarted the car back same low idle issue do i need to disconnect battery before starting?
same result as when i pump the brake to make it idle normal even after i bleed brakes and brake works good
thank you guys i like this forum this one helps me alot than any other forums like superhonda lot of bad cursing over there too didnt like it
did you disconnect the iac before adjusting idle?
no i didnt, do i need to?
absolutely. if you don’t, the ecm will just counter your adjustment through iac command. it’s the same deal when you set timing. you want to disable the ecm’s ability to control.
start the vehicle and run it to operating temp. disconnect the iacv. idle should drop to roughly 500rpm. if not, adjust the idle screw until you reach that.
reconnect iacv. CLEAR CODE. idle for 10 minutes to allow idle/iacv relearn. idle should now be at roughly 750rpm
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do i turn the car off before reconnecting the iac or after reconnecting?
you turn it off after reconnecting the iac…to clear the code. after you clear the code, idle the car for 10 minutes
idles where i want it to idle at 850 
thanks so much i might want it to idle at 1000 how do i do that lol for my driving perference lol
still need to put the new throttlebody gasket on and clean the throttlebody and intake manifold they are black as fuck the motor been ridin dirty without intake or filter just a open throttlebody just like vtec kicked in just kidding
i want to take manifold off to clean it out REALLY GOOD i just dont want to clean it while its on the head
the cel is on its throwing iac code. do i disconnect battery to clear it?
pull the ecu fuse, underhood. fuse out for say 5 minutes
also, you really should just leave the idle where it is specified to run. idle rpm is actually a lot more important than you probably think
took the ecu fuse out didnt clear the code. the car runs fine for now will need a little more of work to ensure its healthy
pull the neg battery cable for 5 minutes. you want that code cleared. afterwards, allow an idle relearn, as mentioned previously
Thank you, cel is gone but code 17 will come back soon for speedo sensor im not even worried about that right now im trying to figure why idle drops when the headlights are on, idle raises when i pump the brakes, dome light and cluster light dims when i apply brake thats about three problems i have right now i know some of u guys dont bother with small issues like dimming lights and low idle with headlights on but it bugs the shit out of me lol