Would you keep the b18a?

ASSISTANCE Stock Engine-Bay Components
1

I swear i posted this thread last night but now I cant find it…Anyway I need a little advice.

I just bought a 90GS with 100000 Original Miles, and I have a 96B18b with 60 000 miles from my last car that was hit in the rear. My question is…

Would you a) Keep the 90b18 and put the extra money into making it faster?

or b) sell the b18a to pay to swap the b18b into my new car.

I was really happy to have the b18b. It an awesome motor and had no problems what-so-ever. The b18a is brand new to me and although it burns nothing and looks mint and has low k’s…Im just not sure what to do. I waited a long time to get rid of the 90 b18 and fell in love with the torqeier b18b.

What would you do?

Thanks,

P.S. Im not looking to build this motor just bolt ons and maybe turbo someday.

2

personally I’d keep it. That’s really low mileage and the torque difference isn’t all that large

3

You can “feel” the “6” lb ft of torque the B18B has over the B18A1?

4

You can “feel” the “6” lb ft of torque the B18B has over the B18A1?

Well 6lbs/ft of torque is what…About 7.32% of the total amount of torque. So yeah it can be felt, though undoubtedly its more butt dyno that anything. :stuck_out_tongue:

But what about the better flowing head? Don’t you think that makes a diff as well?

Just curious to see what each person would do in this scenario.

EDIT Why DOES the b18a1 have less torque anyway?

5

You lose some of that through the drive train and in the end it’ll be 2-3lbs realistically which can not be felt at all.

6

It has less tq/hp probably due to the head, the cams, intake and exhaust not to mention its OBD systems.

7

Peanut butter versus molasses, duh. If the trans tires and/or clutch your hooking up to isn’t strong then it won’t be noticeable.

8

I’d keep the b18b long enough to be sure you have no problems with the b18a, and if not sell the b18b. I don’t see the point in going to the trouble to swap in an essentially identical motor. If you want to do a swap, see if you can sell both and get a b20z.

9

It has less tq/hp probably due to the head, the cams, intake and exhaust not to mention its OBD systems.

Yeah I hear ya, thats what I’ve read as well. But i would like to know what exactly it is attributed to. If anyone out there reads this and knows a good thread on it somewhere please link me. I keep searching but I just find a lot of opinions.

SpikeyMike: You really dont think that can be felt huh? Hmmm, well if your right and it can’t…Then the only reason I would be swapping is to have a motor that is 6 years younger.

6 years and 60 000kms is a fair chunk of time. Is it worth 500 bucks I guess is the question…

10

This may help.

http://www.nonvtec.com/forums/a-quick-write-up-on-the-differences-in-b18b1-heads-t1783.html

11

Thanks man for the link. Was very helpful right up until that guy chimed in in the second last post and basically said that the 90 OBD0 b18a was a “sorry excuse for a b series” when compared to the 96+…Cuz those are exactly the two motors i am talking about lol

Basically the whole thread says there is no difference at all until the last post says its 16hp difference and flows way better!

16hp and 6lbs/ft torque, and 6 years younger still seems almost worht $500

Bah…I dunno. Just dont wanna be unhappy with the choice I make and always be wishing for those extra horses lol

12

Keep in mind that the torque difference is measured at peak torque, which is at approximately 5000 rpm for both engines. It’s not necessarily 6 ft*lb throughout the rpm range. What you may be noticing is improved throttle response or possibly a slightly different slope of the torque curve at certain rpm ranges. But overall it’s likely a case of the butt dyno at work.

But I would consider keeping the b18b as a spare or for future use provided storing it wasn’t an issue. How does the $500 come into play? Are you buying the car back after an insurance write-off?

13

i love the b18a motor … ur not gonna get major hp or tq gains without doin serious work any way…why not do ur basic bolt ons that would be interchangable to the new motor or build the bottom end of the b because its allready out of the car …mybe go lsv or low comp ls turbo …theres somany possibilities… i am allways changing my mind on what to do engine wise…

14

that’s the going rate for a motor swap. i’d say he plans on having someone else do the swap for him.

15

Okay, now I get it. In that case I’d run the B18A, provided it was healthy (good compression), and keep the B18B around as a backup or basis for a fresh build. 160,000 km is still fairly low for a '90.

16

yeah, i agree. as long as it is in good health, leave the motor in the car. then you can sell or build the spare, or just keep it around just in case you ever need it.

17

Thanks guys I think Im gonna stick with the b18a.

Turns out the insurance company messed up anyway and although they distinctly told me that my car was a write off and could never be fixed…Now they say its ok to fix. :S

So looks like the b18b will stay in the car, I will fix the rear wheel damage, and sell the whole car.

awesome answers guys thanks :slight_smile:

18

just wanted to say…

i know there are a lot of people who will tell you to do an LS-V-TEC build, But, unless you "KNOW HOW TO BUILD/RE-BUILD, the chances of your LSvtec motor being dependable, is drastically reduced. along with the list of potencially problematic issues delt with used part swapping, and the fact that HONDA are engineering marvels…if the lsvtec is so good, why wouldn’t they use it…because IT HAS TO MANY PROBLEMS… but it you CAN BUILD, and CAN fix issues as they arrive, before they become a mechanical issue, then, by all means, waste a load of money building a crappy motor, when a B18A with a bolt on turbo, being cheaper and fun, that’s what i’d do.
I prefer low end torque, over high end HP. i’d be telling you a different story if i was talking about a track car. AS for the B18A over B18B, seriously, there are the same motor. just one is NEW, and one is older. the newer one has slightly better mechanical engineering aimed at low end preformance. A B18B is a B18A, with some porting/head work. actually, a B18a with a full port n polish, would most likely make more power than a b18b.
I’m a 2nd year mechanical engineer, i’m usually correct.

19

If you prefer low-rpm torque over high-end horsepower then you should love the ls/vtec. The advantage of a lower rod ratio is that increased piston speeds will actually aid low-rpm exhaust scavenging, which in turn increases torque. There are plenty of engine designs with less-than-ideal rod ratios that are capable of making reliable power.

And the ls/vtec is one of them, provided it’s done right. This has pretty much been discussed to death here. Just because someone slaps a B16 head on a tired LS, revs it sky-high and throws a rod doesn’t mean that every ls/vtec is a “crappy engine”. Besides, it’s just as easy to grenade a turbo LS if one doesn’t know what they’re doing.

I really don’t see what one has to do with the other, honestly. And I assume you mean 2nd year mechanical engineering student. In which case you can’t call yourself an engineer. That privilege is reserved for those with a P.Eng. designation.

20

[QUOTE=sublimesnj;1972081]i know there are a lot of people who will tell you to do an LS-V-TEC build, But, unless you "KNOW HOW TO BUILD/RE-BUILD, the chances of your LSvtec motor being dependable, is drastically reduced. along with the list of potencially problematic issues delt with used part swapping, and the fact that HONDA are engineering marvels…if the lsvtec is so good, why wouldn’t they use it…because IT HAS TO MANY PROBLEMS… but it you CAN BUILD, and CAN fix issues as they arrive, before they become a mechanical issue, then, by all means, waste a load of money building a crappy motor, when a B18A with a bolt on turbo, being cheaper and fun, that’s what i’d do.
I prefer low end torque, over high end HP. i’d be telling you a different story if i was talking about a track car. AS for the B18A over B18B, seriously, there are the same motor. just one is NEW, and one is older. the newer one has slightly better mechanical engineering aimed at low end preformance. A B18B is a B18A, with some porting/head work. actually, a B18a with a full port n polish, would most likely make more power than a b18b.
I’m a 2nd year mechanical engineer, i’m usually correct.[/QUOTE]

all you’ve stated thus far is claims… without any material backing.