Read and look at the pics closely. I ditched the ITR struts for CRX coilovers. The CRX coilovers are tucking the rear tires at max height while still on jackstands, since they are 3-4 inches shorter than the already short ITRs pictured beside them. They are meant for a 3-5 inch drop on a CRX. If you looked closely, the rear trailing arms are angled upwards, which means that my trailing arm bushings are binding (not to mention they had already begun to crack again). I will be replacing them with sphericals.
The ride is wayyy better than the previous ITR setup. It is over an inch lower and really smooth for the most part. The primary issues are my OEM rear trailing arm bushings which cause the rear end to bounce from time to time and the front upper control arms which tend to bottom out on the inner fender (SPC camber kit makes it really easy to bottom out). Both issues will be resolved with the parts I have listed under future mods.
We need to meet up sometime…btw I think I found a shop that might be willing to change out the bushings…haven’t talked price, but the owner is a friend of mine. Will keep you posted.
Its actually really easy. You could do it yourself. It takes probably an hour for a novice. All you need to do is remove the three bolts that support your current Rear Lower Control Arm then replace and bolt it back up.
heres my crappy DA before the rattle can paint job.
all i have are old skool WeaponR coilovers on stock struts. the front is to low for me, but hopefully soon i’ll be getting blues with some tanabe df210’s…
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hey what kind of bushings are these… i wanna do the exact same set-up… where can i get some polyurthane bushings? i want it for everything[/QUOTE]
energy suspension bushing, you can get the whole kit on ebay
Yup, I have the full Energy Suspension master kit. Prothane also make a very nice kit from what I hear (but that has bushing sleeves that need to be pressed in). 90% of the ES kit can be done by hand with no special tools. The ES master kit doesn’t include front or rear sway bar d-bracket bushings (but those come with upgraded sway bars or can be bought seperate), rear sway bar endlink bushings (no one makes these in poly, that I could find), compensator arm bushings or rear trailing arm bushings. You can order the compensator arm bushings through Prothane (ES doesn’t make them) and the rear trailing arm bushing can be replaced with OEM, Mugen, ES or Prothane. Most people seem to recommend OEM/Mugen due to a possibility to bind with solid poly bushings, but the ES ones have worked well for me.
I burned the old bushings out with an acetylene torch. Piece of cake. That leaves the outer metal sleeve, so I just used a hacksaw to cut the sleeve and pounded them out with a chisel. The ES bushings are 2 piece with no outer sleeve, so they press in easily by hand.
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