Installed Wing Terminals
The List
Master Pro Timing Belt $46.99
Master Pro Distributor Rotor $15.99
Master Pro Distributor Cap $11.99
Master Pro Axles $105.98 ($52.99ea)
Import Direct Water Pump/Gasket $39.99
Gates Alternator Belt $19.99
Gates A/C Belt $18.99
Gates Power Steering Belt $17.99
Honda OEM PCV Valve Hose $27.99
Fel Pro Valve Cover/Spark Plug Gaskets $23.99
NGK Spark Plugs (Iridium) $27.95
NGK Spark Plug Wires $39.99
VHT Black Wrinkle Paint $9.99
Total: $407.82
Before
After
clean up nice.
turboda4dr: Thanks.
Need help!
So i am basically finished with timing but would like some help with making it 100% done. I got camshafts TDC, Crankshaft TDC and got the ignition timing set. Does the timing have to be TDC exactly or BTDC? and is it required to ground the plug under dash in order to do ignition timing?
Are you referring to mechanical or ignition timing? When installing the belt you set the tdc mark on the crank pulley to the mark on the timing cover. When adjusting your ignition timing you set it to 16 degrees +/- 2 degrees before tdc with a timing light. Those are the other 3 marks on the crank pulley. You don’t ground the connector, you just jump the two pins together.
rollinmyda: Ignition. For mechanical I set the crank to white mark and both cams to tdc arrows up. Did the order of steps to get the belt tight. but i think the problem was I didn’t let the engine warm up before I started the ignition timing and I didn’t set the ignition timing 16" +2 BTDC. Will have to plug ground in right after radiator fan turns on.
Taillights and Bumper
Taillight Gaskets Needed
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-90-93-Acura-Integra-LS-RS-GS-GSR-B17A1-B18A1-DA9-DB2-Tail-Light-Gasket-SK7-/380868028241
Also looking for spare bumper
(GOOGLE PICTURE)
B18a1 vs b18b1
B18A1
Non-Vtec
Found in: 1990–1993 Acura Integra USDM “RS/LS/LS Special Edition/GS” (DA9 Liftback/Hatchback, DB1 Sedan)
1994-2001 Acura integra Displacement: 1,834 cc (111.9 cu in)
Compression: 9.2:1
Bore: 81 mm (3.2 in)
Stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in)
Rod Length: 137.01 mm (5.394")
Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.54
Redline: 6500 rpm
Rev Limiter: 6800 rpm
Programmed fuel injection
Power: 90-91 Only: 130 bhp (97 kW; 132 PS) @ 6000 rpm & 121 lb·ft (164 N·m) @ 5000 rpm
Power: 92-93 Only: 140 bhp (104 kW; 142 PS) @ 6300 rpm & 127 lb·ft (172 N·m) @ 5200 rpm
Transmission: 90-91: A1,S1, cable
Transmission: 92-93: YS1, cable
B18B1
NON-VTEC
Found in: 94-01 Integra RS/LS/SE/GS - DB7/DC4/DC2
1994–2000 Honda Integra “RS/LS/GS/SE/(GSI Australia)” (DC4/DB7)
1992–1996 JDM Honda Domani (MA5)
1993–1994 JDM Honda Integra (DB7)
1996–1999 JDM Honda Orthia (EL1) Displacement: 1,834 cc (111.9 cu in)
Compression: 9.2:1
Bore: 81 mm (3.2 in)
Stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in)
Rod Length: 137.01 mm (5.394")
Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.54
Power: 142 bhp (106 kW) @ 6300 rpm & 127 lb·ft (172 N·m) @ 5200 rpm
Redline: 6800 rpm (7200 rpm on JDM Domani)
Rev Limit: 7200 rpm
Transmission: Y80/S80
JDM version is marked B18B on the block without any number.
JDM version has a compression 9.4:1 where the usdm version is 9.2:1.
JDM version has a higher compression ratio which results in higher hp and tq levels than the usdm version.
Still having problem with timing. So I tried to get the timing to 16" +2 BTDC and the distributor wont go that far, Sits more on Retarted side of distributor between pulley tdc and +2 btdc. What did I do wrong to get to were I am at right now? and how would I fix this? Runs good but need to pass smog.
Double, or triple check your mechanical timing. If that’s not it, is your distributor an OEM unit? I had the exact same problem once after installing a new belt and couldn’t get the ignition timing even close. I double checked my mechanical timing, even tore it all apart as a sanity check and reinstalled everything again. Still couldn’t get ignition timing close so I pulled the distributor off (it was aftermarket not OEM), rotated the teeth that meet the camshaft 180 degrees, and it was perfect. The rest of the adjustment could finally be made with the distributor. Some of the aftermarket units don’t have different sized teeth to match the grooves on the camshaft.
Still haven’t tried to fix it yet. Will have to remove valve/timing belt cover, Double check TDC on Crank and camshafts. If those are all correct, remove the distributor and rotate 180 and see if it works? Just hope its not too hard and I don’t wanna mess up the distributor O-ring. Will also take some pictures that i forgot to take.
(Diagram on bottom has a NOTE aswell idk if its true or not)
NOTE:The lugs on the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both offset to eliminate the possibility of installing the distributor 180 degrees out of time.
Timing Diagrams
ATDC after top dead center
BTDC before top dead center
ABDC after bottom dead center
BBDC before bottom dead center
Pulley Marks:
White: Crankshaft TDC (Single Dot)
Yellow: BTDC (Right Dot of 3) 14"
Red: Ignition Timing (Center Dot of 3 ) 16"
White: ATDC (Left Dot of 3) 18"
-=ATDC +=BTDC
Code:
16"+2
Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement on a G3 Teg :
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/blogs/vitamin_d/288-timing-belt-water-pump-replacement-g3-teg.html
Problem
So while working on the timing TDC I noticed my brake light is on even when the E Brake is down. The E brake light goes brighter when E brakes on and when I release it, it gets a little dimmer. What can cause this?
Low brake fluid most likely. Or a problem with the connection at the ebrake.
rollinmyda: Fixed problem. Ended up being the sensor on the master cylinder. Will continue to work on TDC. Thanks for the help.
Lug Nut Problem
Will be ordering 4 new wheel studs and a set of new acorn lug nuts aswell as a torque wrench.
Also will need to buy set of LS Meshs.
Lug Nut Information
Ebay Parts Came In
Wheel Studs $14.52
16 Acorn Lug Nuts $13.79
4 Rotor Screws $11.50
Total: $39.81