just curious to see if anyone has found a breaking point for the bottom end of a b18a1? im getting ready to boost my integra and have heard of some holding up to almost 400hp but not so sure about it. any insight on this would help out greatly. just really curious to know what the pistons, rods, and crank can handle without kicking me in the ass.
shoot for 300whp if you plan to do stock internals. You will be safe with 300whp give or take. The tune is the key!
what mods involved in 300whp though??? on stock internals
440cc injectors
e-manage
cam??
what else?
[QUOTE=a-man;1914008]what mods involved in 300whp though??? on stock internals
440cc injectors
e-manage
cam??
what else?[/QUOTE]
Garrett T3/t4 57 trim
Spoolin Performance Log Manifold (Downpipe, flexpipe and dumptupe)
custom intercooler piping
bigger size injectors (I would go with 680cc)
2.5 inch exhaust
Hondata S100
Tial 38MM Wastegate
Tial BOV
Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump
Boost Controoler
other misc items…
theres alot of other ways to hit 300whp on a stock block
500cc+ injectors
any tuning software other then a piggyback
Almost any turbo (not going into details) its really up to what your using the car for drag,RR,autox
3inch exhaust
Do you plan to build in the future? If so, I would suggest not buying very cheap parts as you will be paying more in the long run for when you upgrade your turbo kit
Things to make sure you don’t go cheap on:
Manifold.
Injectors.
Intercooler.
Turbo.
Tuning.
Especially don’t go cheap on the manifold. I’m sure you’ve seen the horror posts of cracked manifolds. You can spend a little less on piping BOV and exhaust, it won’t look or sound as good, but you won’t be losing performance on these parts as long as your exhaust is 2.5 +.
[QUOTE=oneoffG2;1914136]Things to make sure you don’t go cheap on:
Manifold.
Injectors.
Intercooler.
Turbo.
Tuning.
Especially don’t go cheap on the manifold. I’m sure you’ve seen the horror posts of cracked manifolds. You can spend a little less on piping BOV and exhaust, it won’t look or sound as good, but you won’t be losing performance on these parts as long as your exhaust is 2.5 +.[/QUOTE]
I agree 100%
You can be just a baller and get the following
Garrett GT3076R
Precision 600 whp intercooler
Ramhorn Manifold
1000CC injectors
Hondata S300
call it a day:)
yea not goin all out there buddy lol. using either 375 dsm injectors or the 450cc dsm injectors. aem fpr, custom built manifold, downpipe, and intercooler piping, with a pte small bar and plate core. the turbo is a factory 2g eclipse turbo. also apexi safc and having the ecu chipped and tuned on a dyno at the local shop. the goal for right now is no more than 270 or 280whp. i have a block that i am curently building for later use. im just trying to see what i can get away with and have a little more speed on the stock block.
I may be wrong, but I believe the 14b (eclipse turbo) won’t put you close to 300 WHP. I think 220-230 is more like it from what I have seen online, and that was at 10-15 psi. the people were MAXING out at like 240-250 on 18+ psi. I dont have personal experience, so dont quote me on that, it is just what I have seen. I think for 300 WHP you would need at least a T3 Super 60 with the .60/63 configuration (believe they come on old mustangs and thunderbird turbos that are manual). I would probably go for a T3/T4 50 trim with a .60/.63 A/R. That will spool fast and leave room for you to grow up to around 400 or so WHP. It will take less boost, and just be generally easier to hit your goals with that. Also, you need the 450’s, they max out at 300-320 WHP from my experience at about 80-90% duty cycle. the 375’s wont get you to 300, probably not even 250 WHP. You wont need the SAFC if you are getting a chipped ECU.
I would go with a setup like mine:
Log manifold
2.5" exhaust/downpipe w/no cat
2.5" charge pipes
turbo XS RFL BOV
tial 38mm wastegate
Stainless braided oil lines
28x6x3" B&P intercooler
Xenocron 255lph fuel pump
silicone couplers
t-bolt clamps
Turbo Edit chipped ECU w/Ostrich, datalogging
AEM wideband
Boost gauge
Stage 2-3 clutch
I have a 3 .42/.48 now, but only going for 220-230 WHP at the most with it, getting a 50 trim T3/T4 when I want to step up
there is some stuff I missed, but something like that would be good. You need to search around though, and read the turbo guide, there is great info in there.
If you plan to make more than 350 down the road, I would not suggest getting a log manifold…most of them bog past 350whp:read:
^^ good point, but if you are keeping stock internals, you are approaching the “Safe” limit of the stock internals at around the same power level, so it might not matter. Like he said though, if you are looking for more than 350 down the road, and are planning to build an engine, you may look into like a short ramhorn or full ramhorn.
The UGR I got has proven well on the dynos, I have seen a few 450+WHP with them, and no major power loss compared to ramhorns. I am going to go for probably 400-425 on 16-18 psi, and just like 300-350 on 10-14 psi for the street. when I get my new turbo, havent decided what yet though. If I make it, I will be able to provide first hnd experience, which is always better.
yeh i fuked up when i bought my manifold i shoulda got ugr one instead i got ramhorn… but itll still go with a/c now… its modified to the ying yang
yeh im only goin 440cc 2 inch dump and 2.5inch exhaust…
its only because of the a/c i dont have alot of room…
i got the same size a/r and trim as that turbo previously mentioned .53 i think
also whats a aem wide band???
Boost, boost, boost. I’m seeing numbers like 14 and 18 psi, but NO map sensor. Let this man know that you need a 3 bar map sensor to boost past 11psi. If you dont have a map sensor, your stuck at 11. I had to get a Chevrolet Silverado 3 bar map sensor to boost past 11psi. Also, are you OBD 0? Need to go to OBD 1 with that Hondata along with an OBD 1 distributor.
That’s not always true I’ve boosted 12psi on a stock map on a few Hondas it was when i went over the 12psi were we needed a GM 3bar. But like I said it works for a few but not all.
What are your plans for tuning? I would suggest Hondata S100 if you don’t plan to make that much whp.
[QUOTE=JETT_07;1914259]I may be wrong, but I believe the 14b (eclipse turbo) won’t put you close to 300 WHP. I think 220-230 is more like it from what I have seen online, and that was at 10-15 psi. the people were MAXING out at like 240-250 on 18+ psi. I dont have personal experience, so dont quote me on that, it is just what I have seen. I think for 300 WHP you would need at least a T3 Super 60 with the .60/63 configuration (believe they come on old mustangs and thunderbird turbos that are manual). I would probably go for a T3/T4 50 trim with a .60/.63 A/R. That will spool fast and leave room for you to grow up to around 400 or so WHP. It will take less boost, and just be generally easier to hit your goals with that. Also, you need the 450’s, they max out at 300-320 WHP from my experience at about 80-90% duty cycle. the 375’s wont get you to 300, probably not even 250 WHP. You wont need the SAFC if you are getting a chipped ECU.
I would go with a setup like mine:
Log manifold
2.5" exhaust/downpipe w/no cat
2.5" charge pipes
turbo XS RFL BOV
tial 38mm wastegate
Stainless braided oil lines
28x6x3" B&P intercooler
Xenocron 255lph fuel pump
silicone couplers
t-bolt clamps
Turbo Edit chipped ECU w/Ostrich, datalogging
AEM wideband
Boost gauge
Stage 2-3 clutch
I have a 3 .42/.48 now, but only going for 220-230 WHP at the most with it, getting a 50 trim T3/T4 when I want to step up
there is some stuff I missed, but something like that would be good. You need to search around though, and read the turbo guide, there is great info in there.[/QUOTE]
well i did some research on the turbo that i already have and it maxes out at 250hp. did more research and the 375cc injectors will hold that, but at a rediculous fuel pressure of 75psi. also the turbo im using isnt a 1g turbo (14b) as u mentioned, it is the 2g t25. basically im just using what i have and building around that. im not trying to make a bad ass race car thats going to do a 1/4 mile in 9 seconds flat, but just a little extra power for some fun. that and to out run the local gst with his factory turbo 
[QUOTE=a-man;1914504]yeh i fuked up when i bought my manifold i shoulda got ugr one instead i got ramhorn… but itll still go with a/c now… its modified to the ying yang
yeh im only goin 440cc 2 inch dump and 2.5inch exhaust…
its only because of the a/c i dont have alot of room…
i got the same size a/r and trim as that turbo previously mentioned .53 i think
also whats a aem wide band???[/QUOTE]
aem wideband is a wideband air/fuel ratio gauge and sensor. a lot more percise than the ones u get from advanced auto and hook up to ur ecu. very good to have when tuning to get the most out of the car.
no need for a bigger map sensor with the set up im using. the factory actuator for the t25 opens up at 10 psi and i dont plan on running over that for awhile. again, just a little something to add some kick to the car, not going all out.
not using hondata. more money then i feel like spending. im taking the car to the local dyno shop and having the ecu chipped and tuned on the dyno.