Ok so three days ago, i put my car up on jacks for new brakes, and a master cylinder. Now i got the brakes on and all and now the car wont run. The weather was humid/rainy and i had the hood open to put the MC in. Now i thought it was because it was wet so i put it inside for the night. I then checked all sensors, and distributor cap for moisture and they were dry so i checked the plug, wires and still dry. I then took out the IACV,FACV, and TB and cleaned them, and installed went to try it again and nothing. I thought about fuel, checked the wires for the fuel pump, injectors, FPR and all and everything was fine. I disconected the fuel line to the FPR and fuel came out just fine, clamped it down to that the FPR would be maxed out and was fine. So i continued to start it and it would idel at 1k and then die, so i gave it some throttle and it died. So it would die by itself and when throttle was given. Checked ecu and chip and all were good. Now when we went to the battery after so many times cranking it would die, and so we charged it and would it be fine, tested in with a volt meter and it read 17v. Could that be my problem or something else. I was also thinking alternator. Any help would be appreciated
any one??
well i think you posted in the wrong area unless it has to do with a boosted motor but to awnser your q i had a similar issue and it was the fuel filter. most people forget to change it at some point in the life of the car and if you had the manuel for it it might say to change it every 30 000 miles. i dont know exactly when it is but if you were movin shit around even if its not the tank the residue from the inside of the fuel lines could very well cloged your filter even if there is fuel coming out it may be plugged enough to prevent aduquet flowage but who knows
so the wrong forum… oh and btw… check ur distributor and cap and rotor. pushing out 17v when u just finished charging it means ur battery is bad. i believe the 3min charge test shouldn’t get a reading of over 15.5v volts or something like that. but basically if ur battery has been “inactive” for like 30min, u should have a reading of 12.66v… the lowest i believe u can ever have it be is like 12.2v or so to still have it able to perform properly and start up the car.
keep ur stuff in the right forum tho.
my Da is boosted, so i thought i would throw it in here. I check the distributor cap and rotor and it was fine. What should i be looking for, also i changed the fuel filter when i bought the car which was 2 years ago, and i have not put 30k on it, but i did move the tank when i installed the wally?? It ran fine though?? Im just at a loss cause i have tried everything and it still isnt running, i guess ill try those little things again?
More help is always appreciated
hmmm… u check all ur lil vacuum lines and what not? i still think its ur distributor. u might wanna test that, easiest way would be to get a known working one and throw it into ur car and try it from there. it could’ve gotten damaged from the rain, but it usually takes a bit to do that. also for curiosity… look around the master cylinder again… and check if u disconnected anything that u forgot to put back on.
sounds to me like a serious vacuum leak somewhere
does seem like i have a huge vacuum leak, but ive looked im going to look again. I mean everything on the car is original, the alternator war super old, and i garuantee that the distributor is original as well, so anything could be possible. I will check over the vacuum lines, again, im going to look at the cap and rotor even though its new.
i’ve had it where a cap/rotor just quit on me randomly. Similar to your problem. Did you check that you have a good spark? You must have some spark for it start, but if your cap or rotor is on its way out the door, it could be the reason for intermittent failure. Like someone else said, swap the whole distributor with a known good one to test it, if you can. Otherwise it probably wouldn’t hurt to do a cap and rotor anyways, if you havn’t done one yet.
I havent but i literally just changed it a few weeks ago? I guess ill try the cap rotor, and fuel filter first and the new alt and a different battery. While checking for vacuum leaks, loose connections, and fuses. Any other ideas guys
???
if i were u… i’d change ALL the vacuum lines anyways… trust me, if they are original… changing all now will save u headaches later down the road even if the vacuum lines aren’t the issue now. after that, if it still doesn’t start… have a friend help u… and while he/she is starting the car (cranking it)… get some starter fluid… and spray around the intake manifold… do NOT have the person have their foot on the gas… if it starts with the starter fluid… then u have a vacuum leak around the IM. if that doesn’t work… i’d check all ur connections AGAIN. then check ur fuel pump and main fuel relay. make sure they are getting power n stuff, and with the mfr, if its still old… REPLACE IT ANYWAYS. $10 for a known good working mfr also saves lots of headaches, and lots of members here can back me up on that.
if all that doesn’t work… try what i said b4… and borrow somebody’s distributor… and give that a go. let us know what happens.
i was thinking about the mfr, and all the vacuum lines are new as of today and still no go. Im going to buy a new distributor tom, and see what happens. No one i know has a distributor around here. So we will see what happens. Where is the MFR so i can change it ?
If your batt is reading 17v when the car is off you have a huge problem. If your batt is reading 17 volts when the car you have a huge problem. Replace the battery/alt, condensation/water kills alternators.
the mfr could be the issue but a simple way to tell is if when you turn the key to the on position there will be a clear click. if you dont hear that then that for sure is one of your issues also check and make sure you have the right amperage fuses before you test your mfr because if some have been replaced with the wrong amperage then they will burn and your relay wont click check both fuse boxes too the fuses under the hood are likly to burn first
:umno: u can wash ur alternator. its even part of the FITV teg tips article
Where can i buy a new mfr so i know thats not it and all the fuses are the right amperage and are all good.
Now does the mfr control priming and running or just running fuel.?? I was told two different things?
[QUOTE=bmwpride;2029674]Where can i buy a new mfr so i know thats not it and all the fuses are the right amperage and are all good.
Now does the mfr control priming and running or just running fuel.?? I was told two different things?[/QUOTE]
simply put… u need an mfr… always.
just get a known good one from a member. shouldn’t be more than like $15 shipped to u.
ok, where can i find a new one.
Well go dump your alternator in some water for a bit then go try it out and let me know how it works, if it still works just as it did before then I shall happily admit that I stand corrected.
car still doesnt run, now it wont even start just cranks. I have put new wires, cap, rotor, distributor on and i have spark, new fuel filter, new alternator, new tps , clean iacv and facv and im going to try a new map sensor. If this isnt it im not sure what else it could be? Any ides. I have spark and fuel pressure, and i have fuel to the rail but still nothing? Could it be my injectors or somethin? I need my toy to run its sad driving the beater civic:pupeyes: