Man why are you such dicks why can’t someone just ask a question without the admin being a dick and saying ignorant things like search it. Just answer the question and have the person be on his way
Engine flooding?
Last night when i was about to leave work i got in my car started it and put it in reverse. I felt alot of power loss so i put it back in neutral because i thought i didnt have the clutch out far enough. I put it back in reverse and the car started to seize up so i punched the gas while in neutral and the car would not idle higher it kept chuggin. Then all of a sudden it killed on me. Me and another guy tried to start it and he started pumping the gas and it would not start. I smelled some gas and i figure its because the engine is flooded. When i tried starting the car the car would make that sound when your starting it but it would not turn over so i figure i have a bad spark. I also just got my oil pan gasket fixed the day before so i checked the oil and it had a pretty good amount of gas mixed in it. I pulled my plugs and everyone of them had some oil and gas fluids on them. Do you have any idea what would cause a problem such as that, and what i could do to fix it. Also is it really bad to have gas in your oil or does it happen alot or when you flood the engine does it do that. Also the guy that sold me the car has a getto rigged ground on my car, i felt it and one end of the ground was heated up after i tried starting it. Let me know what i can do and should do to fix it, please i really need my car working. What I kinda think it might be is that one of my injectors are stuck open which is flooding the engine and causing all of this but i may be wrong. If you have any idea what it might be and how much it would cost to fix it let me know please I really want to drive it again.
Engine flooding?
Last night when i was about to leave work i got in my car started it and put it in reverse. I felt alot of power loss so i put it back in neutral because i thought i didnt have the clutch out far enough. I put it back in reverse and the car started to seize up so i punched the gas while in neutral and the car would not idle higher it kept chuggin. Then all of a sudden it killed on me. Me and another guy tried to start it and he started pumping the gas and it would not start. I smelled some gas and i figure its because the engine is flooded. When i tried starting the car the car would make that sound when your starting it but it would not turn over so i figure i have a bad spark. I also just got my oil pan gasket fixed the day before so i checked the oil and it had a pretty good amount of gas mixed in it. I pulled my plugs and everyone of them had some oil and gas fluids on them. Do you have any idea what would cause a problem such as that, and what i could do to fix it. Also is it really bad to have gas in your oil or does it happen alot or when you flood the engine does it do that. Also the guy that sold me the car has a getto rigged ground on my car, i felt it and one end of the ground was heated up after i tried starting it. Let me know what i can do and should do to fix it, please i really need my car working. What I kinda think it might be is that one of my injectors are stuck open which is flooding the engine and causing all of this but i may be wrong. If you have any idea what it might be and how much it would cost to fix it let me know please I really want to drive it again.
1992 Integra GS w/leather seatsWon’t crank
Hi guys,
I’m new to this forum, but i have a common problem with my teg…
The problem happens only when the car is parked outside (on cold weather) for the whole night or more than 4 hours…
When i try to start the car (key on START position) i hear the first click, then the fuel pump and another clik, but the starter won’t turn over…but if i let the key in start position for 5 more seconds…it will start like nothing happened…sometimes…it won’t crank even if let the key at the same position for 30 seconds…i wait 2-3 minutes…then restarted again and this time it cranks like nothing happened…WEIRD…
Like i mentioned earlier…it is not happening when the car is still warm…when it is…it starts fine…very fine :)…
SO far, i changed 2 grounds (neg. battery to tranny / valve cover to chassis). But i didn’t see any ground from the tranny to chassis…is it normal ??..
I cleaned the ground point on the starter.
I tested the battery and the charging system and everything was number #1.
I don’t know what to do…it is really annoying.
Main Relay ?
Starter Solenoid ?
Another bad ground somewhere ?
Code 18 (18’’ behind the steering wheel … :giggle: ) ??
I had similar problems, and even after having the battery tested, which tested good, it was the battery after all. Got a new one under warranty and no problems since.
Even if i have test results like these :
Engine not running
Accessories OFF : 12.55 Volts
Accessories ON (all of them) : 11.88 Volts
Engine Running
IDLE Accessories ON : 14.40 Volts
IDLE Accessories OFF : 14.40 Volts
1500-2000 RPM : 14.40-14.70 Volts
I think i put the finger on my problem.
i just realized that i have my battery ground directly connected on the my tranny instead of going to the chassis then to tranny. Since i upgraded my old ground wire to 4aws wire, i didn’t install the old bracket that held my old wire in place to the inner fender.
So i’m gonna buy 2 wires : Battery to chassis , Chassis to Tranny. But, since i dont have the old bracket and bolt now, i will have to buy at least another bolt, but i don’t know what size. Is it a 10 mm or 12 mm ???
hey my car doesnt start either…bLAH!!..sucks…anyways the car start and stay on when u push start it. but trying to turn the ignition on with the key it just act like the alternator is bad…iono…i think the alternater, battery,and start is still good…i dont knoe about the ground though its hook onto the frame of the car but i dont think that’s the probablem. any suggestion??? help me!
I just jumped to the last page so I’m not sure if this has been suggested already, but I’ve had similar problems with my teg a while back. We’ve been through hell and back. First it was my ECU. Then it was my Ignition Control Module (the little thin plastic module inside of the distibutor). I’ve replaced the ECU twice and the ICM twice. I got a code the first time, but not the second. Shortly after that I took on water through my cold air getting submerged (never thought it’d happen). Then it could have been a gaggle of things. But eventually it started after days of work and cleaning. Maybe this will help some. Like I said, I didn’t read all the pages so if this has been already suggested, I apologize for a repeat post. Later y’all… 
okay guys for over 3 years now, my teg finally decide to shit on me…when i try to crank the motor, all i hear is the starter clicking and nothing else. can someone help me out? im pretty sure its my distributor but i could be wrong. so any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks
Definitely not the distributer. If all you hear is a click when you go to start, it is either a weak battery, bad connections, relay, or a bad starter.
Well I was planning on buying another integra from this lady. When I got there, there was a ticking sound and it sounded like a misfire, from the spark plugs or wires. Well we turned off the car and my dad took out the spark plug wires and then put them back in and the car wouldn’t start. My dad said it was the ignition control module, so the lady just replaced it and the car still doesn’t start. Could it be the coil? The car isn’t getting any spark at all, but it does turn.
Hey I had another thread here and finally managed to solve my car not wanting to start when it was hot. The problem turned out to be the main fuel relay after all. Turns out the one I swaped in the first time was in just as bad shape. Now my problem is my other integra (also a '92 RS) has been sitting for a while. It’s my winter car so I was just going out to start it up and let it run for a bit. But now the car won’t start at all. The car cranks but I’m not getting any fuel. I’ve noticed the fuel pump isn’t kicking in. I’ve got another fuel pump to install but it was very expensive so if the problem is simple I’d rather not install it and just get my money back. Also when I turn the ignition on my S3 light flashes. I’ve also had problems with this car when I was driving it last winter. Occasionally after putting gas in it the car wouldn’t start for a minute or two and the S3 light would flash. However it would start if I just give it a couple minutes every time. I did have a few problems of the car starting and the S3 light flashing and the car didn’t have any pickup. Kinda felt like it wouldn’t go below 3rd gear but I could feel it shift higher. I’m just looking for some advice as to where to start looking for solutions. Also before I noticed the fuel pump wasn’t turning on I put in a new fuel filter and new spark plugs. Is it likely the fuel pump has just gone bad from sitting too long? Thanks in advance!
sorry for asking but
I have read many of the threads about not starting and I still have questions. I do not want to sound like a broken record but I STILL NEED HELP so I posted a new thread.
THANK YOUR FOR CREATING AND MAINTAINING THIS WEBSITE. Many novice mechanics like myself need this type of site to keep us on the road.
anybody thought of the TIMING? cracked timing belt, missing teeth can couse it to jump. i had the same promblem where my car just shut off and it wouldn’t start back up. open to valve cover and hah. the timing jumped. replaced the belt and re align the timing and turn key. car started.
and another
This has been a bother since we put my car together .
The car starts up and runs fine …drive and park the car , sometimes it won’t start.
By won’t start I mean that it will crank …but not start.
After sitting for 10 minutes or so it will start right up .
It was doing this in the summer , but it is cold and raining here and it is doing it again .
I guess we will try the MFR , but one thing I have noticed …when the car won’t start , the cooling fan is not running either.
What I mean by this is …if the fan turns on after I shut the car off , it will probably start . no fan , no start …I never hear the fuel pump run in any case …even when the car is starting correctly .
Ms Roachclip, go to the auto parts store and buy a can of starter fluid. The next time the car won’t start, pull the intake off and squirt the starter fluid in, then try to start. If it fires up, then shuts down again, you will know that it is a fuel issue, therefore probably the main fuel relay. If it doesn’t fire up for at least a few seconds, then you probably have a spark issue (coil, ignitor, loose cables).
Go to your battery cables and try to move them on the terminals, if they move, they are too loose, retighten.
My bet is its the MFR. Buy a new one, don’t get a used one that will go bad soon anyway.
No spark?
I did the IGNITER - Input Test and Ignition Coil Test
found on - http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801a8c67.jsp
My results:
1st I took out a sparkplug and touched it to the head while the car was cranked. There was no spark on any fire wire.
IGNITER - Input Test - voltage was present at all check points and there was continuity between the igniter body and §§§§§. Accodrding to the link this means that the IGNITER is done .
IGNITION COIL - Test - Resistance between terminal A and B was 0.8 range is 0.6-0.8. Secondary winding resistance between terminals A and the coil tower was over at 16000 ohms where the range is 9760-14640 ohms.
Does this conclude that my §§§§§ is the cause of my problems
Is the Igniter and ignition coil the same between odb0 to odb1 Distributors?
Did you g et to start your car? My car died on me once cuz of no spark and i changed everything… problem ended up being the wiring INSIDE the §§§§§… Never knew wiring can go bad
fixed: replaced ignition coil.
ignition coil strikes again. this time, on a 95 dc. on first inspection, the coil checked out fine and within specs. then i checked the igniter, and it checked out fine, except i was too lazy to test the tach and ecu wire. so i was like, ok i’ll just change the igniter. 35bucks, still no go. can’t return it if you install it. 35 more bucks for the ignition coil, and voila, it works. this time, i checked my old coil and the secondary coil read at half the resistance it was supposed to be at. wierd since it tested out fine the day before.
taiwan 6 month warranty:
$35 igniter
$25 ignition coil.
dealer:
$220 igniter
$97 ignition coil.