I’ve read this whole thread and links and seen same problems but on manual cars mines is auto and no answers. I’ve been having a problem with my car not starting when it’s hot. First let me take you guys on my journey. I bought the car about 2 years ago. Drove fine for about 3 GOOD months. Starting messing up misfiring and basically going to hell so I thought I shout give it a basic tune up tried to change the spark plugs and THERE WHERE ALL CROSS THREADED IN THE BLOCK. Some one drilled them in there and that’s when everything went down hill. Let it sit for 1½ finally got the money and time to fix it. I put 97 b18b harness was done up from hasport (local but legend shop) converted to odb0 and since then it has been doing me dirty. Hasn’t run good since. So here’s my problem now
It’ll start when it’s cold and run good but whenever I drive it around for awhile, and try to start it back up, it does nothing. I see the lights come on and go out and the fuel pump click and everything. I even hold the key to start and pump my foot on and off the brake to hear the relay click. This last time, I took it to work it sat there for 8plus hours and when trying to go home it didn’t start so I left it there and when I came back in the morning it started up fine. I have replaced everything that can be bolted on the engine including the fuel pump. I also changed the ignition switch all fuse are good, after changing the switch it drove fine for about 2 weeks and then problem came back in full effect. I have tried using a different main relay and get the same problem. Some of my wires are old and bridle but I don’t want to change them and make a bigger problem. I’ve gotten on the local forum and well it’s every body and there mom on there so no real answers to my problem. I have spent well over 3 grand and just want to burn this dam car. PLEASE SOMEBODY HELP ME!
hm so far it still sounds like the main fuel relay since you mention heat. you sure you hear the relay click? you’ve tried others, but did you try a new one? maybe the others were bad as well.
so the starter doesn’t crank at all right? if so then you know it’s a starting problem, not ignition (spark/distributor/fuel). if you go through the starting diagrams, you can see what things need to be checked. you mentioned you have an auto, i would look at neutral safety switch under the gear selector. if you study the diagrams, you can even try hard wiring it, but i would try cleaning it first. look here “Automatic Cold Weather Fix! (neutral safety switch can’t shift out of park key stuck)” http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90637
there’s more info about the wiring of the neutral safety switch i posted somewhere in the huge manual conversion thread here “automatic to manual swap (auto - 5spd conversion writeup)” http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40496
probably don’t need to waste your time in that mess, just look at the wiring in the manual. basically you’ll see which wires get connected when you’re in P, R, N, or D. what you want is to make sure the P wires are connected, then you can move on to the next item to troubleshoot.
so you’re basically going to troubleshoot from the key in the ignition, to the shifter, to the starter. the main fuel relay and ecu are in the middle somewhere. don’t worry, if you put your mind to it, you will find it. it’s all connected so there must be a bad break somewhere down the line.
No the starter doesn’t crank. Only when it’s been sitting for LONG while or so then yes it starts right up. Funny thing also is when I turn it off and maybe wait 5 mins or so it turns back on SOMETIMES. i have tried 3 0r 4 mfr’s and im sure one had to be semi-good. On that diagram it says to replace #4 and #36 could you tell me what those are. I am gonna check the neutral safety switch cuzz some times I have a hard time taking the key out also and would make sense to check those wires to make sure there going to the rights places. every weekend I look and look hoping to find a burnt wire or you know something but everything is the same. Its kinda of funny I don’t have a book since I’ve been having these problems but imma get one. Thanks for all you help brah. I’ll post my progress or problem soon
where are you seeing #4 and #36? i’m looking at page 23-75 in the helms: Starting System > Circuit Diagram (A/T). it shows the battery > under hood relays > ignition switch > starter cut relay > under dash relays > starter solendoid. it’s GOT to be something along those lines.
have you rebuilt the starter brushes? what you can do to make sure it’s not the starter itself, is to run a direct line from the solenoid to the positive on the battery to jump it.
For some reason I can’t quote……
On that link you posted where it talks about the neutral safety switch to replace #4#36. I don’t have a book yet I went to 2 different auto zones today and neither have one.
Ok so check this I reset my ecu and its starting good I even ran it hard as hell today on the way home and I let it sit for about 20 mins the tried it and turned on and I have been trying it for about 2 hours already so far so good. I hope it’s the end of that but not likely. What you think? I have ran a direct line from battery to starter and it did turnover I just didn’t turn it on and short something out(my luck) Have you rebuilt the starter brushes? My starter it completely new not refurbished plus I took it to 3 different places to make sure it wasn’t that at first and passed at all three imma change the wires from the battery to the start and check it to see if any burnt peaces are there. Is there some way you can post that page on the site or send me it? I’m not a mechanic at all so I wouldn’t know how to trace those wires back but imma try and see what happens
update. i was hoping it was just my ecu needing to be reset but of course my luck well done it again.i dont know imma i guess wait til the this weekend and see what i find. i found a good wiring manual online that i fellow. its the complete wiring in the ENTIRE car. i might post it up here if the RULES let me that is
i have a 93 DA with b16a in it…some reason i am gettin alot of fuel on my plugs…could it be that my fuel pressure reg. is stuck??..i ordered a new one today…i also ordered a new distributor… the car will start…but when u give it gas it boggs down and dies…but if u slowly press the gas it will rev up…i have been workin on it for over 2 weeks and still same results…im also throwing code 10 iat sensor code 3 map sensor and code 9 cyp sensor…i changed the iat and map and still gettin same codes after resetting the ecu…im new this this forum and didnt know how to post my own…and seem like this one kinda had to do with my problem…anyone able to help…
New update I replace the neutral safety switch and now I have a problem with the P light not coming on at all. The n.s.s. is brand new from the dealership and it’s still turning on when it wants to it has gotten better but occasionally now and like I mentioned the p light doesn’t turn on at all. All the other lights work fine to. I am able to jump start and that’s basically what I been doing when I’m stuck. Well that mess anything up? My friend and i traced the wires back and to found nothing i dont know if we exact on the wires but colors match so i dont know.
i finnally got the DA fixed did everything i could think of and still no success untill i ordered a new computer and got erics racing to tune it…and now its running fine and no ecu codes or anything…thanks for those who gave me suggestions earlier
Hmm, I wonder if anyone have any idea what’s wrong with mine: my 92 gsr started not wanting to start a few times. Over 2 weeks, it got worse until it wouldn’t start no more. All the lights, clicks, and “whirl” noise that’s suppose to happen is there. Whenever it does starts, it starts right away like a charm. No long cranks before running smoothly. Push starts works. I got a used starter and replaced mine. It went from sometimes starting to starting all the time. Almost like it needed to get use to the other starter before it were tight like homies haha.
Then like a week ago, it started to become bad friends or something and doesn’t want to start sometimes. I went to Las Vegas over the 3day weekend and when I returned, I try to start the car and it wouldn’t start anymore. I tried over 30mins and no go. I couldn’t push start it cuz my place is completely flat. No lil hills or anyone around to help me push start it.
Could it still be the starter? I would like to also mention that I have a bosch distributor. Looks wack and all but could that be the problem too? Thoughts/suggestions/input/feedback?
If the starter cranks the engine over nice and strong, then its not the starter. Check for fuel and fire and all connections for tightness. MFR, Coil, Ignitor.
I’m new,
I have a 90’ Integra GS. And I love it. It has 200kmiles,And drives like a dream. But everybody with starting problemos in the heat, bang under your dash,next to your steering collum.Mostly on the left .That might get your sucker going.
There is a black bocks under there with a red interior, It probably is your fuel ignition relay switch. Mine sucks too! I’ve been told to tap on that S.O.B. and that will work. Good luck. This seems to be a regular problem with older Hondas/Acuras. But what do I know. Replace it if you can.
Ok this how it all started, car was running but had no radio so I found a radio and install a radio in (I didn’t install it a friend did) after that wanted to go to the gas station that when it happen the car didn’t start. It not getting fuel or spark, change main relay even try my friends and didn’t work and he put it back in his and work just fine. So I tested the distrubutor and all componet work fine even the icm. Got new fuel pump still didn’t work so return for refund. Here the last idea I can come up with is the ecu or ecm the computer, replace it and still no fuel or spark even try it in a friends car and his start fine just idle problem. No sound in fuel pump and C.E.L. Just stay on. Motor rotated but just don’t want to run I ran out of idea in need of help here please someone help also radio was taken out after problem happen.
Pull the code for the cell. If the cell stays on, it is usually a main fuel relay or bad ecu, but you checked those. I would check to make sure the timing belt didn’t snap and see if your battery is putting out enough juice.
Main relay was replace and try on friend car to see if it good and it was in working condition also did that with the ECU and timing belt is still in place. Now I’m think of wire harness probably burn out from ecu to main relay and to other componets, I tested out some wire for short but it was still good, I don’t know anymore and I don’t want to spend a lot at honda or other repair shop. This will make it hard 4 us to find some who posting to my subject when other is posting their problem and other replyin to other and my post. It just gonna mix up.
Forgot to said I had a yellow top battery and yes it working fine. C.E.L. STAY on and Jumping the C.E.L. Wire the light still on with no blink unplug ecu and it go away.
[QUOTE=B R;331225]Your point has some validities to it and with all of the hundreds of posts that I have helped people with I have only told a select few to search.
I posted this here because one day when I logged on to help some people out I saw 5 posts asking the same question on the first page. These people obviously didnt do a search, or even look a few threads down for someone with the same problem.
I have no problem with people asking a question that has been asked before, but that was ridiculous considering the fact that the subject had been beaten to death on the first page of this forum.
Later,
BR[/QUOTE]
What about people did the search and try over and over until their head hurts, so they just post a new tread-my car won’t start, they find thread and get answer but not the whole answer. Like me I have a whole big problem with my car, car turn ova but won’t start. No spark but componets still good replace internal of distrubutor still no spark and no fuel, replace fuel pump,MFR,ECU, and did a lot of testin wire for shorts and replacing battery and trying relay and Ecu in friend car and it work just fine but not in mines. See if u can find an answer for that. Now can’t just write anybody up because they did their sreach but didn’t find what they looking for so they post a new thread up to let every one know and easy to spot so a lot more answer come qiucker, the faster they get answer the faster they be on the road instead of being here on g2ic lookin for answer then wakin up 2hr ahead to catch a bus to work because the only car he or she had won’t start.
So I’ve searched these forums high and low and it doesn’t appear that anyone has encoubtered the same situation as I.
So as I am driving the car suddenly sputters and stalls, and I can’t seem to rstart the car. I checked the fuel pump, and it’s fine, and the car turns over, it just seems like it isn’t igetting any spark. So I thought I’d check to see if there are any ECU codes (the check engine light turns off 2 seconds after I turn the key, but I thought I’d check anyways) and when I jump the ECU (I’ve got a '93) the CEL remains solid (but disappears when I remove the jump). I’m thinkng it could be the distributor as the car died while driving. I replaced the spark plugs, distributor cap, and rotor about a month ago, so I know that’s likely not it.
So I have two questions… does the solid CEL mean i have a code 0? If so (indicating a bad ECU code) could my ECU be preventing me from starting?