OK well I ended up finding a store online that sold them. I already ordered it so I guess I’ll find out whether it works or not when it gets here. I’ll be sure to post. Later…
-Nick
OK after replaceing the Nuetrual Safety Switch, Ignition Switch and Main Relay Assembly the car still doesn’t work. I’m going to replace the starter next which would be the next logical decision. Once again I’lll post if this was in fact the problem.
[QUOTE=90tEgLs;1754389]i also have a “car wont start” prob too but but i cant find anything that matches.
heres a list
1.car blew headgasket
2.replaced head,headgasket,exhaust and intake gaskets(head was resurfaced,checked for cracks,cleaned and 2 valves replaced)
3.replaced plugs,wires,cap and rotor
4.replaced injector seals(the bottem one and top 2)
5.checked timing(cam gear arrows line up with cam rod holes that when at tdc line up with cam bracket hole)
6.have spark on all four plugs
7.checked if plugs were in right spots(read the manual for that info)
8.checked if i had fuel(i do)
and it just turns over and over and over kinda slower than normal even with a battery charger on jump start mode.
if anyone neds more info just ask u can also email me at lbizkit69us(at)aim(dot)com. thanks --=KRis[/QUOTE]
if you have a multimeter check this. This is from ISIS the official acura tech help
On models with distributor equipped ignition systems,
the ignition coil and the ICM (ignition control module
[igniter]) by doing this procedure:
NOTE: Wire colors for wires referenced here can
vary between models, so use the appropriate ETM to
ID them.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the
MIL (malfunction indicator lamp).
• If the MIL doesn’t come on or stays on, refer to
MIL Basics on this page.
• If the MIL comes on for two seconds and then
goes off, continue with step 2.
Check for battery voltage at the positive wire
going to the coil and at the positive wire going to
the ICM.
• If you have battery voltage, continue with step
3.
• If you don’t have battery voltage, check for an
open between the ignition switch, the ICM, and
the coil.
With a voltmeter connected between the coil
negative wire and ground, record the cranking
voltage.
Disconnect the negative wire between the coil and
the ICM. Then, connect the voltmeter between the
coil negative wire and ground, and record the
cranking voltage. (This is the same test as step 3,
except the wire to the ICM is
disconnected.)
a If you get about 8V for step 3, and 10V for step 4,
install a new coil, and retest.
If you get about 10V for steps 3 and 4, install a
new ICM, and retest.
main relay???
Question, is the MFR the same for both Automatics and Stick shifts?
Hey, heres a no start one, and i’ve never really had starting problems with this car…
well, today i was driving and the idle just DROPPEd right zero, the car was still on somehow, and the idle jumped back up, when the idle dropped the car jerked. it didnt do it for a while, then it did again, the idle would fall right to zero but somehow the car wud still be on, and then jerk, and then jump back up, sometimes the rpm guage would just go crazy and fly all over the place…well i got it home, and turned it off…
I tried starting it again, and it kinda of sputtered and tried 2 stay on a bit, and shut off…
So i went to my hood, tried 2 start it while gassing it, it wud KIND of run, if i held the key and gas at the same time it wud run, but as soon as i let go of either the key or the gas it would shut off, so while doing this, key + gas thing, i hurd a sputter and an underscribable noise, and suddenly dark smoke started coming out of my intake,
i smelt it and the smelled BURNED my nose, it really hurt to smell it…
now it turns over, but that its, it duznt fire up. i got new sparks today too. (Affter it would turn over but not fire up)
cranks but wont turn over
its a 91 automatic, new aftermarket dist, new plugs. So basically my friend just bought the car and the symptom was it cranks but wont turnover. he s3 light is blinking also.
opened the valve cover to see that oil in the engine has turned to sludge, and theres no coolant in the rad whatsoever. So is it a possibility that the motor is shot because it overheated? thanks in advance.
i’ve got the exact same problem,But i’m not getting spark nor fuel.S3 light flashing.There’s coolant in the rad(new).Cranks but won’t start.Fuses are fine but i need someone to help me troubleshoot the main fuel relay.My mechanic says that the fuel pump is not getting power and he says i need to find out where the wires from the main fuel relay come from because i’m not sure which wires are supposed to be hot during the on position,can someone help me?(talking abou the wires that go into the MFR.)
another no go-er
ok i checked this forum and i didnt find nothin to my case…so well heres the deal…i picked up a 92 teg sedan and it doesnt run. but it cranks over… it doesnt get power to the injectors nor does it get spark. the guy snapped the timing belt got a new one on and drove it to his house. shut the car off and when he went to start it again it wouldnt kick. said it has brand new §§§§§ but has no spark. did a noid test on the injectors and there is no power to them. has anyone ever encountered this problem?
car is a POS and wont start
alright so i used my 92 integra as a daily… and one morning it just didnt wanna start… its cranking good just not turning over… i’ve searched and went through all the pages of car wont start thread and none really apply to my car… so i checked all my grounds all good…test my §§§§§ and is good, checked all the fuses are all good… i checked to see if i was getting power to my fuel pump and i am getting power to the green wire… now i dont know where to go from there… i’m starting to think i have a bad ecu…anybody have some GOOD input because this car is sitting and driving me crazy because i need to sell it … PLEASE HELP ME INSTEAD OF FLAME ME
I had the same problem with the car not starting in warm weather and the CEL on and S3 light blinking. Just changed the MFR today, $79.00 + tax. Will see if this will fix the problem. I’ve had to deal with this problem for the last 3 summers and it was starting to act up again as the weather got warmer, so I should see immediate results. Will update.
i broke my timing belt and replaced it and waterpump. i put new mfr in it. all fuses are good. but still no spark. im gona get an ignitor,coil,plugs and wires and see what itll do.
I fund my problem was a bad ground on the thermostat housing. I tested this by using jumper cables(you just need any ground wire) i put one end on the chassis and one end on teh copper area of the ground wire and she fired right up!!!
So if your S3 light blinks and your CEL doesn’t come on when you turn the key and your car won’t start (only cranks) and your fuel pump doesn’t come on and you got no spark…try testing that ground wire!!!
Broke Ignition Coil during Distributer Cap replacement
I’m hoping this experience will help someone else.
Failed my Drive Clean test - high NOx.
Decided to change the oil, put in new plugs, cap, rotor for a start.
When I went to change the rotor, couldn’t access the cam screw so decided to turn ignition key for a few moments to allow the screw to appear in the access hole. WRONG THING TO DO!!! After reading further, they say to turn the motor manually so that the screw will line up.
I put everthing back together and it would crank, but not start.
wtf? Some tuneup. Checked all the fuses.
I put an old spark plug on one of the cables, touched it to ground, cranked the car - no spark. This narrows down the troubleshooting to ignition - not fuel related.
What happens is the high ignition coil voltage doesn’t have a dist. cap so the electricity finds the shortest route to ground - which burns a permanent passage through the coil (you can see a slight burn mark on the side of the coil.)
I tested the resistance of the coil as per the troubleshooting docs, but it measures as a good coil.
Anyway I replaced the coil (about $85CAD) and now it starts fine.
Hope I pass this &^%$ drive clean test soon 
Graham
thx for the post, gl with drive clean.
Bring an extra gas cap incase the tech claims you need a new one…
No power and burned speedo, ignition switch problem.
First of all, my humble thanks to everyone who posted about having power problems. After doing 101 searches for related posts I was able to narrow the problems down to a grungy ignition switch and a weak engine ground. It didn’t help matters to find a dealer-installed alarm next to an aftermarket alarm, but the many posts pointed the way to a solution and the Teg now works just fine. I think the weak engine ground led to a short through the speedo cable where it melted the needle right off the stem ( I could only stare with my mouth open for 5 minutes as I’d never seen that before!). Any possible other causes or areas to check?
I cleaned out the ignition switch, checked the main relay, and installed a clean connection for the engine ground ( valve cover to frame ) , and then everything powered up like it’s supposed to. Big smile!
Again, many thanks for all the help on this website…'teggers rock!
FYI … my 'teg is a 1991 GS, man I love this car!
same problem everyones having!
:bang: ive done some research on here as well as everywhere else i can think of. and everyone says the same thing, “its the main fuel relay!” My 93 integra wont start. i was told the fuel pump went out on it so i got it replaced and it still wouldnt start. then after all my research was done i was sure it was the mfr, so i went out and bought one and replaced it in my car. still the same problem, it wont start. i have exhausted all places i can think of for help fixing this problem and i still have no solution. a friend told me about this site and im hoping i can find answers here. hopefully someone can help. i dont know what else to look for or do to resolve my situation. help please!
g
fyi my car is a 93 teg with a b16a jdm swap as well as 5 spd tranny swap. hope this helps!
So here’s what going on…
Alright I’ve looked in this thread and I can’t find what I need help with, I recently had a friend do and engine swap in my 1990 DA, swapped a b18a1 with a fully rebuilt b18a1, He suggested I do a wire tuck(clean the engine bay of wires) so while he did that we relocated my battery to my truck and put my engine bay fusebox under my glove box…now I have lost power to the 8 plug on my distributor(checked the plug with a volt meter and im gettin milivolts and I need 12 volts to it) and it’s causing me not to get any spark. does anyone know how I can get power back to my distributor?:sipread:
ive done some research on here as well as everywhere else i can think of. and everyone says the same thing, “its the main fuel relay!” My 93 integra wont start. i was told the fuel pump went out on it so i got it replaced and it still wouldnt start. then after all my research was done i was sure it was the mfr, so i went out and bought one and replaced it in my car. still the same problem, it wont start. i have exhausted all places i can think of for help fixing this problem and i still have no solution. a friend told me about this site and im hoping i can find answers here. hopefully someone can help. i dont know what else to look for or do to resolve my situation. help please!
g
fyi my car is a 93 teg with a b16a jdm swap as well as 5 spd tranny swap. hope this help
s!
I don’t know if this will help but I had the same problem with my B18. I replaced just about everything you can think of. I replaced fuel pump, fuses, MFR, and even distributor to include ignior and coil. After all that still no start. It rarely happens but I would try and find a known good ECU and swap it out. That was the problem with mine. I talked with a honda tech and he says they rarely go out. I guess I was the one in a million. I hope you have luck with it.
Help ASAP
OKay So I’ve searched…
I replaced my old spark plugs with new NGK iriduim spark plugs. And now it doesn’t start. It’s a B18A with new spark plug wires and new distributor. Also replaced the starter cause it died on me a couple of days ago. Help me out guys.