Carlitos' SoCo build thread

you better not come down here and not come say Hi to me Carl:bored:

:rofl:

[QUOTE=unified112;2213858]Hahaha totally understandable and completely respectable. Good to see people with responsibilities get stuff taken care of and prioritize things.

I’ve been needing to save for a tune on my ride, yet as you said, there is always something else more important in ā€˜real life’ that could use the money more than the car. sigh Sad as that may be.[/QUOTE]

Thanks! We will see though, I am already listing the DB8 for sale. I think I can manage having one family car and one nice car. We’ll see. If I do part with the DB8, Neptune is in this cars future!

[QUOTE=BLKACK1;2213996]you better not come down here and not come say Hi to me Carl:bored:

:rofl:[/QUOTE]

Fo shizzle!

UPDATE! I picked up the motor, header and ECU.

The motor has NOT been boosted or sprayed, even if someone with no knowledge on the subject feels otherwise. She has 6000 miles, was rebuilt and clayed when assembled. The original owner strongly stressed that I should get a PCV system installed, then a tune. I do plan on installing a nice valve cover system, and running a stock p72.

Holy drama!

Awesome to hear that you picked the new stuff up! You said its a Hytech rep. header right? Big tube I’m assuming?

Stop holding out and post pics sucka! :stuck_out_tongue:

[QUOTE=unified112;2214731]Holy drama!

Awesome to hear that you picked the new stuff up! You said its a Hytech rep. header right? Big tube I’m assuming?

Stop holding out and post pics sucka! :P[/QUOTE]

I am so very sorry about the drama and am abashed I had a part in it. This guy has got some issues with me, next time I would hope he can at least grab his balls and stop acting lie a passive aggressive woman and goes about it telling lies about something he obviously doesn’t have knowledge about.

I don’t know the big tube or little tube difference lol. It was hanging on a wall, and I asked if he would throw the header in and the ecu for another 200. xD

I will get pics of the block when I get a chance, and the Ack of Black will have to provide pics of the header, its at his place so he can use it for a little bit. :slight_smile:

glad you calmed down a little bit man :slight_smile: just emailed you those pics:up:

Werd, thanks Glynn. Sorry I got so pissed lol. I edited the thread, lets keep this a build thread shall we?

Speaking of, I do have some updates. I went to take pics of the motor after the children went to bed and decided to put some work in. Dare I say the suspension is pretty much done, besides loading the suspension and torquing it. I’ll probably have to take it apart for something though.

I actually got in and made sure the lock thingies on the inner tie rods were smashed over. I got my ES bolt in, and got the front sway bar properly bolted in.



The pile of parts is shrinking steadily! What was used tonight! I think a couple from on top of the car snuck in there also :stuck_out_tongue:

I found these neat little grommets in the Help! section of autozone. Fits really good! I am going to hondabond them in really well.


The header is a tri-y rep off of Honda Tech. I don’t know if it is big or little tube, but I would assume little because it looks little? At least compared to BlackAcks 3" exhaust piping! lol the price was good whatever! Came in a package deal with the B20, has a 2 1/2" collector.




And lastly the motor. Has a fresh 6000 miles on the build. USDM B20Z stock bottom with a GSR head. The head is warmed over a little, and has JDM ITR cams and a oldskool skunk2 intake mani (basically a itr copy for gsr heads). Fully ready to run, has OEM everything, timing belt and fuel injectors (OEM GSR). Basically ready to drop and go. I am stoked to get this in and running!



And can I use this crank pulley? Or have it machined with no adverse affects? It is the stock pulley to this motor.

Goals I want to get accomplished this week:

Get the the brake lines squared away (in the bay at least).
Run the wiring for all the gauges.
Install the battery, run all the cables to the trunk.
Get all the interior switches plugged in.
Install and tuck the wiper motor, fans, everything not bolted to the motor in the bay.
Get everything in the bay loomed (I will start on the engine harness next week. P61 harness and ignition system, p72 ecu, and a…VAFC Neo. :frowning: )
Verify all the wiring is in order and gets power.

Ummmmmmm, that’s my list. It shall be done!

Kick-ass sir!

Everything looks to be on the up and up here, as always…

The header looks great. AFIK the ā€˜small tube’ is, as the name implies, made of smaller tubing. Which isn’t a bad thing, as the small tube version is still good for up to 230whp’ish or so. As mentioned the piping does look small next to that 3" stuff lol, but it does look very similar in size to my brothers big-tube hytech rep. He has loved it and his motor made awesome power with it.

I can’t say that I’m in love with the T fitting on the back of the block for the oil feed… I’ve read horror stories about how ā€˜brittle’ they are and the possibility of them breaking under load and/or assembly. If its lasted 6k miles I’m sure its more than fine… But id be more comfortable seeing a sammich plate for the oil feed and the back fitting be used for an oil pressure gauge… but, that’s just me being picky.

As far as the pully, it was my understanding that it can be shaved down with no ill after-effects. Naturally there are differences between the DA and post-'94 crank pullies… but the part that is different will apparently be shaved off lol. Are you in need of another pulley?

Looks great man, its coming together quite nicely… and thanks for giving in fairly easily to my demand for pictures :stuck_out_tongue:

very nice carl. you weren’t kidding when you said you put some work in :rockon:

good find on the grommet for the wire tuck. BRILLIANT!!:up:

As far as the pulley, goes from the information ive gathered. most people just shave it down and dont worry to much about the ballance of it. im sure that should be fine for your poupose. that reminds me. I was gonna talk to agazzi about making a jig to do that on his ban saw.

Go Carl!!! Glad to see some work is getting done! :]

[QUOTE=unified112;2214861]Kick-ass sir!

Everything looks to be on the up and up here, as always…

The header looks great. AFIK the ā€˜small tube’ is, as the name implies, made of smaller tubing. Which isn’t a bad thing, as the small tube version is still good for up to 230whp’ish or so. As mentioned the piping does look small next to that 3" stuff lol, but it does look very similar in size to my brothers big-tube hytech rep. He has loved it and his motor made awesome power with it.

I can’t say that I’m in love with the T fitting on the back of the block for the oil feed… I’ve read horror stories about how ā€˜brittle’ they are and the possibility of them breaking under load and/or assembly. If its lasted 6k miles I’m sure its more than fine… But id be more comfortable seeing a sammich plate for the oil feed and the back fitting be used for an oil pressure gauge… but, that’s just me being picky.

As far as the pully, it was my understanding that it can be shaved down with no ill after-effects. Naturally there are differences between the DA and post-'94 crank pullies… but the part that is different will apparently be shaved off lol. Are you in need of another pulley?

Looks great man, its coming together quite nicely… and thanks for giving in fairly easily to my demand for pictures :P[/QUOTE]

Haha thanks man! Also, when I went to take pics I thought of you. xD

That would be cool if it were the big tube version, but hey waaay better than my 4-2-1 DC 2 piece. Regarding the oil feed (or whatever it is called), I may look into upgrading it. At the same time, I have a ricer 4 port oil donut for my gauges. We’ll see what i do, I haven’t gave it much thought at this time.

Thanks for letting me know on the pulley! I just don’t like the N1 pulley that’s on it, unless you think it’s good. I dunno.

[QUOTE=BLKACK1;2214904]very nice carl. you weren’t kidding when you said you put some work in :rockon:

good find on the grommet for the wire tuck. BRILLIANT!!:up:

As far as the pulley, goes from the information ive gathered. most people just shave it down and dont worry to much about the ballance of it. im sure that should be fine for your poupose. that reminds me. I was gonna talk to agazzi about making a jig to do that on his ban saw.[/QUOTE]

Haha I thought you would like the grommets! And look, I can actually do work by myself! Yes!

I was thinking bandsaw as well. Just has a portable, we can cut most of it and then grind it with a dremel. Unless this has to be precisely balanced by a machinist.

Thank you ma’am! WHen are you going to come wrench on this? :stuck_out_tongue:

Carl! It was nice seeing you, dude. Cool to check out your latest purchase too. That thing should move nicely. Im jealous of your wire tuck. Get that thing on the road!

do u have the part number of those rubber fittings u baught i def wana grab some of those for my tuck

To be honest! I would try to keep that cut as strait as possible as too minimize any grinding. thats why I wanted to talk to agazzi about making that jig. just one clean strait cut… that way you chance of it becoming off balance are a lot less likely.

shes usually in more of the Supervisor/whip cracker type:whip: :slight_smile:

Any particular reason why you don’t want to run the N1 pulley? I mean, its balanced and wouldn’t require any modification to work… am I missing something? Hehe

I guess if its a huge worry, you can make your jig, get it cut and as close as you can, and have a machine shop do the final balancing of it. Would be worth having it checked out imo.

Or… Trade me for my oem (non-chipped :P) pulley? Har har. Not that I’m assuming you don’t have one on hand, but I did check and indeed have a 94+ crank pulley if its needed.

Ideally, getting it machined in the best option and if your going to take it to have it ballanced by one. you might as well let them take it down in the first place.

I just talked to Agazzi and hes not really felling the ideal of cutting it down. N1 pulleys are just kind of expensive but if it cost the same to have it machined and balanced then the might be a viable option.

Dude it is always a pleasure seeing you and your brother! Thanks for the compliments! The wire tuck looks greener on the other side though, we’ll see how it holds when power is applied!

I will try to get the part when I go to Autozone. Otherwise, I found it there in the Help! section.

Roger that. Damn, I guess that works! Makes perfect sense though.

Well she should come down and do whatever it is she does! xD

[QUOTE=unified112;2215061]Any particular reason why you don’t want to run the N1 pulley? I mean, its balanced and wouldn’t require any modification to work… am I missing something? Hehe

I guess if its a huge worry, you can make your jig, get it cut and as close as you can, and have a machine shop do the final balancing of it. Would be worth having it checked out imo.

Or… Trade me for my oem (non-chipped :P) pulley? Har har. Not that I’m assuming you don’t have one on hand, but I did check and indeed have a 94+ crank pulley if its needed.[/QUOTE]

Haha not a bad offer! I just heard bad things about the N1 pulley on HT and other places, like it throws off the balance and destroys the internals due to bad harmonic management. Am I just nitpicking here? I wasn’t looking forward to changing it, as the motor is ready to drop and fire up. It’s already in time, fuel is good, etc. Just plug it in, as opposed to take the belt off, take the pulley off, put new one on, re-time and then go. xD I will probably just run the N1 then. because its in and ready to go.

Strange… Forgive my ignorance but I haven’t ever really read up on the N1 pulley. I just assumed it would be completely balanced as its an oem product. But now that you mention it I do recall reading about oem crank pullies having rubber/dampening material inside them… if the N1 doesn’t, maybe that’s why people prefer the traditional ones? Like I said forgive my ignorance lol.

But, you don’t need to re-time to swap the crank pulley. The timing belt will stay intact without the pulley installed.