Need some clearance for my exhaust…
Is removing the portion outlined in pink too much drastic? I’d need about this clearance to fit the DP. Of course, it would be rewelded to close the box with 1/8 steel plate. Maybe even reinforced on top an underneath.
Need your opinion guys!
Thanks!
BTW, aftermarket traction bars are not really on the list… Too expensive and I need ground clearance.
Look at the picture yourself, its worth a thousand words:giggle:
I know, I know… Just trying not to buy a traction bar… I know it’s a lot, but if it’s replated, would it really cause a problem? Aftermarket traction bars are way smaller than what would be left…
it is ok around the middle but by the radius arm is way to deep if u could get away with about 1.5" less then u would be ok. traction bars are smaller but they are designed to be smaller they are round with no weak points if u put a notch in a round bar it not has a weak point. what header are u running that you need that big of a cut out? i have 4/1 headers that are 1pc and my cut out isnt near that big.
Personally I think it would be fine, as long as you re-welded it as you say. I heated mine up with a torch (using map gas) and hammered it a little at a time and reshaped it. I bent it probably just as far as you show pictured there.
Tell me its not for the same SSUTOjunk piece that I made the mistake of buying!
Don’t worry, it’s not SSauto junk! It’s a complete custom kit. But since the guy did not had my car when he made it, he could not know about the crossmember and built it like for G3 teg which have no crossmember like ours.
I will probably end up notching the crossmember and doing a lil modification to the DP to fit it better. I have a friend who is a welder so it’s not gonna be that hard to further customise the DP.
Da1spaz247: That’s the block heater. We need this in cold weather! It’s not useful anymore since the car only sees summer, but it once was! :hyper:
Keep the opinions coming guys!
I would just sell your DP and get another one made. they’re not hard to make, all it is pretty much is a U bend.
Yeah, I looked at it yesterday an what i’ll do is modify the DP so the angle is more pronounced so i’ll need a smaller notch on the crossmember. Still more job than what I first expected, but hey, it’s gonna be worth it! :burnout:
Well, with the modification I made to the DP, I was able to keep the cutting to a minimum. Good thing I modified it cause i would really have had to completely remove the pink portion in the first pic… Now I only need to reweld some plates there and i’ll be set and I will be able to continue fabbing all the piping and get the beast out soon.
I’ve got a stock crossmember for now and fit a 2.5" downpipe no problems
Compressor is on the passenger side, so this means that the DP goes on the driver side. If the DP would be on the pass. side, i’d have no problems getting the DP down without notching. I guess your hot side is on pass. side right? If not, I want pics!!!
If you want to keep a stock radiator and you dont have a log style. i believe you have to have the hot side facing the drivers side. heres what happened with my mini ram after i turned it around. I had to get a half radiator. But there is a guy on ebay selling stock civic ones for $50 shipped UPS. ITs working awesome.
I don’t have a log style and I will keep my full rad. I’ll maybe post pics of the setup when it’s done. I need to finish the DP to have it join the mid-pipe, do the charge piping, swap the ECU and distributor and get everything back together for a road test.
That notch looks a bit excessive to me. :worry:
You’re instinct to box it is correct. You definitely need to do so, at the very least! I’d also suggest rounding the corners of the cut. Whatever you do, it’s very important to use good welding practices. Grind to clean bare metal, bevel your edges, and make absolutely sure you’ve got good penetration.
It’s a sturdy piece, but you’re removing an awful lot of material there. I’d be reluctant to take that much out.
Don’t worry, i’m not the one who’s gonna weld it! 
One of my friend is a pro welder so i’ll have him do it. I’m plating it with 1/8 steel plate. Should be enough!
All righty. I’d still suggest rounding the corners on that cut though. Sharp corners provide a place for cracks to start.
i’ve got 2.5 inch dp with stock crossmember without any cutting or trimming at all…let me know if you want some pics
chris23492- you might as well post them up, lol. I am looking for Ideas too, since I will be turning to the dark side soon, and making a 2.5" downpipe. thanks in advance!
