thanks spike, I"m already very aware of that factor. My toe was okay, however my camber was bad. It took 20K KM to wear out a new set of tires from the inside due to negative camber and not toe. Now I have 16" and the tires are much more expensive so I’m looking to set my camber straight!!!
after I get the correct camber, i’ll ask them to adjust the toe and charge me since the charge go up to about 40 bucks if they do actual work.
Thanks for the advise anyhow and you are correct in regards to rear camber adjustment.
Any specifics on what type of material for the rear washer? I was just thinking if I get a soft material, the washer might squish when I tighten the bolts…
I work at a true value, try also grade 8 washers, we have many. be careful tho, for some reason i stripped out a bolt hole in the rear control arm, i have no clue how, im a really cautious guy on things like that, i need to get off my ass and get a metric tap and make a size up hole… but its been that way for liek 1 year, lata
wade
Teg tips doesnt mention the size of the bolt that needs to be replaced when fixing the rear camber. Does anyone know? Also what length it desirable? I plan on having 6-8 washers on each wheel.
i just redid it again before i went to go get my alignment. i think its safe to say that you can use upto 8mm of washers with teh stock bolts. 10mm or more and you need to get a longer bolt, 10x1.25, 40mm long will do fine. i found that 8mm for the drivers side was perfect, and the right needs 10-12, since honda accounts for the driver in the car. this is on eibach sportlines, 1.8" front, 1.5" rear.
also, i have the ingalls extreme and i just installed them all the way to 3degrees and at the shop it came out almost perfect too.
This crap sucks I put three washers on each bolt and i cant tell the difference. The rear wheels still look all boned out. It looks like I’ll need about 8+ washers on each bolt just to make a difference at all and Im only lowered 1.8". Im sure im doing it right. I used 3/8 washers. I think a real camber kit would work so much better. Too bad I have no funds. O well. I guess -1 degree isnt that bad.
Also, I snapped one of the stupid welded nuts off in the process. This has the be the first stupid idea ive ever seen in honda engineering. There is no access to this area where the nut is and its barely welded on at all. Man I wish I could weld. I would stick those suckers down so well. Anyway I had to cut with a dremel thru a bunch of metal to get to the 19mm nut. What a pain in the ass. MORAL: BE MORE CAREFULL NEXT TIME AND ONLY USE AIR TOOLS IF YOU CAN SEE THE NUT ON THE OTHER SIDE!!!
On the contrary, I managed to correct my rear camber yesterday with longer bolts and 4 washers on each bolt. Before the adjustment, the camber was at -3 degrees now it is less than -1.
My car doesn’t have these nuts that everyone keeps breaking off, the threaded part is actually the frame itself. Is this something that differs between 90-91 and 92-93??
Originally posted by LeftCorner My car doesn’t have these nuts that everyone keeps breaking off, the threaded part is actually the frame itself. Is this something that differs between 90-91 and 92-93??
Jason, what do you mean? Are you talking about the upper arm “camber” bolts or something else - because mine are bolts threaded into the frame.
erniecars: Make certain that you put the washers on the correct side of the arm. They should be in between the arm and the car, not between the bolts and the arm - which is sometimes a common mistake for a few inexperienced do-it-yourselfers.
Using 8 washers per bolt is extremely unusual, even for a drop approaching 3 inches. I am using 4 washers per bolt (16 total) with an approximate 2¼"-2½" drop, and my measured camber is -.02º.
my camber was off like maybe 2 degrees. So i got longer bolts and i would 3 3/8 washers on each bolt. There is little to no correction. Its not that bad to start with but i say screw it.
