My engine check light comes on when I drive long distances on the Freeway(I believe it is ECU code 3 MAP sensor because of the boost). I have two questions will a missing link fix this problem(I did search on this topic but no luck on a setup like mine using it), and if I drive with my engine check light on will it do damage to the engine or turbo.
injectors, ecu, wiring harness are all stock
Under The Hood-
B18A1
Ported and Polished Head
T3/T4 Turbonetics Turbo
Drop Tube
Front Mount Intercooler
Drag Manifold
TurboXS Type H-RFL Blow off Value
Tail Waste gate
AEM Cam Gears
MSD Spark Plugs
estimated Hp is 170-200whp 6-8Lbs of boost
I took it to a shop and they said that I need a chipped ECU obd1, bigger injectors, and an obd1 wiring harness in order to fix the engine check light from coming on. Have any of you guys been able to use a turbo with stock injectors, ecu, and wiring harness
If you are using an FMU yes you will need a missing link or some way of bleeding off the boost so the map sensor doesnt see it.
Yes, if you drive continuosly with the MAP sensor code on, your ECU will run you very rich and that could be potentially dangerous if not costly with gas prices these days.
Chipping your OBD0 computer and getting larger injectors is probably your best bet…let me know if I can help you out with that.
What that shop recommended as far as converting to OBD1 isnt a bad idea, but overkill in your situation if you are willing to do a little background research on TurboEdit and how it can help you out.
I just bought the car a month ago so I am still learning about Turbo cars plus it only happens on long freeway drives, when I beat on it for about 10-20 minutes, or doing 3-4 top speed runs in a row.
I don’t believe I have a FMU at least I haven’t seen it where do you think it would be located?
I am almost 90% sure the car is just using advanced timing to add the fuel
I looked at TurboEdit and your web site it seems interesting how it will all work but is it an easy install. Do you have a chipped obd0 that I can buy?
This is my daily driver so I really don’t need any more power but I want more reliablity. Right now I still get an average of 20 mpg I know I can get more because most of it is just dumping out my exhaust.
lol…the least i can say is that ur motor is probably fucked. First of all top speed runs will blow ur motor, NEVER do them, ever. Never boost in 5th gear. Also u will need a real tuning unless u want a hole in ur block. If i were u i wouldnt even drive ur car right now.
Why never boost in 5th gear or do top speed runs? I agree that the car shouldn’t be driven right now until it’s tuned but I don’t know why you’re telling people to never boost in 5th gear. Please explain.
yea please explain that shit…i didn’t spend a few grand on this turbo shit just to run first - fourth…if that was the case i could have used the money on a srt
My motor is not fuck because i had it compression/leak down test to make sure the motor wasn’t fuck it tested 150:1 for all cylinders which 180:1 is perfect so I thought it was good for that old of an engine(167,000 miles). Top speed runs will not blow the motor that is a False statement, it will just put more wear on the engine. Without the Tune I did one top speed run cruising between 100-130mph for about 20 minutes and the tach was at 6k for 20 minutes straight my motor didn’t blow it is all in the tuning and how you drive it. I had a N/A Accord before the Turbo G2 and the best part of the G2 is boosting in 5th gear because it just keeps pulling and N/A tops out really quick.
just cuz your comp came out ok doesn’t mean your engine is ok…case in point my car would do the check engine light also during highway runs…i got my shit tuned my chris (xenocron) and he seen the map code in the ecu so he bypassed it…also my comp was 160 arcoss all four…fast foraward to a week later… i’m beating up on this six gen accord and after i’m done the engine starts to make a VERY LOUD KNOCKING SOUND… so i high tail home…i made it a mile from home the engine crapped…i felt something give and drop and the engine stopped…org engine dead @ 159,xxx…
i say all of that to say cover your bases now unless u have the money to drop another ls in there when that blows…i was only boosting 7.2…(thats the wastegate)
From what I’ve “read”, fifth gear pulls put A LOT of load on the motor. That’s normally not good for the motor. Plus, you would be in boost for a long ass time if you’re doing a top speed run in fifth gear. BTW, I can’t prove any of this. That’s just what I’ve read.
Yes you are right, pulls in 5th do put more strain on the motor because it’s in boost for a longer time, but I would never go as far as saying that you should never boost in 5th.
My friend does track racing and drag at Pacific Raceways (SIR) and he is in boost around the track all the time for like twenty minutes his is a 240sx and he didn’t blow his but like I said before it is all in how you tune your car. My car is port and polished head to handle the boost pressure plus it is a small t3/t4 turbo and my car is only at 8lbs of boost NOS is way worst to do to an engine at least my turbo is the thing taking some of the strain instead of NOS were it is direct engine wear.
im suprised your motor hasnt blown up yet!
you really gotta listen to these guys you cant be driving the car running stock injectors and fuel pump with no means of better fueling/boost retard…
and especially a 5th gear pull thats not a goodthing… that wont guarentee blow ur motor but it gives a lot more room to detonate and cause problems untuned :bawl:
get a chip from xenocron soo u can run larger injectors, go get some cheapo DSM 450’s and once u have the chip the vehcle will run smoother and ALOT safer
If you are worried about blowing your engine on top speed runs or long haul 5th gear pulls, then A: your not confident in your tune, or B: You’re not confident in your tuner, or C: You don’t know what you are talknig about.
It is true it puts alot of load on the engine and alot of heat, but one of the reasons why people’s engines blows is because of the tune. The longer the gear, the more your tune will show flaws. If a tune is half decent, you can generally get away with the first 3 gears without much notice since it goes by so fast so it doesn’t stay in a certain RPM band for very long… 4th and 5th gear will show it’s true colours of how good/bad the tune is because if there is one minor lean spot that was no biggy in the first few geas, well in 5th gear, now you’re sitting at that lean spot for alot longer.
lol,
You could have atleast went to the junkyard and pulled some DSM450cc
from a bishi, I mean, I’m not going turbo until end of summer, If I am even going to go turbo. and I already have 450cc injectors,
Get injectors, get software, uberdata, etc… and get it tuned correctly.
I found it funny that you came on here asking simple questions and then teling us you using stock injectors and then yo go talking like you know exactly what your talking about.
I bet your friends your talking about have everything they need, injectors, software, tuning etc…
GoodLuck.
Edit: your head is ported and polished to handle the boost. 8lbs.
:lol:
[SIZE=3]Edit, Dont even try comparing our Integras and your friends 240sx,
There diffrent cars, motors everything. [/SIZE]
That is true without a tune I will be putting more wear on the engine but it takes a lot to blow an engine, my N/A accord was reved the shit out of it and I didn’t blow that engine usually you hear noise when something is starting to going wrong with the engine such as valves hitting, squealling, and so on but with my accord on a all stock motor i reved between 6k-8k at 8k it made the coolest sound it sounded like a tuned V-tec but I released the pedal and I heard a bad knock noise but everything was ok I checked the valves and everything then I took it down a notch to 6.5-7k and it does that all day long.
So xenocron really works?
setting up the system that he suggest seems difficult(like a 8-12hr job)?
I live in WA so I don’t thing he will drive out to me?
for Tchleung or D. my tune is ok but if I push the car to its limit the tune would help the reliablity like you said 5th gear having a lean spot (not always a bad thing if you use a straight pipe you can shoot Flames lol)
as I said before I bought the car a month ago so I am still learning about turbos that is why I asked you guys what are the alternatives to my problem and all I am arguing is that it takes a lot to blow an engine. I am not saying the not tuning my car will be a bad thing it will be a good thing because I will unlock all of its power rather that just some of its power. Untuned will put more wear on the engine but there are like two good tuner shops in WA and I went to the best one but they wanted me to go to OBD1 and put 750cc injectors and tune my car for like 350hp for like $2000 but I like the power the car has I just want the reliablity it lacks by going too lean or too rich
No, it doesn’t take alot to blow an engine. Especially when you start playing around with an untuned turbo car. And your comment about nitrous is wrong. If used properly, nitrous is just as safe a power adder as a turbo. It just costs way to much damn money. 50-65$ a bottle.
And a big problem with 5th gear pulls is insufficient engine cooling. The cylinders get rediculously hot when you run them in 5th for extended periods.
http://beesandgoats.com might be able to answer alot of your questions bout turbocharged integras.
You also can’t compare on how you beat the crap out of your accord and revved the shit out of it and it didn’t blow up. It was an NA car and running at proper air/fuel ratios. Detonation is what kills a motor, and it can happen very quickly. Running a turbo motor with not fuel management is detonation heaven.
this will not only answer a lot of questions but bring you to a better understanding of whats going on inside that LS of yours.
and those items u listed are not alternatives to a tune just to get by…
even i rightnow am running untuned (sold my hondata) but i rarly beat on it and take the necessary precautions to avoid a meltdown (no 4/5th gear pulls).