Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going

ASSISTANCE Forced Induction
321

Yeah I wasn’t going to find a standard bend that would of worked. Surprisingly from what I’ve found there isn’t as much info out there on tuning with the s300 like there is for crome. Or I’m just not looking in the right places. I did find this though that had a lot of good info on what stuff is and what it does Hondata s300 Programmable ECU Guide

So I was able to weld up my downpipe during class on Monday. I had to do very small welds here and there to keep it from warping or distorting. In the end this part alone took me a little more than 4 hours to get completely welded. I’m sure if it wasn’t my first time doing this type of thing it would of been a lot faster. Even so, I’m more than happy with the way it came out and can’t wait to get the rest finished.

Onto the photos of it

Back purged with 10-15cfm Argon gas. Penetration isn’t prefect, but it’s nearly 100% everywhere

Best part, fits perfectly =]

Welds aren’t perfect, but again it was my first attempt at ever messing with pie cuts or making a downpipe and I think it came out great. Next is to weld on a straight pipe, add a flex joint, o2 bungs, and the other v band flange. Then the downpipe will officially be done

322

myl4d2addons_mk_toasty!_thumb.jpg

323

[QUOTE=TerribleTeg;2325125][/QUOTE]

…I’m sorry but I have no idea what that means

324

"It originated as an inside joke between members of the Mortal Kombat development team, and made its way into the game via an image of sound designer Dan Forden appearing in the lower-right corner of the screen, and saying “Toasty!” in a falsetto voice, when the player performed a particularly vicious uppercut. "

It just means good job or badass lol

325

:rockon: Nice job man. Fit up on those welds is spot on, and you purged it too! A lot of people don’t like wasting gas purging downpipes, but if you’re gonna do it, do it right! Glad to see you’re taking welding classes. It was the best thing I ever did, and I’ve had some awesome fucking jobs because of it (Production SS, tubes for boilers w/xray tests, AL tool boxes for trucks, AL oil tanks at Peterson Fluid Systems). Learning it the right way will take you a long way brotha. I’ve got a Dynasty at home, and man it’s nice to be able to just hit the garage and weld whatever I want. What machine are you using in class? And i’m assuming you used a gas lense right?

326

[QUOTE=TerribleTeg;2325127]"It originated as an inside joke between members of the Mortal Kombat development team, and made its way into the game via an image of sound designer Dan Forden appearing in the lower-right corner of the screen, and saying “Toasty!” in a falsetto voice, when the player performed a particularly vicious uppercut. "

It just means good job or badass lol[/QUOTE]
Ooooh, yeah I never would of figured that out lol. Thanks though

Thanks. I didn’t mind wasting gas since I wasn’t the one paying for it lol, well that’s not true. I had it set at 25cfm and turned it down because I finished off one bottle and didn’t want to change it again. I can only imagine how much gas the school goes through each week. Glad I’m taking the classes too. It’s been fun and no way could I of learned what I have on my own, at least not as quick anyway. I wouldn’t mind doing some of the stuff out in the field like you said you’ve done. Aluminum tool boxes would be cool. I suck major ass with aluminum though. I’m surprised I passed that section last semester. I’m awful at it for some reason. I wish I had my own machine man. It would be nice to just go out and make shit whenever I wanted. One day though. The machines we have at school are Dynasty 200’s. That’s all we use for tig and stick. Mig has a different machine, but I have no idea what it is. I’ve never done any of that. We also use some little water cooler to cool the torch down while we’re using it. It’s pretty sweet, although I forget to turn it on half the time. And yeah I used a gas lens. I use it pretty much all the time regardless of what I’m working on. I always tend to use an 8 cup as well. Not sure why, I just like the size of it. On the pie cuts I used 1/16th 2% thoriated tungsten, gas lens, 8 cup, 1/16th 308l filler rod, and 45-48 amps.

So today in class I got it a bit closer to being done. I went ahead and cut the straight pipe part and welded on the flex joint. I was using 1/16th rod at first (cause that’s what we use for everything in class) and the bead was way too small. The lip on the flex joint was tall and kinda had a double lip on it. One of the instructors told me to use a 3/32 rod and try and walk the cup to get a much wider bead to cover both lips. I had never done any “walking the cup” before so it was fun to figure that out. It didn’t come up super consistent, but the bead is plenty wide and I have no worries about it failing.

I’ll put it up on the car tomorrow or Friday and figure out the next step. I need a short straight piece on the other side of the flex joint and then another v band flange. I also need to figure out where exactly on the long straight piece where the two o2 bungs are going to be placed. After that the downpipe will be done =] Doing the rest of the system shouldn’t be as complicated (knock on wood) although I have no more material and I’m broke…

327

props to you doing everything yourself.

328

Thanks. Honestly this whole exhaust project just kinda fell into my lap. Basically like this…

I had a bit of money saved up and the plan was to put some away for Hondata and use the rest to have my friend make my exhaust system. Well I talked to my friend about him doing it and unfortunately he said he and his shop were booked for months. So at that point I said ok forget the exhaust I’ve got the money for Hondata I’ll just go ahead and buy that, so I did. Well a few days later (the night before the new college semester was to start) I got a call from my teacher. He told me that I was the only person signed up for a specific class (oxy fuel welding) and that it wasn’t really a class I had to take. He suggested I switch to the fabrication class because I needed that one for my course plan and he figured I would enjoy it more. Well normally you can’t switch classes last minute, but some magic was worked and he made it happen. I went into class the next day thinking I’ll have to make some random shit from a syllabus like some boxes or frames of some kind. Turned out we could make anything we wanted =] But…we had to pay for materials. I figured if I’m gonna pay for stuff I might as well make something that I want. And next thing I know I’m balls deep in pie cuts and stainless tubing. I know that was really long, but basically if it weren’t for my teacher switching me into that class who knows how long it would of been before I had a new exhaust. Glad things just work out sometimes.

Annnnyway. Onto some updates. Finally got the downpipe done :slight_smile:

I welded on the two o2 bungs


Added a little extension pipe and the other vband flange


And how it looks finished (shit picture)

Can’t wait to fire the car up and hear this thing. Gotta wait for my ecu though which is still getting hondata put in =[ I’m still debating on whether the downpipe needs a support bracket added on somewhere. It’s kinda heavy and until I finish the rest of the exhaust, it’ll only be supported by the vband flange at the turbo. Don’t want it to crack obviously

329

^^^ you got talent and patient man.:up:

330

Thanks. I was going to wrap the whole thing with the titanium wrap like I did on my charge pipes and the dump, but I’m proud of all those pie cuts lol. I’m just gonna wrap the straight pipe part so heat doesn’t go into the oil pan. I’m gonna put it up on the car tomorrow even though it’s going to be so damn cold. I’m so sick of this boo boo ass weather. This is Texas, it should be rainy and icy in the beginning of March >=[ And I’m still waiting to get my ecu back…ugh

331

at least you dont get -30 like us. lol

332

I actually read all 17 pages word for word. Too bad you had to get rid of your prized possession. I know this may be out of your budget but look at this exhaust. Beautiful sound and it’s a true 3 inch design which would help a lot with your turbo build

http://www.dasbydesign.com/Dasby-Design-3-Exhaust-for-K-swap-Mig-welded-detail.htm?productId=-80130&browse=-9677&shopBy=-4291&catalogId=-1447

333

iiii need your welding skills!! wish i could just send the stuff i needed welded up for my turbo set up to you and let you do it for me lol
but i had a question about your intercooler if you dont mind. what size is it and (dimensions and inlet ,outlet ports) and what brand? i really don’t want to cut up my bumper and yours seems to fit perfectly love to stealth look:ohyeah:

334

This is true. I don’t really mind the cold, I’m just sick of all the damn rain. I know we need it, but we don’t need it all at once lol

[QUOTE=Loccdogg;2325479]I actually read all 17 pages word for word. Too bad you had to get rid of your prized possession. I know this may be out of your budget but look at this exhaust. Beautiful sound and it’s a true 3 inch design which would help a lot with your turbo build

http://www.dasbydesign.com/Dasby-Design-3-Exhaust-for-K-swap-Mig-welded-detail.htm?productId=-80130&browse=-9677&shopBy=-4291&catalogId=-1447[/QUOTE]
$800 for an exhaust made out of “304 Brushed Stainless Steel Aluminum”. I’ve never heard of stainless steel aluminum. I’m pretty sure it’s either one or the other. Not sure what’s going on there…maybe they made a typo. Either way, I’m happy with making my own exhaust system. It’s turned out really well so far. Thanks for looking out though

[QUOTE=codyjferri;2325495]iiii need your welding skills!! wish i could just send the stuff i needed welded up for my turbo set up to you and let you do it for me lol
but i had a question about your intercooler if you dont mind. what size is it and (dimensions and inlet ,outlet ports) and what brand? i really don’t want to cut up my bumper and yours seems to fit perfectly love to stealth look:ohyeah:[/QUOTE]
Lol if I had my own machine I’d be more than willing to make stuff for people. My intercooler is just a cheapo one from ebay. I don’t remember the exact dimensions of it though sorry. I didn’t buy it new, my friend gave it to me off his 280. I know I had mentioned the dimensions somewhere, so I’ll try and find them and get back to you. I had to cut a very small amount out of the grill, but nothing noticeable. It still looks completely stock.

So a bit of a depressing update. I got my ecu back from my friend who was soldering all the stuff in…and he couldn’t finish it. Said he was having trouble adding the last of the stuff. So I took it over to a guy I know from the car meets and he finished it for me last night. All looked good this time. I put it in the car, turned the key on, the computer recognized it, and everything seemed fine. I opened up a stock b16a calibration, changed the injector size, added 20% fuel across the board for the e85, and fired the car up. It ran for about 20 seconds and threw a cel. I looked into the Hondata software to see what the code was, but it showed nothing. The car was still running with the cel on so I tried to datalog and it said was datalogging. I saw the clock moving running, but when I stopped it and tried to download and view it, nothing was there like I hadn’t ever tried to datalog anything. I then tried again and noticed my iat and ect sensors were bothing reading 302 degrees, and my tps stayed at -12% even when I floored it. I shut the car off at that point, messed with the computer, cleared everything and started over. No matter what I tried the car would not start again and the upload feature didn’t seem to be working on the software to the ecu. I checked the hondata board and I had 2 green lights so it should of been working fine. I gave up at that point cause I was pissed and it was late.

I’m hoping it’s just a communication problem between the computer and the ecu. I’m going to try another laptop tomorrow and see how it goes.

I was reading this on Hondata’s forum earlier though

"5. Can SManager upload the calibration to the s300? If you can’t upload a calibration, it is the ECU socketing.

  1. Can SManager datalog from the ECU? If you can’t datalog, then switch the on-board datalogging off, clear the stored datalogs and try again. If you still can not datalog then it is the ECU socketing."

Signs are pointing to the soldering on this ecu being messed up just like the first one. I’m going to try everything I can think of tomorrow to get it working, but if it turns out the this ecu is messed up too…then I’m up shit creek without a paddle for the time being. It’ll be a hard lesson learned for me trying to save some money by having friends do the work for me instead of paying a professional. If I have to buy yet another ecu I’m just going to order the ecu kit already to go from HAMotorsports. I’ve ordered an ecu through them before and I know it’ll work without issue. Downside is that’s $190.

This whole situation blows

335

I’ll keep this short.

Got the ecu working, j12 had to be cut. Tried tuning the car the past two days, got it running and idling by throwing numbers at it. Learned that there isn’t much information online about what is what and how the program works. That being said, it’s way over my head

336

what exactly do you mean its way over your head? your doing good man,

337

I’ll use this as an example. In Crome to change ect fuel compensation, there is one table/graph. To change that same parameter in Hondata, there are 7 tables/graphs. SEVEN…for one thing (although it’s an important thing). Low engine load, medium engine load, open loop low engine, open loop high load, closed loop low load, closed loop…you get the point.

I was able to figure Crome out relatively easily because it was a very minimalist program. It was bare bones basic and simple. Plus there were soo many write ups online about what was what within the program and how things worked and what things affected each other when adjusted.

Hondata is a full on tuning program. You can adjust every little tiny parameter you can think of. That’s why Hondata cars run so well, because every little thing has been tuned. I found some stuff online on Hondata’s website about how the program works, but it didn’t help me much. It’s over my head in the sense that there are so many different parameters that can be adjusted, fine tuned and so much detail stuff I never even knew where possible to tune.

I’ve got my wideband hooked up to it so I can datalog my afr, but for some reason even though hondata is showing me my correct afr in the display window it wont datalog it correctly. It shows it all as 17.65 which isn’t correct. Once I can datalog my afr and figure out how to use the autotune feature, I’m hoping that will help get me close and then I can go in and fine tune what is needed

338

So small update. I took the downpipe off to wrap it, and put it back on today

Took the car around the corner from my house to a park to get a quick cell phone shot. As of earlier this month I’ve owned this car 5 years. Doesn’t feel like it’s been that long.

As for an update on how the tuning is going. I did manage to get it to read and datalog my afr correctly by using the eld input. I also got the car running well enough to drive it around. I just can’t get on it. I’m trying to find someone I know with a car trailer so I can get it down to Houston to have my friend street tune it for me

339

Looks so good man. I want to boost my L’s. I’m in the process of picking up a head with some burnt exhaust valves and upgrading the valvetrain. But until then I’ll probably disassemble it and clean it up and attempt to port it and polish it. I got a lot of research to do still and knowledge to gain but hopefully, I can make it work.

340

Looks so good man. I want to boost my L’s. I’m in the process of picking up a head with some burnt exhaust valves and upgrading the valvetrain. But until then I’ll probably disassemble it and clean it up and attempt to port it and polish it. I got a lot of research to do still and knowledge to gain but hopefully, I can make it work.