Ok, I’m new to boost but kinds know what’s goin on. I just put together a setup on my 90 DA, jdm b18b, dam 450 blue tops, log manifold, 14b turbo, 1g eclipse bov and wastegate, I’m only pushin 5 psi right now with a a’pexi bro and AEM wideband to help with tuning. my question/problem right now is when I boost in 2nd at about 4800rpm I can feel the boost start to build but just drops real quick like lag then kick back up again realy fast, I’m not getting any cel or anything, a/f is stayin right around 14.0 and nothing else is happening at any other rpm or gear. what could this be? oh I also have a walbro 255 and dropped my fuel pressure to 28 psi.
45 psi isn’t the stock fuel pressure. its like 30 for an ls and about 38 for a b20. i’m not very knowledgeable with turbo setups, but kinda sounds like u have a wastegate issue.
I agree, you are going to want 12-12.5’s or so in boost. 14 is way too lean! Also stock fuel pressure is 43psi, and should be kept there.
What is a “a’pexi bro”? is that like an AFC? That may be another problem if that is what you are tuning with since it has no control over timing. Timing should be pulled a little for every pound of boost, which is another reason that a chipped ECU/standalone is all but necessary.
Hope that helps, but definately sounds like a tune/fuel issue.
a’pexi neo, my bad, i was on my ipod and it spellchecked for me, i turned the fuel presure up to 35 and decreased my timing, now im throwin cel 9, wtf, its not popping or bogging, just throwin the code when i drive for longer than 15 minutes at a constant speed, a/f is around 10.5 at idle and 12.5 under boost.
A chipped ECU really is the way to go. You can probably get rid of the AFC and be able to buy one with what you make. 10.5 is insanely rich at idle haha. You should aim for 15 or so, sometimes up to 17 works on Hondas. There is not really a risk of detonating since it is under no load, but I would say that 15-15.5 would be a good number to shoot for. Did you just pull timing at the distributor? That will make it run crappy off of boost, but make it safer in boost. Again the only way to have the best of both worlds is a chipped ECU. Happy Boostin’!
yeah i just retarded the timing on the distributor, got everything runnin right, still rich as hell though, the reason im using the afc is because i already had it in and am stuck with obd1 right now, i dont have anything to tune with yet and the nearest tuning shop is a 5 hour drive one way, it sounds like a bunch of excuses but im a little broke after droppin the cash for boost and if i can get by with what i have now then i hope i can get by till i get some more $ saved up for an s300 and a rywire harness, i already have an p06 chipped for a b18b im just saving for the rest
you’re not “stuck” with OBD1. OBD1 is exactly what you want. you can get a chipped ecu and basemap with the money you get from selling your afc. in my opinion you would be better off with the chipped ecu over the afc for about the same price. with either setup you will need somebody to tune it, whether it be yourself or some other competent tuner. be very careful, it doesnt take much for a stock untuned block to blow. do as much research and ask as many questions as you need in order to do this properly. good luck
hey, how close is your city to washington? like the WSU campus in particular? I go here and tuned my car and everything, and might be able to help if you want. Probably at least get it running a little better. But yeah OBD1 is what you want, either Crome (probably most popular) or neptune are good systems to use.
damn i hate my ipod, i meant im stuck with obd0, i have a 90 DA, my bad… again. yeah… washington is a while away, im in southeast idaho. american falls to be exact, its about 4 and a half hours from salt lake, and about 3 and a half from the capital, boise, so washington would probably be an overnighter. like i said, i have a chiped p06 but i just need to save for an obd0-obd1 swap and get a good chip like hondata. i don’t have any tuning provisions as of now and probably wont for a while, it would be great to find someone closer to help me tune but its hard in this part of idaho. if i get some time away from work and get the obd swap i might hit you up JETT_07 but untill then… yeah, just got my intercooler on yesterday, still only pushin 5lbs to be safe. i hav a traction bar ordered. and after that comes a new intake manifold and the swap. im running the p75 intake that came with the motor and i dont have a place to screw the ITS in right now so its just chillin by the blowoff valve to try and get a reading… it sounds like a sorry excuse of a DA but i love my little car. its just finding the money and experienced tuners to help me that sucks.
Haha, that’s all it takes though, as long as you like what you have, what does it matter what others think? It sounds like at least you are being smart and staying low boost until you get it tuned, and at least you arent like some that think they can just run stock injectors and a stock ECU, then come on here wondering why their car doesnt run right or why it blew up. Yeah I guess that is like the exact opposite side of Idaho I was thinking. I was thinking it was probably around Post Falls, which isn’t far away. To be honest, before the intake manifold I would get the ECU and if you want OBD-1, the stuff to convert. I ran TurboEdit, and actually liked it a lot, and that way I didnt have to convert OBD’s. I would just drill and tap a place for the ITS sensor, either weld a bung on the charge pipe or just drill and tap the manifold on the back or something. It’s up to you though. I have a stock complete LS OBD-0 intake manifold too if you are looking for one, but I assume you are probably looking for an aftermarket like BLOX or Skunk2. I had a skunk2 and it was a nice piece, although it took some work to get everything bolted up to it as it should be.
Yeah I was lookin at the blox mani, I have like the obd0 manifolds already I just wanted to stay with the p75 one when I dropped the motor in because it had slightly bigger runners when I was n/a, now that in boosted it sucks though because I don’t have a spot for the ITS. I did have a hole in my intake for it but when I piped my intercooler I patched the hole so I wouldn’t have any leaks. Yeah I looked up the distance from here to WSU, mapquest said a little over 8 hours and about 550 miles…
you have a chipped ECu already, I would mate that with a burner and new harness after you sell the Apexi Neo, and tune or set your parmimeters yourself. it’s not hard on 5psi and then you can get it to washington or wherever to get what you need.