Why do people get a FMU + a AFC when you can just get a Hondata stage 2b for only $645? With the 2b you don’t need the FMU + AFC right? Hence the reason a Hondata ECU is called a ‘standalone’?
Thanks,
Leif
you are correct leif.
I keep wrestling w/ the question of Hondata vs V-AFC. The advantages of the VAFC is that you have easy access to all the controls and can “fool around” at your leisure.
but i’ve seen some great dyno proven results w/ the hondata stage II for example. BUT the hondata must be dynotuned by a Honda certified blah blah blah…
but in reality you need to dyno tune to get the most out of either setup… obviously i still can’t decide. The VAFC is harder to “hide” though… hehe (just something for theives to steal).
Re: Hondata vs. FMU + AFC
Originally posted by leifintegra
[B]Why do people get a FMU + a AFC when you can just get a Hondata stage 2b for only $645? With the 2b you don’t need the FMU + AFC right? Hence the reason a Hondata ECU is called a ‘standalone’?
Thanks,
Leif [/B]
Because those of us with 1990 or 1991 cars can’t use Hondata. And the Zdyne, which we can use, costs $1000+…
Re: Re: Hondata vs. FMU + AFC
Originally posted by Haberdasher
[B]
Because those of us with 1990 or 1991 cars can’t use Hondata. And the Zdyne, which we can use, costs $1000+… [/B]
I did not know that.
Thanks,
Leif
Yeah the 90-91 guys are kinda screwed for hondata. I effictively have a hondata 2b when I dyno’d my car, the only thing I have done is modify the values for my injectors, which hondata will do for you as long as you know what size your injectors willbe/are. I have yet to modify the fuel maps.
hondata is compatiable with a obd0 B16 ecu(pwo or pr3). It might also work with a pr4 ecu but you’ll have to contactHondata to comfirm.
I wouldn’t want to use Hondata if it was available for my car. You have to remove the chip from the computer, burn the new program into it, and reinstall everytime you change the program. You have to buy the chip burner in addtion to everything else if you want to be bale to make any changes on your own. What a pain in the ass…not as user friendly as the Zdyne which is plug and play…you can even make changes to the program when the car is running…
Hondata:gun2:
:burnout: Zdyne
Originally posted by Haberdasher
[B]I wouldn’t want to use Hondata if it was available for my car. You have to remove the chip from the computer, burn the new program into it, and reinstall everytime you change the program. You have to buy the chip burner in addtion to everything else if you want to be bale to make any changes on your own. What a pain in the ass…not as user friendly as the Zdyne which is plug and play…you can even make changes to the program when the car is running…
Hondata:gun2:
:burnout: Zdyne [/B]
What about the Hondata stage 4? Doesn’t it do the stuff like the Zdyne?
So everytime you want to make a change you have to send your ecu back to Hondata? Hmmm, that does suck.
Why do most people contend that a standalone is so much better than a AFC piggy back on a FMU?
Leif
Actually, Leif with the Hondata 2B(for instance) in order for changes to be made to your maps, you HAVE to use Stage 4 software. Unless you have access to it, you can’t make any changes without it. Hondata stage 4B and Zdyne GOLD ECU, are pretty much the same, except the Hondata has datalogging capabilities.
As far folks using the AFC’s/FMU setup(like me), it’s fine for minimal boost levels <8psi, but any higher than that you are lookin at pushin massive FUEL PRESSURES, in upwards of 140psi(12:1 FMU at 8 psi, plus stock pressure of 40psi) Using a smaller disc and bigger injectors (310’s) will cure it a bit, though. Also, retarding timing makes everyday driving a little more laggy, as well. With a standalone, you essentially have a factory-like Turbo car.
fmus’ are a cheap fix bandaids to increase fuel pressure by each psi of boost, like a 12:1ratio fmu raises 12psi of fuel pressure for each psi of boost so your fuel pressure gets very high. check valves/one-way valves between the map sensor are to prevent the ecu to see boost cause it will trigger a CEL since hondas arent designed to boost. So your ecu has no idea your running boost like a car with no map sensor and it does not increase fuel for boost, and thats what a fmu is for. Hondata and zdyne modify honda ecus’ to be able to read boost like a factory turbo car. AFC can be used with bigger injectors but it still doesnt know if your boosting, it modifies to signal of the ecu to increase fuel but your ecu doesnt know your boosting so same problem.
Originally posted by integracon
Actually, Leif with the Hondata 2B(for instance) in order for changes to be made to your maps, you HAVE to use Stage 4 software. Unless you have access to it, you can’t make any changes without it. Hondata stage 4B and Zdyne GOLD ECU, are pretty much the same, except the Hondata has datalogging capabilities.
Yes the Hondata 2B requires that you send the unit back to Hondata if you want changes. The 4b requires that you remove the chip (PROM) from the ECU and install it into the “Pocket Programmer” which is hooked up to the serial port of your computer. You then burn the program into the chip and then reinstall. That, to me, is a pain in the ass…http://www.hondata.com/downloads/romeditor25.pdf
With the Zdyne Gold SECU all you have to do is connect the ECU with a computer and you’re all set.
What allows a standalone to be tuned better than a AFC is the resolution that the standalone is capable of. The AFC can only be set in 500rpm increments where as the standalone can be set almost infinatly. Also the AFC can only adjust fuel curves, but not ignition curves like the standalone can. The AFC can’t sense boost either.
Originally posted by Haberdasher
[B]
Yes the Hondata 2B requires that you send the unit back to Hondata if you want changes. [/B]
Actually, you don’t necissarily HAVE to send it back to Hondata. If you have access to 4B software, it can be tuned using that http://www.hondata.com/stage2.html
Originally posted by Haberdasher
With the Zdyne Gold SECU all you have to do is connect the ECU with a computer and you’re all set.
Sounds like the new AEM EMS…
Any opinions on this setup?
yea aem ems is good, complete standalone unit it’s plug and play for obd1 cars but not for obd0 still. It sounds like a great system with tons of features, if your willing to pay the price for a aem.
For Hondata, burning chips isnt too fun but hondata’s price is hard to beat. You can find a groupbuy for a hondata 2b for $590.
Thank you for the information guys. This has been very helpful.
Leif
If Zdyne and Hondata were to merge all would be good in the world of standalones…
Originally posted by Haberdasher
If Zdyne and Hondata were to merge all would be good in the world of standalones…
I wondering if I buy the Hondata stage 4 for my 92 teg now. Later can I use the same stage 4 in other Honda car?
Lot of misinformation going around. I emailed Doug at Hondata…still waiting for a response. I know this much:
If you plan on using a Hondata system on your 90-93 Integra, you will need to buy a P74/P75 ECM (from a 94-95 Integra LS). However, the P74 ECM will not plug into our harness.
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