thats what I hear, spec says to use 5w30. so should I really go 10w30 if synthetic proves to leaky? I have a new oil pan gasket to put on it anyway so that will help.
if the leak is really from the oil pan gasket then i guess u can use it if u want, but yes it is true that if u have been using conventional oils or high mileage type for such long time then change over to synthetic fully over time u might have other leaks like valve stems leak and so on. But time will tell though you may get better performance and all and longer lasting oil change like 5000-7000 instead of 3000. But if u have burning oil there is no point of it. If i were you just stick with mobil 5000-7500 10w 30 or something like that for $10 bucks at walmart for 5 qt bottle. I am using 10w 40 so the oil weight is thicker to help the oil have a slower leak if it does anything rather then 5w 30 or 10w 30 since i notice more oil burning and leaks.
Note if i am running crower stage 2 cams with b16 shortgear tranny being at 4000rpm constantly in freeway for the last yr with mobil 5000-7500 10w 40 with 338k miles i am sure you should be fine since i am running much more extreme setup with more heat anyway.
I do have a 16lb rad cap with 160 degree termostat tho with water wetter from redline to help cool my car. I use no coolant at all. water wetter has it already.
197k miles, runs like a new car, doesnt leak or burn oil, just did timing belt and full tuneup…(plugs, timing adjustment, hoses, belts,etc) but it DOES leak PS fluid and has a nice cat heatshield rattle!
93 ls 190k bought in 2001
Replaced:
Distributer
Fuel pump
All engine mounts
3 cv axles
All shocks
2 ball joints
Clutch
Valve gasket set
Cam seal
Oil pan
? Owner was involed in front end accident prior to my ownership has new front clip n cooling system
Has no a/c or cruise control
Just bought
1991 ls Db1 279k. Still runs strong.:rockon:
198,000 Km’s and she just burns a bit of oil. May be a small leak somewhere, since I’m running Mobil 1 5w30 Full Synthetic, and have been for a long while now. Runs great though, I plan to keep this motor in it for a little while yet. This summer the car gets bodywork/paint/tranny swap/everything else small that needs to be done, next it gets a new powerplant.
I love this car though.
i think the longest you can run if you need to is 400k miles…but when ever i get like 100 - 200k i been getting those motors from japan that always have less than 30k miles cuz of that law
i got 298k on my 90 GS it goes through about half a quart of oil every 1,500 miles, it still runs great but you can tell its tired but I’m building an LS-t for it in a couple months
wat
uh… yea. what?
law?
huh?
pulled this off the net somewhere.
Cheston with Soko America:
There is no such law “requiring” engine replacement at a certain mileage. That is a urban myth propagated by importers and car owners who simply don’t know or understand the situation in Japan. The high taxes (annually assessed), insurance premiums, gas costs, and especially the safety inspection/registration (occurs biennial) combine to keep turnover of vehicles high.
For example, the Safety inspection for your typical car (say Camry/Accord type) can typically cost $2,000…each time! New vehicles have a 3 year grace period before they are required to submit for the Safety Inspection. In other words, for a 10 year old car, you will have already paid over $8,000, in just Safety Inspection fees! Don’t forget, gas over in Japan is also typically four times the cost of here in the U.S. Mileage is kept low on the vehicles as EVERYONE (unless your fabulously rich and patient) uses alternative transportation to get around. Most folks use the trains for local and medium distance traveling/commuting.
Far distances are taken by airplane and local transportation done by either bicycle or bus. In that society, your car tends to be a status symbol more than anything else. I hope this sheds a little more light for you!
It’s true that synthetic oil can clean engine deposits that are actually acting to seal oil in. You may notice more leakage from the oil pan, valve cover and cam seal as a result. That’s not a huge issue in itself, provided it’s just seeping out rather than flowing out. I’d be more concerned about the condition of your rings, valves, and valve seats. A compression test may be in order. Does it smoke at all? If your rings are excessively worn you can reduce oil consumption by switching to a heavier oil like 10w40. Doing so may raise your oil pressure too, which should prolong the life of the engine.
However, 5w30 and 10w30 are exactly the same viscosity at operating termperature so I don’t forsee much benefit if you switch to 10w30.
Just for giggles, does anyone still have the stock airbox/breather on their car? I do…and it recommends that you change the oil ever 12 000kms, that’s like 7000 miles…JESUS! I change mine no more than 5000kms, with full syn. oil and it gets a new oil filter everytime. These things do run forever!
i still have the stock … everything.
but the airbox is broken on the corner, from having the radiator support bent into it.
I do oil changes at 3k miles, think my wifes car is a bit over-due (91 toyota celica with 114k miles on the engine).
I don’t have the stock airbox, but I do have the owner’s manual…and my old Teg’s manual said the same thing, change every 7500 miles.
Replaced motor due to rediculous amounts of smoke at 223 000 k but it had been opened up by a previous owenr due to an apparent timing chain incident.
Who knows…
Replaced with 60 000 mile b18b from a 96.
Beautifully smooth and great on gas.
Yee Haw
[QUOTE=Malformed;1872041]uh… yea. what?
law?
huh?[/QUOTE]
Not only that but no one says a DA can’t go past 400k. Granted most will not make it that far anyway.
i mean if you treat your car good…but i was told before i bought this newer engine with only like 30 thousand miles from japan…the mechanic said that in japan when there cars reach 30k miles they have to take them out and put in a brand new engine and if they dont then they get fined a bunch of money till they do…but i guess this saves on gas and emissions…and of course a few cars are exzempt**…and then they send them to america so he gets a couple for hondas and acuras
93 white db2 258k mi.
92 red db2 225k mi.
92 green db2 199k mi. gave to sister
91 black db1 230k mi.l
92 red dbi 170k mi. sold
91 red db1 189k mi. sold
93 red da 170k mi. sold
91 gold db1 179k. still running great
93 black db1 180k. just got a b20z2 since it threw a rod @ 169k
There were others too, these are just the more memorable. When I was young these things barely made it to the best cars under 10k three years in a row. I made it my legacy to share with friends.
[QUOTE=deuce gsr;1872650]93 white db2 258k mi.
92 red db2 225k mi.
92 green db2 199k mi. gave to sister
91 black db1 230k mi.l
92 red dbi 170k mi. sold
91 red db1 189k mi. sold
93 red da 170k mi. sold
91 gold db1 179k. still running great
93 black db1 180k. just got a b20z2 since it threw a rod @ 169k
There were others too, these are just the more memorable. When I was young these things barely made it to the best cars under 10k three years in a row. I made it my legacy to share with friends.[/QUOTE]
lots of DA’s :bowdown:
my DA daily driver has 338,480 kms so far just replaced distributor… knock on wood i hope it won’t break down in the near future
400 more miles and i am at 340,000k MIles. Burning oil, leaking oil pan gasket now, still running stage 2 cams LOL. I know.