Solved the starter problem and got another one !!
The engine would start once for all cylinder and then stop
I tested for gas, spark and what else… oxygen ? Yes ! GSR intake seems to have a very different idle valve port than LS intake. I unsrew the idle screw and put some tension on the throttle cable and ZZZOOUUUMM
start well, idle well, damn i cannot wait to rock it.
Indeed i do have a question for the LSVTEC GSR intake owner.
THrottle cable is reallly not the same as the LS one. The cable is muuuuch longer since the adjusting nut is closer to the throttle body. Any suggestion ?
gs-r cable maybe???
where are you getting your tuning done?
im doing it myself, i have a laptop ready and a LC1 hookedup
after at least 40 hours of investigation and lots of head aches, i finally solve the idling/ starting problem. I saw lots of post about HIGH idle and car not starting. They tried to swich to a different ECU and that worked. Here’s my results:
The car would start once, idle at maybe 2.5krpm and never go under. When i kill it, it would not want to start again and plugs would be filled with gas. SO i suspected the IACV FITV setup because it looked a lot like a vacuum leak and as a matter of fact,IACV was stuck open, always. My setup LSVTEC is a B18A and 98 GSR head. So i told myself, what sensors influence the IACV ? Answer was coolant temperature sensor. Cold sensor give high resistance and hot sensor gives low resistance. So the 98 GSR cold sensor yeild around 200k Ohm, and LS is around 3 Kohm. HURRRA! Now my car start and idle really great.
I will take picture and video tomorrow, tuningi s due to next week.
been running at 7 psi, injector saturates at 96% @ 7850 rpm
i’ve tried once 1/4 mile, been kind on the clutch and did a poor 60feet of 2.55 sec. 14.7 at the end of the track, with a 2.1 0-60feet i would have done 14.1. Can’T wait for new injector to raise it up to 15 psi. Hope to see very low 13.
update after 2 months, hold strong and kick ass.
I bought TT injectors 660cc and installed my walbro pump yesterday, goin into the DYNO in a week or 2.
i did it the easy way, as you can see ! took me 2hours
oh, and heres my new dogg !
nice work! my setup should be done and tuned next week. i got turbo problems :(. my turbo doesn’t have the correct turbine wheel. i really don’t know why and how that happened but im massively raging!!!
would be cool to meet up once both of our setups are done.:rockon:
your ground on your valve cover is in the wrong spot… should be on the nut that holds the valve cover down.
that place where you have it is for the JDM throttle cable.
JDM throttle cable ? why would it pass in front of the engine ?
Anyway, thanks for the input, i’ll change it if it can give me better ground connections.
because the throttle cable comes from the right side of the firewall so it does a loop infront of the engine. otherwise if it passed closer to the firewall the loop would be to small and would restrict the cable.
Another better spot for a ground is on the power steering mounting points on the head.
been doing some morecleanup this fall
i am currently makin my own lip kit with EK side, accord rear and DA front
any cooling issues?
i need to get a stronger rad fan or make a shroud or something.
i’ve been having a cooling issue, but ive made a shroud that doesnt show on these pictures and its been going much better !
If your looking for a good fan that’s inexpensive and the best money can buy, get the spal 13" S-blade puller. that fan is proven. as far as myself, I have a FAL fan that is OK, but could be better. I’ve been down this road myself… I have 3 Perma-Cool fans sitting in the garage as we speak, get the SPAL. not FAL. all the other cheap fans out there that claim 15,000 CFM is BS.
havnt looked at the spal fans but im aware of the s blade being the trick. thanks for the info!
i’ve been running that setup mostly during august and sept, which is not the hotest months. And behind that rad is a FAL fan, cost of it is around 150$ i though it would do the best job !
