[QUOTE=Deceptakhan;2299358]Looks amazing! Wow everything just sits puuurect!
+1 for uber bawler wheels love the color combo.[/QUOTE]
Thanks Deceptakhan! Appreciate the kind words. I’m biased but I love the way the wheels came out. I’m thinking of putting another 3mm spacer on each side. I have always viewed the Sprint Hart CPR’s are an iconic wheel.
Thanks lx_roa! It’s been a long time coming for this car. I’ve really been enjoying it and making use of it this year.
A few pics from HIN in Louden, NH. More pics to come. I’m still figuring my new camera.
Man…such a sweet 2nd gen. Keep up the great work. Hey, I know this isn’t a how-to but i was wondering your opinion on something, I just started a mild wire tuck on my db2. I’m only on the drivers side so far but i ran into a snag. The harness comes to a “Y” right at the firewall. I’m not sure whether to try to seperate the Y and only pull the one leg into the cabin as its really tight down there or do I try to pull both legs into the cabin, seperate it in the cabin and then push the second leg back through the firewall and into the engine bay. then continue my first leg out through the fender, then extend to the headlights. I’ve done a ton of research and everyone seems to skip this part and just show the one leg coming out the fender. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks again, great pics and an epic build.
[QUOTE=lx_roa;2300431]Keep it coming dude! As long as you enjoy it that’s what matters!
I got a Da and I love that car! haha I drive it to school and not once do i get bored of her.[/QUOTE]
Nice man. This car was a daily from 2003-2007, they are great cars but also have some flaws. I have to say though the Koni/GC/Top hat setup is amazing. It’s like driving a whole new car. I can’t remember if I posted the rates, Front 10k Rear 8k.
Thanks! I know exactly what you mean. Here’s what I would recommend.
On the driver side run the wires back into the car and separate them. Run the correct wires through the fender and run the engine wires toward the middle of the car. On the passenger side do the same thing. You will want to feed all of the original wires back through except for the windshield wiper motor (if you are keeping it). Run the correct wires to the headlights etc through the passenger side fender and the remaining engine wires towards the middle of the car. As for the wires now left in the middle, you can attack it a few ways. I simply measured and extended all the wires and fed them through a custom whole in the center of the firewall. You can also get fancy and use a mil spec connector or something similar. Let me know if that makes sense.
I did everything I just described except I actually did not pull, extend and route all of the driver side wires to the middle of the car. There are very few of them, so actually I have them coming straight down the firewall to the harness and you can’t see them at all. Let me know if you have any more questions.
A few more pictures… I’m slowly learning how to shoot with manual on my new camera. I tested my PWM Boost Control with Hondata and everything seems to be working finally. I have my next tuning appointment @Xenocron Sept 20th. Looking forward to some autocross this month as well. Hopefully tuning day is successful.
Yeah man, thats exactly what I needed. Makes total sense. Just to be clear…If I do it the way you’re saying…I’ll end up with pretty much 3 entry points from inside the cabin…1 on the drivers side out the left fender area. (The spot you point out looks perfect, but on my GS-R…that spot has a wierd black rubber drain hose or something…not a grommet. I try to pull it out and the hose is long…it might go to my A/C evaporator drain). I’ll have 1 in the center of my firewall for all my center/engine connections, and i"ll have one on the passenger side firewall for all the big stuff. Does that sound right?
Hey brotha…thanks again for taking the time to respond. Your car is a real inspiration to all of us 2nd gen owners. I’ll be referring back to this thread a ton. Take care.
Tuning went well on Friday! The DYNO wasn’t reading all of the power after 5k rpm, but it was definitely a successful day as tuning was completed with no issues. After comparing the original graph and doing some math, my guess is more like 297-300hp.
Interesting. Looking at the dyno chart, it does seems odd that all the HP and TQ numbers stop at 5k like you mentioned, but all in all the torque on the road would feel ohhh sooo good when you lay it down on the streets. I can’t see why your turbo would stop breathing at 5k then drop. If that turbo you have is better than the GT2860rs you were originally going to put on, then it should have kept power up just a little longer (at least near mid 6 even 7k). Its still some good numbers, but outstanding torque numbers, something honda motors are not known for. Any plans to dyno your DA again at another shop to see a difference compared to the shop that tuned these numbers? Great stuff by the way!!!:burnout:
Thanks Ben. Also, thanks for the shout out in Dustin’s thread Yeah it wasn’t the turbo, the Gt2871r is a beast. The power wasn’t actually dropping off. Boost was pulling hard until red line and injectors were nearly maxed. According to Chris, the dyno was not reading the car’s power accurately (this has happened with a few other cars on his dyno). His estimate was that the car was making more like 300-320hp\290tq. If you look at the curve of the original dyno sheet from the 206whp, you can kind of guess where the curve is supposed to be. The torque # was definitely accurate though and I have to say having this much torque is awesome! I’m very happy with setup, it spools super fast and pulls hard until red line. As for the dyno graph, I am definitely planning to do a dyno day with some buddies next spring to get a more accurate graph but the most important thing to me is that the tune is done and Chris (Xenocron) did a great job.
Yeah, horsepower is nice, but TORQUE is everything! When one feels that torque pulling (with the appropriate suspension and a good set of axles), thats when you can enjoy the horsepower. The feeling is something amazing when boosting down the road.
Yeah it wasn’t the turbo, the Gt2871r is a beast. The power wasn’t actually dropping off. Boost was pulling hard until red line and injectors were nearly maxed. According to Chris, the dyno was not reading the car’s power accurately (this has happened with a few other cars on his dyno). His estimate was that the car was making more like 300-320hp\290tq. If you look at the curve of the original dyno sheet from the 206whp, you can kind of guess where the curve is supposed to be. The torque # was definitely accurate though and I have to say having this much torque is awesome! I’m very happy with setup, it spools super fast and pulls hard until red line. As for the dyno graph, I am definitely planning to do a dyno day with some buddies next spring to get a more accurate graph but the most important thing to me is that the tune is done and Chris (Xenocron) did a great job.
