Currently I have a RevoTechnica “control arm” style kit. The last time I went in for an alignment the tech told me that the bolts on the passenger side have rusted/frozen. It really wasn’t worth the money I paid.
I’m not sure which style I’ll get next.
Yep we paint cars… Call or text any time: 801.-901-.4700
The UtahHondas meet is coming up soon. It should be decent… 500+ cars or so.
[QUOTE=DA_all_day;2286058]i just went through your entire thread… nice work
1 question… are you on a stock fuel set up? i didnt see anything about fuel mods…[/QUOTE]
Thank you man! It’s nothing major, but I’m happy with it.
I’m running a 100% stock fuel system. Down to the factory 20yr old pump. I’m sure I could use a new one, but this one is holding out so, I’m not in a hurry to replace it. Our stock systems (pump/injectors) are good to 200whp or so… I’m right at the edge of needing more fuel, but the tuner didn’t say one word about it, I’m comfortable with it as-is.
ah… i see… the thing is, i have a pretty similar build except its a full ls. no vtec. you put down 187 with all those mods, stock fuel and vtec. i have all similar mods down to the bore with no vtec and upgraded fuel. the car just got running recently and were excited to find out what numbers its going to put down. were confident in 180 but some people are saying ~160. i would like to think that vtec doesnt add 20hp…
You have to look at it from the right perspective… The cam profile of a vtec lobe versus the more economic profile of an LS lobe is much more aggressive. Where one is more designed for fuel economy and driveability, the other is designed for economy on the lower end but “race-car-like” performance on the top end…
Long story short, cam choice will play a big part in your final numbers. A stock set of cams won’t make the best use of the increased air flow and displacement.
Stock LS will dyno around 115-120whp. If you hit 170, that’s still a 50whp gain, which is nothing to sneer at.
You’ll put down some solid numbers, but without proper cams, I could see vtec adding 20+whp. Keep us updated on how things go!
edit
Found this after a quick search:
[QUOTE=ls/vtecstitch;1972212]my car is stock ls b18b bottom end and stock b16a top end. I put down some sh*tty #'s with no tune.
150 hp
128ft lbs[/QUOTE]
If the average LS puts down 120whp, and a bolt-on swap of a vtec head puts down 150whp, that is a decent gain right off the bat. Add mods in and, typically, the vtec motor will show higher gains on the top end versus the non-vtec setup.
You can definitely get 20hp out of vtec since that’s a HUGE variable. And it’s very much dependent on what you’re comparing - specifically cams. That’s where the real benefit to vtec is - you essentially have 2 cam profiles which means you can run a very aggressive profile in the upper RPM range without hurting idle or drive-ability in the lower RPM. With a non-vtec engine you have to use the same cam profile and timing for all RPM, so if you want a really aggressive cam for max power you’ll sacrifice things like idle. The other benefit of vtec is the better flowing heads (at least this is the impression I’ve been given).
April 28th at the shopping-mall near Lagoon, in Farmington. They had pre-registration for 160 ‘preferred parking’ spots, $10/ea… Sold all spots in less than 72hrs lol. There will be an additional 250’ish ‘general admission’/free parking spots. If you need additional info, let me know, but it’s all posted on UtahHondas.net.
Now… Not to be a ricer, but, opinions:
“Acura” badges, or über JDM “Honda” badges?
I found my original ones, but they are all pitted and, well, 20yrs old. New Acura emblems are actually more expensive than Honda ones (DA6 “H” emblems as well as the Honda/Integra trunk badges).
Being that I left the holes on the hood and trunk, it looks like dookie with no emblems at all… so something needs to go on there… opinions?
Nothing huge, but I was looking at my mudflaps today… Not only was there (more) overspray on them from Maaco, they were very very sun faded. Typical interior/vinyl cleaner wouldn’t do a damn thing to help, either.
So I decided to try two products, back to back, to see which I liked better.
Plasti-dip vs SEM Trim Black:
Before/After
I really like both products, but each for certain applications. This time, Plasti-Dip wins. It left more of an OEM ‘texture’, and looked a bit more flat (versus a semi-gloss finish) which ended up looking a lot better imo.
Great idea with the Plasti-dip! I just painted my wheels a couple weeks back So far the look is pretty good and I’m waiting to see how durable it ends up being.
From gold
To black (looks kinda brownish in this pic for some reason)
Still filthy from my track day in the rain right before christmas
(sorry for whoring my shitbox out in your thread)
Also, I vote Honda badges
Let me know how durable you find it to be. I figure wheels will see quite a bit of wear & tear so they are definitely a good candidate. I think they look great though. The blue Rays lugs look nice as well
I’m itching to get the car back out… this snow needs to melt and stay gone!
It says “flexible”, but indeed, I’ll believe that when I see it.
I really don’t slam my car though… The only time I really scraped them was going over speed bumps. The bottoms of the flaps were baaaarely scratched up.
If it is something I have to re-do every few months, so be it… I don’t want to buy another set when these are (structurally) perfect.
My brother had the sand-blaster out yesterday, so I took that as an opportunity to clean up the battery tie down. It was rusting badly, and the factory rubber-coating was peeling off… I stripped it, blasted it, and sprayed it with the mud flaps yesterday.
It definitely is not perfect, but it will do until I get some things powdercoated. The fabric tie-down I have on there right now was driving me nuts, I wanted the OEM one back on!
I suspect you might ruin the finish where you tighten down the nuts for the bolts that hold that tie down. That’s why I didn’t paint under my lugnuts. But even if some of it does start to “lift” in that area maybe it’ll just stay put so long as you don’t mess with it. Have you peeled it off of anything yet? It’s a new product for me, but I’m keeping a few cans laying around and want to start trying it on all sorts of stuff to see what it’s like.
[QUOTE=unified112;2287614]It says “flexible”, but indeed, I’ll believe that when I see it.
I really don’t slam my car though… The only time I really scraped them was going over speed bumps. The bottoms of the flaps were baaaarely scratched up.
If it is something I have to re-do every few months, so be it… I don’t want to buy another set when these are (structurally) perfect.
My brother had the sand-blaster out yesterday, so I took that as an opportunity to clean up the battery tie down. It was rusting badly, and the factory rubber-coating was peeling off… I stripped it, blasted it, and sprayed it with the mud flaps yesterday.
It definitely is not perfect, but it will do until I get some things powdercoated. The fabric tie-down I have on there right now was driving me nuts, I wanted the OEM one back on![/QUOTE]
I need to find a factory tie down and bolts. I didn’t have one when I bought my db2.
So far the look is pretty good and I’m waiting to see how durable it ends up being.
