i dont see why it wouldnt work since its mounted with bolts and seems adjustable enough to make work for DA chassis. But im not sure.
My car experiences slams when i take off hard from either the front crossmember being cut or the engine moving and hitting firewall.
So im going to for sure replace front crossmember with traction bar but i was thinking of getting this too to be extra safe.
Also the ETD traction bar is coming with the front motor mount for extra support.[/QUOTE]
really interested in this, any insight much appreciated.
[QUOTE=DAprojectTuRtle;2155512]hello g2ic.com,
thought id share my DA integra. I bought the car as a shell and have been working on it since. Ive added the GSR engine, headlights, repainted all moldings, custom fitted EK sideskirts. This is hopefully my last honda build ever, so thats why im taking my sweet time lol. I love the oem color, very rare color in my opinion.
also i realize its higher in the front then the back. not too my liking but im not about slappin on some cheap ass ebay coils just to lower it. i believe in function and form. so until i get the D2 suspension setup this is how it sits.
tell me what u think?? have pics of a DA in B50M trim lemme see em.
[/QUOTE]
nice color i had the same DA but cant find the paint code b/c the last dumb owner :crazy: got the car painted and who ever the painter was didnt put the paint code on the car it still shows the car was white anyways nice DA
its finally time for this thread to come back alive… i finally got my license back after 5 freakin years this week. So now my DA can stop sitting. its finally time to finish it. ever since last time, ive done a little bit of work. painted the needles on the gauge cluster yellow to be exact. my poor car has only been driven maybe 500miles in 2years that ive been building it from a rolling shell to how its coming.
but now i can go at it fully and actually drive it. So ive already ordered new parts yesterday. PasswordJDM window visors, sidemarkers, spoon reservoir covers, front upper strut bar, rear upper strut bar, c pillar bar, radio block off plate, and maybe some other things im forgetting.
So this thread is back in business as my build thread. hopefully itll be moving alot quicker now that my focus has changed. pics will be taken as much as i can.
5 years? I had mine suspended for 2 years and I was miserable. I don’t know how you survived. I’m sure that when you drive it agian you’ll appreciate the car more than ever, I know I did.
Good luck with your build continuation.
yeah bro thanks… 5 freakin years lol. the only reason it took so long was because i owed like 6gs in tickets. so instead of paying i just waited 5 years till they were purgeable by the DMV. which means after 5 years the CA DMV throws away any unpaid tickets.
yeah im beyond excited. lets just say for the last 5 years i got too acquainted with good ol mary jane lol but now that im legit again, no more smoking.
it was a long time, but i never lost my love for hondas, preferably DA’s. i had bought this as a shell for 900 a couple years back just thinkin itd keep me motivated.
Now its almost where i want it to be. i just gotta wait a week then i can drive it for a couple hours straight.
i had 18 points on my license so i had no choice. Those two years taught me a lot of life lessons. But like you my car just sitting there kept me motivated and now i drive more carefully than ever.
I wish I didnt have to figure it all out the hard way…
So in CA do they take your license if you dont pay a ticket within 30 days? they do it here in FL.
your absolutely right. i learn everything the hard way but in the end im always better and smarter for going thru it. It really depends, in my case i had a couple speeding tickets. A reckless endangerment charge for going over 115 and a slew of uninsured tickets. But in due time, i learned my lesson. so now im back at it again and more excited than ever…
Being able to drive again, its comparable to when you first learn how to ride a bike.
Thanks for the support and motivation my fellow g2 members. I love being a part of this community everyday.
well im making progress. i added DC2 GSR seats front and back. they need more work to fit properly. i started the process of putting my cd player in the glovebox so i can rock the block off plate.
i got the sidemarkers, just hoping for a clear day to put em on. I also put on the front upper strut bar. im still waiting for more parts to come.
just gotta wait to do some more work and hopefully ill be ready next week to take it on a long spin. aaww it feels good to be building a car again lol.
what did you do to remove the map sensor, etc. from the firewall? my JDM b18c is going in this week, and I’d like to get rid of all of that map sensor clutter while its out. what is necessary to remove it?
also, what cable-to-hydro kit are you using? the Innovative kit? have any pics of it by any chance?
another question for you, what throttle cable are you using? GS-R or or factory DA cable? and what about the main fuel line that goes from the fuel filter to the rail? thanks in advance.
im not sure about the map sensor from the firewall. i bought the car without a motor, and it was already swapped to OBD1. so i just installed GSR motor with all sensors attached.
im using the innovative cable to hydro conversion
as for the throttle cable, im using the stock DA one. it needed custom fab to have enough tension to work. see picture below**
again stock fuel line with stock gsr fuel rail. it fit fine.
on another note. i have a 4-1 header that didnt clear front crossmember, so beware. i had to cut. but im bout to replace it with traction bar.
Also depending on your tranny, i have found that under full throttle. my speedo cable will pop out sometimes. im using a B16 hydro tranny. so just be warned again.
here are some pictures for reference. let me know if theres anything else i can help or try to help with.
heres the cable to hydro conversion
throttle cable with custom bracket
map sensor
i hope these pics help you. if they dont let me know exactly what picture u want n ill go take it real quick
would a GS-R throttle cable be better, then? the rest of the pics helped. wouldn’t happen to have a front shot of the innovative kit installed, would you?
ok so i took 3 more pictures. one from the side. one from the bottom and one more from the top.
ok so heres another top view. as you can see the clutch cable goes thru the top bracket down to the bottom bracket. its pretty easy to install cable into conversion. you just need to tighten the top until clutch pedal is stiff to liking
here’s a picture of the levers that go into the tranny. unfortunately mine doesnt have a boot around levers. i would recommend that so your tranny stays cleanest. unfortunately i cant really take a picture of that with the motor in. but once you have that cable-to-hydro setup in your tranny. youll see why u need a boot.
this is looking from passenger fender
here’s from the bottom. as you can see the end of the clutch cable goes into the bottom bracket.
also bro check out my pics on pg 1. the pics of the motor before it went in really shows the cable-to-hydro setup very well. you can also see what i mean by needing a boot.