i started on my turbo a couple days ago and decided to take pictures, right now im in the process of molding the rest of my bodykit to my car and installing a turbo, so a whole lot going on.
so far the list is:
SSAC Mani
SSAC 3" DP w/ flexpipe.
Saab 900 .42/.48 T3 - Rebuilt by ME
2.25" IC piping
FMIC
HSK-S ssqv
Innovative LC-1
DSM 450’s
Fast-Turbo oil lines
38mm wastegate w/ 6psi spring
many misc. things
well heres a few pics i shot real quick
Engine:
Down Pipe:
Another:
Wheel:
From the Front:
again
quick question, in the pic above ^ where #1 is the DP is touching the block at one little spot, is this ok? also at #2 the Flex pipe is touching against the oil pan, only the flex part is though? is this ok? thanks for the help guys without some experienced people here answering questions then i wouldnt be were im at today so thanks G2IC!
yea ill keep you guys posted, im working on a couple cell phone pics of the whole car real quick to give you guys an idea. yea i know about the lines, im actually workin on the lines right now. thanks for the feedback! any idea on the DP touching in those spots>?
I wouldn’t want the flex or anything else exhaust related touching the block and especially the oil pan. You are going to transmit a lot of heat into the engine if you leave them touching. Heat is the enemy that must be obliterated without mercy.
200$ or less unless he got ripped off…check ebay guys.
Looks okay, but that little turbo is strictly for women. And Dseries. Unless there is a serious design flaw with the DP and Mani, you’ll run out fo breath before the redline. Get a bigger exhaust housing.
Otherwise, looks good.
-edit-
Actually, looks like you splurged and went for the 400$ version. DP looks good, but their manifolds still scare me. Good luck.
the DP is hitting the block only at a very small spot, its one of those ridges that comes out of the block and is thin, thats the only part that touches it, but with the flexpipe and oil pan i donno what i should do. also yea the mani and dp were $350 its full 321 stainless equal length ramhorn and 3" DP 321 ss w/flewpipe. best part is that SSAC put a LIFETIME warranty on it and when i purchased it i made them send me a paper for the warranty :rockon: so hopefully if something does happen its cool. also with the turbo i dont see where im going to be running out of breath, my car redlines a 6600rpm and im pushing 8psi? how in the world is the t3 to small for that?
Heres a pic of some of the body work, bad quality pic tho. i got card
board covering part of the fender and you can see spot putty still
where im still molding the kit some. if you dont like the kit its cool
but keep your comments to yourself, obviously i bought it cus I liked it.
how DARE you post SSAC crap in here. :gunright: have you been in a hole these past few years? please do a search, here or on the internet or honda-tech, for all the crap they do and make. the warranty is only as good as the one who offers it. oh well what’s done is done.
the block should be ok if you shave it and/or put something there to block the heat. especially the oilpan. maybe like a thick piece of fiberglass/metal sheet/household insulator combo or something. maybe a little cloth of fiberglass from pep boys? you can test to see if it blocks enough heat on a pan on the stove or something.
if i were you, get rid of the ssac crap while you still can and save up for piece of mind. ss321 or not, crappy welds will deteriorate and break. at least keep all the weight off the manifold, especially at the wastegate,with braces. good luck.
That 3 inch Dp is huge for that little turbo. You probably wont like it. I had a turbo of that trim on my prelude and when I upgraded to the t3/t4 it was a night a day diffrence. That turbo dies out as it climbs in rpms over 4-5. good luck. Yeah…and as long as you run low boost the manifold should be fine. THose manifold crack and break due to large turbo’s and the eheat.
dont get me wrong i dont want to sound like a bitch, but i had the same manifold broke twice already, cracked all around even near turbo flange…
I welded the wastegate and all the cracks, and re-ported the collector after strengthening it.
I have not had a problem since but I WOULD DEFINATLY take advice of others and me and strengthen the wastegate flange…
other than the bad the setup looks really nice and, as far as SSautoChromes Downpipes i have heard nothing but good for the price, two of my buddys with MR2’s rocked these DP’s and my buddy w/ a turbo B
i think u may have to dent the oil pan slightly the whole puting fiberglass on and shit isnt such a good idea, i had heatwrapped my DP and is just tapping on the crossmember at WOT ate a hole in it and dented the dp… and that flew pipe rubbing will eat through ur oilpan eventully and anything in bettween it.
and most other B series pans IE; 1.7/1.6/1.8 all have deeper oil pans which is out of the question
notch the blocks webbing soo the contact point number one is cleared.
i dont know why you guys are bashing the .42/.48 turbo…i had one on my teg and ran 10psi all day long and it pulled STRONG to redline plus i had boost by 3k rpm, now maybe if your talking a built bottom end and a strip car, yes that turbo is on the small side, but as far as a bone stock LS that turbo is going to be mainly street driven the .42/.48 is perfect.
All that little turbo did for me was loss traction. Spooled up way to quick and died off way to quick. Like I said the t3/t4 was like night and day to me.
well hopefull i wont have that problem, im hoping to make it more of a street fun machine rather than all out race. thanks for the comments! keep em comming.
