when u want to upgrade email me ive been trying to trade my turbo forever already
Alright you guys ive decided on a turbo, the Garrett T3/T04S 60-1, 60 Trim .70 A/R Compressor, and .63 A/R Turbine with either a stage 1 or 2 wheel. i think this should be a good balance for around 325 - 350 whp.
You first start talking about making over 3oowhp with a tiny t3, then you talk about buying a 500whp turbo to make 325-350whp. wow. :crazy:
Nice turbo, :gunleft: haters.
waoh thats fat!
heh
i think t3.t4 60 trim 63 will make easly 400whp tho
that 60-1 looks big and laggy
it is laggy. But when it hits…it hitsDepeding on the stage of the wheel expect full boost around 5500rpms to 6200. Freind has that turbo on a single cam vtec with a .48 turbine. But with your lsvtec that puppy will be nasty. Nice choice. Just make sure thats not the turbo that xs-power sells.
good luck
no probleme with the XS :think: :shrug:
i dont buy cheap stuff, all quality stuff here, its going to be a garrett, might get the .48 turbine wheel though, just to make things interesting 
keep the opinions coming guys all the info is greatly appreciated. Ive done 2 builds, this is my 3rd and every time i learn new things.
alright, after all the run around with choosing a turbo, after talking to a few turbo people, asking questions, the turbo i am definitely going with is a T3/T04E 57trim, .63 A/R housing with a Stg2 wheel, this turbo supports UP TO 375hp, and its best efficiency is in the 300-350 whp range, which is exactly what im looking for. I will keep updating this thread as my build goes on, after i get the motor back from the machine shop i will take lots of pics and do a walkthrough of the building process from oil pan to valve cover.
once again a good choice. that the turbo I have and I cant wait to see the damage it does on the streets.
^^^ me too, me too 
Originally posted by TurboG2teg311
…300-350 whp range…what im looking for…
hehe you think your gonna catch that “sickness” that most people gets after boosting? 
…wanting more
haha, thats why im not buying a boost controller, im bought my wastegate with a 10lb spring and am leaving it at that, if on the dyno everything is going well and i dont hit my numbers…at least 300whp, i will look to other means of finding the horsepower other than just “turning up the boost”. my ls-turbo i had that i just took apart made 238whp @ 10psi, mind you that was a tired ~150k mile stock motor on the .42/.48 T3. i ditched that setup and am starting over b/c i want vtec and more low end and off boost response, and of course more power!!
well chris. i think that sounds pretty bad ass. however, i would go with buddy club valve train instead of omni power, ACL bearings instead of honda, and ANY other intake Mani. ANYTHING EXCEPT B16. that intake manifold is worthless. go JSR, S2, or ITR… just my fifty cents…
Hey Kyle! yeah i will agree with you on the valve spring combo, i have been looking at the buddy club setup and am leaning towards that, and i will upgrade the I/M as time goes on probably to a JG Edelbrock. As far as the bearings go im sticking to OEM Honda, I have my reasons, and there too long to list.
gary’s the same way with the bearings… my mildly built ls had acl race bearings. I hear alot about the ls rob bearings spinning a lot. and it happened to me in my integra. it happened to you also didnt it? Thats why i looked into an aftermarket (hopefully better) setup… give me one of those reasons. I can’t think of a good reason to use honda bearings over ACL. :shrug: unless if they just simply fit better or something. but i didnt have a problem with the ACL bearings in my LS block…
The first and most important reason not to use ACL bearings is that you can only get them in the green size, which is no good because every engine is different and when micing the clearences you will find that in order to run on the high side of the tolerance (with high horespower engines you want to run on the high side of the clearance to allow for proper oil flow and heat expansion) you sometimes end up needing different color bearings and acl does not offer different sizes, also i can get them for a 1/4 of the price of acl’s since i still have my employee discount at Honda, and every high horsepower engine builder i have read about has always used OEM bearings: Evans Tuning, Street Image Performance (who builds all of Hasports engines), JG Engine Dynamics, the Skunk2 team, and many more all insist on OEM Honda bearings, so with all of that into consideration i will stick to Honda bearings, plus i built my LS/VTEC that was in my EK and my buddy Chads B20/VTEC with them and neither of them failed so i pretty confident in them.
i’ve spun two oem honda rod bearings in two ls motors. thats why i didnt like them and wanted something else. 'sall good. I’m lookin to do a similar setup as you but with a b18c. i might end up getting a fullrace kit.
full race = baller status
yea but the thing is…i dont plan on building a “Full Race” setup. my goal is mid 12’s or faster on street legal drag radials. the setup you’re talkin about would probably do that in my car. But i really like the Full-Race kit. the lowest kit they have available is like 450hp rated. and thats more then i think i’ll need. and it will start off on a stock motor. till next summer. i’m lookin for like 280-300 by the end of summer on the stock motor. then this winter, pull the motor out, build it, and drop it back in and aim for around 350-400 next summer with more reliablility.