in that one pic your DA looks like mine just Red n has nicer rims
cousins?? Mario n Luigi?
man i need one of those hiro reps in my life…
keep browsing FS forums… or post in wanted forums n u will get one eventually 
what is the specs on the koseis?
theyre buddy clubs and i think its 15x7+38. i have a 10mm spacer in front for clearance for the wilwood calipers and a 5mm in the rear just because.
what size rubber ur using?? i got 16x7 205 50 rubber n i’m rubbing a bit… need spacers just not sure what size
195 45 15 with the neovas and 195 55 15 with the direzzas. i ran 205 50 15 before and they rubbed. those were on rpf1 15x7+41 and i rubbed during hard turns or at full lock. i would love to step into the 2xx size tire but idk what will work on what wheel size without rubbing at my height. its not exactly something thats cheap to experiment with either…
What sort of alignment, drop and offset are you guys having rubbing issues with 205’s? That’s such a narrow tire that I can’t imagine it rubbing without some real aggressive setup. I ran 205-50-15’s for years with 15x7’s that were +40 to +45 offset and at varying ride heights and amounts of negative camber. I never had any rubbing. It wasn’t until I added spacers to yield an effective +23mm offset that it got to where the tire was close to the fender. I decided to roll the fender a little for a little extra safety but it wasn’t 100% necessary. Of course at that time I was running a lot of negative camber (neg 3-4 deg).
I’m now running 225-45-15’s on 15x8 +25’s and for this I did have to roll the rear a little but the front was fine only with the very minor rolling I did mentioned above. And this is again with pretty aggressive (track oriented) alignment with camber near -4 deg in the front and a between 2-3 negative in the rear. You’d definitely have rubbing if you had less camber. But still, my 225’s are more than 0.75" wider than a 205, so a 205 should have loads of clearance.
fr1s: Where is your rubbing? What offset are your wheels? What is your camber? How low is the car?
running zero camber on Konig Twilites which are 16x7 with 40 offset and i’m not tucking tires anywhere… just half inch above them. About 4-6" off the ground?
Rear is fine… front rubs at lockout… so I’m thinking i need spacers or go size down.
But where is is rubbing? On the edge of the fender? Inner wheel well? Any pics of the rubbing? And why are you running 0 camber? If the car is just a stock car used for daily driving then 0 camber makes sense. But if you use your car like a “sports car” and want better performance from it you should be running at least -1 deg of camber. You won’t see any adverse tire wear and you’ll reap some handling benefits (and possibly some clearance benefits). When I used to daily my car in college I used to run about -2 deg of camber and by the time the inside edge had no tread left the outer edge had worn down to the wear bars. So the wear was slightly uneven but not enough to matter in the big picture. Also, the more aggressively you drive the more negative camber you can get away with while still maintaining even tire wear. In fact zero camber + lots of aggressive driving will actually result in your tires wearing the outer edge more than the inner.
A 205 tire on a 7" +40 wheel is a very mild setup so I’m really surprised it’s rubbing. As I mentioned already I had that setup for 10+ years - with at least 4 different sets of wheels, many different tires, many different alignment setups…etc and never had any rubbing. But then again I’ve never run 0 camber.
yea its on the inside of the wheel well right by the steering rack n pinion. i used to be slammed with no camber kits… loved the handling 
so -1 on the back n front is okay for spirited daily driven car?? i need also an alignment since my car is off the road and i was just replacing all the bushings. so that could be a problem too
Hmm. I know this isn’t an Integra, but is this sort of what you mean by on the inside by the steering rack?
If that’s the case then I think this is mostly due to the tire size, not camber. At least rubbing right there is really nothing to be concerned about as long as it’s minor which I’m assuming it is. The 205-50-16’s are a little more than 0.75" larger in overall diameter than the stock tires, so you lose 0.375" of clearance and that could be just enough to give you the rubbing you’re experiencing. There’s always a chance that there are some alignment issues which are contributing to the rubbing.
As for camber… the factory service manual says that anything +/- 1 degree is within spec. So even Honda says that -1 isn’t a huge problem from a “stock” car standpoint. This is really personal preference and what you want to get out of the car though as far as how much negative you should go with. In general though you’ll want a little more negative camber in the front than in the rear. For example, if you were going to run -1 up front I’d run -0.5 in the rear. In my opinion anywhere in the -1 to -1.5 range for the front is a pretty conservative setup. -1.5 to -2 is getting a little more aggressive. And -2 to -2.5 is about as aggressive as I’d want to go for a street car that I cared about tire wear. And -2.5 to -3.5 would be a really aggressive setup for regular street use - but still lots of people do it and just deal with replacing their tires a little earlier than normal. Just remember that you need to get your Toe settings at zero, that will be key to good tire wear. Camber is a factor in tire wear but it’s Toe that really eats up tires or a combination of Toe and Camber. Camber by itself doesn’t have that much of an effect until you start getting pretty aggressive.
whoa… must copy this!! Good info kind sir!! yes that’s the kind of rub I got. I had -3 n over before… replaced my Toyo T1R’s with a year n half or faster a bit…
will got with -1 front n -.5 rear
so heres the big update…
some progress has been made in preparation for the turbo along with some things i had been meaning to do for a while now. so like i said before, i got new brakes. the ebc set up i had on the car since day 1 finally gave out with all the abuse. the front pads literally exploded. i went ahead and upgraded so i dont have to worry about braking issues anymore.
i got the same EBC rotors i had before but the black version (not by choice) along with ebc green stuff in the rear and the wilwoods in the front on their entry level pad that came with the calipers. sadly, i will be needing to upgrade pads soon since i am now outworking the capabilities of the green stuff and the bp-10. its amazing what better equipment can do to your confidence level.
of course after the bed in process the rotors changed their look
next up is the gauge pod. its done and its beautiful. i was able to set it up so i can keep the double din. i lose my ashtray and lighter along with that little cubby but its not like its life changing or anything. i didnt use the lighter for anything since my radio charges my phone and i only put junk in the ash tray anyway. im not really losing anything. in order to get the radio cradle installed in the console, i just drilled holes straight through and used some nice hardware. originally, i wanted to put all 5 gauges and the boost controller in the little pod thing but space told me otherwise. im going to mount the AFR gauge on the side of the console where it curves up to meet the glove box and the boost controller probably on top of of the steering column.
so with the gauges comes all the sensors and wiring. i got the oil temp and pressure installed in the sandwich plate and the turbo oil feed adapter installed as well. the adapter i got is really nice and i would suggest everyone use it for their set up ( http://www.brfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=39&product_id=104 ). i also made this rig for the water temp. a friend of mine made one for his car and i thought it was a great idea. i deleted the fitv and routed the water line back into the head so i spliced that line and bridged it. perfect place since its just before the thermostat. most people dont understand you want the sensor as close to the combustion area as possible. you want to know the temp of the water actually IN the block. what good does it to do to know what the temp is in the radiator? nothing… the answer is nothing…
did my sway bar endlinks with the energy bushings. i wanted to get a new front and rear bar but its kind of expensive so this is the next best thing
i had to delete the stock ps cooler for the intercooler of course. with deleting it, i figured i would replace it with a better cooler. i did some research on the ps cooler and tried to determine whether or not it was really necessary and couldnt really get a straight answer. i just decided to keep it. i got a transmission cooler from an FD rx7 and rigged it up. i installed the turbo coolant feed fitting as well. this was a little bit difficult to figure out since so many people do different things. i was able to find this fitting that replaces the stock block drain plug. the same people that sell the oil feed adapter has it.
mounting the cooler was a fun thing to figure out. luckily it has all these damn threaded holes in it. i was able to use one of the rubber grommets that hold the radiator in place as a holder for a bolt that stuck through it. the bolt stuck out enough through the top that i was able to sit the cooler on top of it and thread it into the bottom.
triple core half size installed with the SPAL slim fan. so, i decided with the turbo set up, i wanted to go half size. with the tiny turbo im using, its probably not necessary but i figured why not. on the plus side, i get to put the mishimoto set up in my black da now. ive been using a cxracing and generic slim fan set up for like 6 years now. this will be a nice upgrade. the turbo return fitting is welded nicely in place too. i wanted a dual core but a triple was all i could find locally. compared to the mishimoto set up this is a lot more beefy. the SPAL fan sounds really cool too.
so here we are with another change in the engine bay
next thing coming up is the battery relocation, fuel pump and intercooler install. i have the wire for the battery but i dont have any 0/1 gauge wire terminals for the grounds and stuff. i want to do the big 3 with moving the battery but i have to find terminals first. i was planning to mount the intercooler just to mount it. the turbo wont be going in for a while but driving around with a front mount just on the car will cause a lot of questions to be asked and the troll factory will be at full power.
updaaaaaaaaaaaaate
battery has been moved to the trunk, gauges are done, brakes and tires are great
yesterday i had my last drive with my car before i leave it for a long time. it went pretty well in between all the rain. it was a sad day but the integra just let me drive until i was drained.
for the battery relocation, i took the stock battery tray and trimmed the edges of it to accept the optima. i then attached steel L brackets to the tray with some ridiculous overkill mega nuts and bolts and attached it the way you see. with the wing nuts and lock washers, this set up is crazy secure. its just as good if not better than bolting it to the chassis. only takes a minute to remove if need be.
I was going to say something about running a battery box but then a thought popped into my head. Optimas are sealed cells aren’t they?
yes… some would refer to them as a dry cell. completely safe running it the way i am.
so… final update for a very long while. i am no longer in japan and the car is on its way to england. i sold it to a co-worker and he took it with him.
when we brought the car to the port these 2 old japanese ladies inspected the hell out of it for any defects and they found EVERYTHING. things i didnt even know were there. pretty amazing. when they were done, i had to drive it into the “sterile area”. this was my final goodbye :pupeyes:
i never got to finish the turbo stuff but he has all the parts i gathered so he can finish it if he wants. majority of the work is done, the parts just need to be bolted in. luckily though, i was able to finish my rx7 before i left. literally had no time to spare. i finished just in time…
with the end of this and my return to america, i will be starting a thread for my black da. ive been away for a very long time and it needs a lot of work…
Welcome back! Sorry to see the other car go but excited to see what you’ve got planned for the next one