i just measured it and with the bumpstop all the way up in the top hat to the top of the shock is 2.4 inches. do i need more?
you’d think a company like koni would take something like bumpstops into consideration.
i think they trust the end user enough to figure that much out on their own…
also noticed the spring rates on these are 580F/440R. people are saying that these arent the off the shelf rates… i just bought a set and didnt choose the rates. i guess they just sent whatever they had.
Tomorrow is the day I will be putting some parts on. My radiator, suspension, some tune up stuff and most importantly I get to put my buddy clubs back on. Its gonna be a good day.
I like those kind of days.
so it was a bad day. it took 3 days to do my suspension and i still havent put on all the parts i have. i only have a couple things, but still, i was expecting to get everything done. to start with the bad: for whatever reason, i decided to start on my rear left shock. its good thing i did. when removing the lca, the bolt that holds the lca to the rta was rusted to the inside of the bushing making it impossible to remove. it broke 2 socks and was immune to impact gun. this was the thing that held me up for 3 days. long story short, we cut it out. i ended up having to cut off the thing welded to the rta that has the threads in it to hold the bolt. i have a long bolt and a nut holding the lca to the rta now. my left rta is a little mangled after the event.
this is what it looked like
this is what its supposed to look like
well if you look at the bolts that go back there, they have these grooves in them. those groves are there for grease. i could see there was very little residual on the right side. when i put the new bolts back in i packed the bolt and bushing full of cv axle grease. i would of used some anti seize but i didnt have any on hand. also while i was in there i checked out my rta bushing. they are done. soft is to hard to describe how flimsy they were. i plan on getting the hard race bushings instead of the energy ones. i dont want to deal with that binding issue that some people talk about.
now for the good. i got a few parts here installed as you can see.
here are those clamp things i made for my sub so it wouldnt slide around.
luckily, the morning of me going to put in my radiator, i find this
the timing couldnt have been more perfect.
the things i still have left are my ss brake lines, short shifter, cam seal, intake and battery. im holding off on my traction bar and rear camber kit until thursday morning. i have an appointment on friday to get an alignment and i didnt want to drive around on a more jacked alignment than it already is. anyway, heres the good stuff…
i went to install my traction bar today. when i disconnected the front motor mount, the rubber inside fell to the ground. looks like im taking that off. then the mount thing that attaches the transmission to the frame, the rubber thing was completely severed. as if someone cut it. it looks like i can just replace it with an exhaust hanger which i may just do. im going to have to delete it to put the odyssey battery anyway, but in the mean time i think i will keep it. i ran out of time at the hobby shop today. i work night shift and i got home and went to sleep. i set my alarm for 1130am and woke up 530pm. the hobby shop closes at 7. i got the rear camber kit in and the front crossmember out and and the traction bar minimally installed. i think for the short time i had, i got a lot done.
my appointment for my alignment is at 930am tomorrow and the hobby shop doesnt open until 11. hopefully they dont cancel or get mad…
i’ll post back with pictures soon…
so heres a nice update. i got the traction bar on, height set, alignment done, and got a new set of wheels. the traction bar install was easy and it made a real difference in the drive. i made a review thread on honda tech since g2ic was down. you can check it out here http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3155305
anyway here are the pictures. the wheels are work xs-v 17x7 rear 17x6.5 front. i forget the offset. imo it fills the rear nicely but the tires look too thin in the front.
then the traction bar install
this is what was left of my front motor mount
Loving those work wheels and the rest is all top notch aswell. Keep it up 
thanks man. what do you think about the front tires? the only thing i dont like is how the fronts dont fill the wheel well all that much…
it does look like your caster might be off a little bit. that should be a correctable issue with the traction bar and an alignment.
I got an alignment already. How can you notice something like that from the pictures i posted
Edit: nvm, i see what your talking about. Should the shock be perfectly vertical?
why not get thicker tires for the front??
I bought them with the tires already on them. Theyre pretty much new so i just stuck with them. It wasnt until they were on the car that i realized just how thin they are.
good work man…just not a fan of 17s on a DA 16s be perfect…keep the good work up
Nice build thread, Did you swap out your Rear LCA for usdm ones? Any reason why you chose to go that route? Are da6 specific suspension hard to find?
Me neither but these were soooo nice I took the chance. I think with a higher tire in front, I can get the fitment better.
I couldn’t find anything for the da with those style lca. I waz thinking about itr suspension but the shocks in the front are fatter then the da fork and using a dc fork isnt an option. See the earlier pages. I wanted koni/gc before I even bought the car so I figured no matter what the usdm lca was going on. The suspension that came with the car was tein coilovers but theyre blown. After get them rebuilt, I may put them back on and see what theyre like. If not, I’ll sell them with the lca.
I’ve had my koni/gc for 7 years now. Don’t know what I’d do without them.