if 15 minutes = a bitch, i’d hate to see what you call an engine swap. :giggle:
I said probably because I haven’t actually removed mine, but don’t forget, to remove the BB you have to remove the MC (which is a bitch because of the fluid that you have to make sure not to get everywhere) and probably some of the other stuff that’s in the way of it. Anyway, there are better reasons to keep your ABS BB/MC, such as the fact that the ABS MC is 1" diameter and the non-ABS MC is 15/16" so the car’s brake power will be slightly reduced.
i’ve done the swap myself just this summer. ur wrong on being able to feel a difference in braking power. i felt no difference when swapping over to the non abs BB and MC. in fact it felt more stiff and solid when braking. it’s easier to lock up if u try. getting the abs BB out is the hardest part. i just dropped the driverside engine mount down to gain enough room to take it out. getting in the non abs BB is very easy as it is smaller. it took me all of 2 hours and thats with swapping over all brake lines on the firewall and custom making extentions for the prop. valve. it may seem like alot of work but it isn’t. most time consuming is removing all the abs junk. just watch out for the high press line. u’ll find out how well brake fluid foams under pressure lol
I didn’t say you’d feel the difference, I said it would be slightly reduced. The piston is only 1/16" diameter smaller, but it is smaller, all the same. Besides, you just removed an entire ABS system which is going to make some difference on its own, so that could account for the fact that you can’t tell the difference.
It’s easier to lock up because you don’t have ABS anymore.
This is another reason why your brake power is slightly reduced. Smaller brake booster = less brake boost. All the same, you may not be able to feel it.
The only way to really know if it’s less would be to do controlled tests of the time and distance it takes to brake from a certain speed (say, 60mph) to a complete stop. Your results would only really be meaningful if you tested both the ABS and non-ABS MC/BB after removing the ABS system, and tested each multiple times. Other factors would have to be considered for as well, for instance a brake fluid flush should be done before any tests as well as the system being checked for fluid leaks. You could probably spend a lot of money getting someone to do auto research like this for you.
Anyway the point of all this is that if you are just driving on the street, you will probably not care about having a smaller BB/MC (one must also wonder, if you’re only driving on the street, why bother removing your ABS?). However if you autocross or track your car you might care. Why not have the slightly higher braking power? After all, it takes less money and effort to keep it, all you need is 1 brake line fitting to keep the ABS BB/MC…the alternative is, as you point out, more time consuming since you have to move your engine to do it…
I could of course play devil’s advocate with myself and wonder if, I am so worried about losing a fractional amount of braking power, I used rubber brake line extensions instead of something less flexible…guess I should replace those with stainless steel when I replace all the other rubber brake lines pretty soon…
What do we need the fittings for???
hey, i have been reading and i just dont get what are the fettings for…???
then obviusly you need to go back and read again. its been covered multiple times.
a fetting is done to your Boba to make it complete.
:read: more carefully, i promise you the answer is there :). i assure you i included this when i wrote this up a few years ago. this is disappointing, i thought i was thorough 
sigh, i dont know how not to be helpful so here it goes… you need an adaptor fitting at the master cylinder if you retain the abs master cylinder when changing over to the non-abs setup. one of the lines is a little bit bigger on the abs master cylinder and both lines are the same size on the non abs master cylinder. you use the non abs lines so you need an adaptor. make sense?
i thought the star wars reference was a lot cooler.
you’re such a square.
well based upon his question and the subsequent replies, i i figured maximum ownage was eminent… as reading and writing skills are critical on g2ic, and lackthereof will pretty much get you permanantly labeled as a dumbass and made fun of endlessly. i was trying to throw him a bone. i really couldnt believe he couldnt get that out of all i wrote… so i had to clear it up. its something of a duty i suppose… and yes, the star wars reference was a whole lot cooler…
consdiering this more and more and have everything needed. so i may but when doing such do you have to pull the axles and remove the reluctor ring? idk if its neccesarry but is it reccomended?
Reluctor ring?
:werd: is that the “technical” term for it 
yes. it the proper term for it… how about… do i have to remove the ring with teeth all around it on the axle? lol
making sure, some of these guys need this stuff dumbed down a bit:D
yea i noticed after i posted i was like “oh shit. i hope someone knows wtf im talking about” lol. its the only difference between abs and non abs axles. a ring with teeth that is read by a sensor to determine speed and adjust abs accordingly when needed. (thats the theory but doesnt seem to do so on all my hondas. lol)
hm. whattaya know. learned sumpin today. 
The axles do not have to be removed at all, or replaced. As I understand, you can put the ABS axles on non-ABS cars and it doesn’t really matter. You can use non-ABS axles on an ABS car too, but if you have ABS it won’t work of course…
the only difference is the little ridged ring around the axle that the abs sensors read.
if you remove the abs, you can retain the axles or get new ones.
i got to bump this cause im doin this while im doin my supercharger install