Well I’m halfway through ABS removal and figured out that extensions I got are not the right size on one end. They should be M10 male to M10 female, not M12 female. Only the brake line from the master cylinder to the ABS modulator has the M12 fitting. So it looks like it’s back to Cline to get another set of extensions.
Saturday and Sunday I did get the old MC, all the old brake lines, and ABS stuff out of the car. I spilled a lot of brake fluid, but all three components of the ABS are now out and it looks much cleaner in there already.
I am going to directly hook the line to the MC, since I’m not using the 1" MC anymore. I’m talking about the rear brake line extensions. I thought that all the brake lines in the ABS tegs were M12 fittings, but I was wrong - it’s just the MC -> ABS line.
just curious as to why u dont want to use the 1"? you would have greater stopping power with the 1" MC. sorry about my post earlier i misunderstood what you were trying to do. let us know how it turns out.
It’s cool, I hope this info will help someone else who’s doing this later. I looked all through this thread trying to find the fitting sizes people were using for the rear line extensions and didn’t find it, so I just went out to my car and measured…guess I measured the wrong line!
The reason I’m using the 15/16" MC is that my 1" MC is dead anyway, and I’d rather just have it all fit together. I do have some fittings for the 1" MC and I may switch back to a 1" later if I feel like I need more brake power. I have a feeling that the 15/16" will be enough though, at least for now. I guess I’ll see once it’s all put back together…
Finally, I’ve gotten a little further on my ABS removal project but have a problem. It’s nothing I can’t work around…
First of all let me recap what I’m doing…removing ABS of course, but I’m using a non-ABS MC, brake lines, and dual-prop valve. I replaced the incorrect-sized hoses I got before with correct ones made also by Cline. They are 10mm female to 10mm male.
So I got it all put together today, but found that the non-ABS 15/16" master cylinder doesn’t fit correctly to the brake booster that came with the ABS system. I think I recall someone on this board saying that the non-ABS MC wouldn’t work with the ABS BB, but someone else said they did it and it worked…so I didn’t think anything of it. Now that it’s all together though, I see that the pin in the ABS BB is too long and tightening down the MC causes the cylinder to compress. Thus, the brakes are on all the time…to move the car I had to bleed a little fluid out of the lines going from the MC to the dual-prop valve.
So my options from here are interesting…I could leave the car as is - the brakes work, after all - but that means the master cylinder is always slightly compressed, so I won’t have much pedal travel. I don’t really like this idea. I haven’t driven it like this yet, but I will try it out once before I take it all back apart.
The other option is to go back to the ABS master cylinder, and that means I have to make some way to fit the non-ABS brake lines’ 10mm fittings to the 12mm holes on the ABS MC, or make the 12mm fittings on the ABS brake lines (which I still have of course) fit to the 10mm holes on the dual-prop valve.
Since I accidentally bought the wrong hoses last time, I think I’ll just use them to fit the ABS brake lines to the dual-prop valve. That means putting the ABS MC and brake lines back in, but that won’t be too hard. Also, I think I’ll just rebuild my ABS MC rather than bother buying another one. It might be fun to take it apart and see how it works.
So…
anybody know where to buy kits to rebuild Integra master cylinders?
Any step by steps tutorials on the abs removal? I read through this thread, and all I see is “i need this fitting” and reasons why people are doing abs removal.
Hmmm, I didn’t know you could adjust the pushrod. That’s a big help…sadly I don’t have a Helms manual, none of the auto parts stores around here carry anything but Haynes. Is there any way I can see this on the internet, or somewhere to easily obtain one, or something like that?
apparently some people missed the part where the ABS MC Piston is 1/16" bigger in diameter than the non-abs…meaning less pedal travel necessary to obtain the same amount of braking force.
i guess i’m not from the same school of thought as some people. :shrug:
Armed Ferret, glad to see you back in this thread, since you seem to know what you’re talking about I only sort of do…
But my problem is the opposite, I currently have on my car a non-ABS MC, and using it with the brake booster that was already on my car, it forces the piston to compress some, locking the brakes on, and making it impossible for the MC to draw new fluid from the fill tank on top. The MC piston can’t be fully released.
It is difficult to gather much useful information from this thread. There is plenty of missing info, contradicting info, and just useless fluff mixed in with the useful info and pictures. Once I get this project all done I’m going to try to do a cleaner write-up of it with more pics. Not that the original one was bad, just that there is some clarification needed.
In the meantime…I’d appreciate any reliable info about the differences between the MCs and the BBs.
edit: Nino: you posted while I was posting. Thanks, do you know how available that special adjuster tool he mentioned is, and how much it costs? Would I be better off using his method and “making” a special tool myself with closed-end wrenches?
thelusiv,
I think what he’s trying to say is to use an ABS MC. I would try adjusting that pushrod first since you already have the non-ABS MC. I don’t think you need any extra tools. Here’s the section from the manual:
Thanks for that image Nino. Looking around, I have found that there are MC rebuild kits out there, but at $56 why not just buy a remanufactured one…and Bendix apparently makes a MC for both ABS and non-ABS models, and both are 1" (even the non-ABS one). The remanufactured ABS ones are only $41, not bad…If I can’t make the non-ABS MC work by adjusting the pushrod, that’s probably the direction I’ll go next.
Speaking of adjusting, a friend told me that the plunger on the MC is also adjustable by turning it. When you do this, does it compress the piston at all or just move the plunger? If this works I could probably avoid even having to adjust the pushrod, I could just adjust the MC. Anybody tried this?
The way my car is now though, it’s probably not drivable. According to this page:
Why the pushrod needs to be adjusted
If the pushrod is misadjusted too tightly, and never allows the seals to move rearwards enough to uncover the return ports properly, your brakes will slowly lock on more each time you brake, eventually bringing the car to a stop.
So I’ve definitely got to get some slack in the pushrod, or adjust the MC plunger forward (if that will really work), to use the non-ABS MC.
Armed Ferret: You mentioned in this thread before that you had to modify the 10mm -> 12mm adapters to fit the ABS MC. I noticed that the ends of the fittings I got from Imperial Supplies are convex. I mean it does not have the area where the little “nipple” inside the MC will fit into. How did you modify yours?
Any step by steps tutorials on the abs removal? I read through this thread, and all I see is “i need this fitting” and reasons why people are doing abs removal.
I need to know HOW. lol.
If you go way back. back to the very first post…:whisper:
Look at the pictures and its pretty self explanitory.
Armed ferret
Dont happen to have any more of those fittings do you:cross:, by the way you never mentioned how they need to be modified, you just said it was being taken care of:think:
Ive got everything i need pretty much, just gotta get parker hose company to make me the 6 inch lines
male 10x1.00mm >>> Female 10x1.00mm Right??
I could probably get the them from parker but i fugured you might want to get rid of the one you’ve got.:shrug: that is if you have any.
If its in the FS sale just point me that way or get back to me Ghopfenberg@msn.com
I only sort of do…
