thats alot of work lol.
my ABS delete?
use non abs axels. it disables ABS and throws the ABS light so i just took out the bulb. does what i needed it to do lol
[QUOTE=Armed Ferret;1641656]boosters are the same, so unless yours is leaking or otherwise bad there’s really no need to change it.
the MC provides for much better feel though. 
[/QUOTE]
Sorry to go back a few pages, but I don’t believe this is accurate (the part about the booster being the same). The booster on an ABS equipped car has a 1" larger internal diaphragm. I have never cracked one open, but based on the part numbers and the descriptions next to them, the ABS booster is larger.
Example:
93’ LS (non-ABS) booster = 46400-SK7-A02 POWER ASSY., MASTER (7"+8")
93’ GS-R (ABS) booster = 46400-SK7-A53 POWER ASSY., MASTER (8"+9")
Yeah I have just been finding out how the boosters are different…
Do you know what the measurements at the end mean? (7"+8") or (8"+9")? I’m not a brake booster expert…
Oh and Armed Ferret thanks for the drill idea. Did you file the end down at all when done? Was the angle just right to make a good fit? It looks like 45 degrees to me and I’m guessing the end of most drill bits are the same angle?
Not really sure. It could be the size of the internal diaphragm, or how much vacuum (or travel) it produces. It would be interesting to know. I still have the original (non-ABS) booster on my car, but I do have a slightly used ABS MC + booster sitting in the garage. I’m just not willing to take the 2 boosters apart since my odds of damaging them are pretty high.
I am sure someone must know for a fact what the description means. :shrug:
Finally I got some time to work on my car, and (mostly) finish up the ABS removal project.
I started the car up and just moving the car in the driveway, the brakes would lock on and hold. Since there was no way the non-ABS (15/16") MC was going to work, I took it off the car.
Comparing the 1" ABS master cylinder to the 15/16" non-ABS one, I can tell no difference in the distance from the end of the plunger to the flange. Also they seem to be the same depth. The sole difference lies in the size of the round seat in the plunger where the end of the brake pushrod goes. The ABS one has a larger diameter seat.
So, it’s back to the 1" ABS master cylinder for my car, since I don’t think a new brake booster is needed just to change the size of the end of the pushrod, and my BB is fine. I called up Advance and they don’t have any in stock, so I ordered a cheap reman one. They’ll have it for me on Sunday. In the meantime I decided to put my old dying ABS MC back on the car to finish up the ABS removal and test it.
Since I didn’t think I could properly drill the fittings I have very quickly, I decided to use one of my old ABS brake lines and one of the 12mm → 10mm hoses I accidentally got. The 6" line was exactly long enough to extend the slightly shorter brake line, with a 180 degree bend. I also had to bend the end of the brake line a good bit to make it reach, too. It looks kinda stupid since it’s not lined up with the other 2, but it works. I’ll probably replace it with the non-ABS line and a fitting later just to make it a little cleaner… 
I didn’t take any photos of the conversion, but I’ll post some of the finished product tomorrow.
rhd conversion on 91 rs
I have an abs brake system and the rhd clip is non abs in good condition. can I use the stock jdm M.S. please draw out the brake lines on where they connect on the unit. The lines are cut due to cutting of the clip… Please guys I need help.
Finally here’s a pic of the ABS removal…as I said it isn’t all that pretty but it works. :shrug:
thelusiv-
did you just buy the porportioning valve and buy some extensions for the stock abs lines? I’m trying to figure out if i can get away without having to swap out any lines, just fittings and connectors.
i’ve read through the thread and still not 100% confident what’s exaclty involved… or at least the cheapest way to do it :rockon:
Well, you could get away with all stock brake lines, but you’d have to have a lot of extensions. Of course either way you need the two M10 male to M10 female 6" rear line extensions. To extend the rest, you’d need:
M12 female to M10 male about 8-12" long (extend brake line to rear MC port)
M10 female to M10 male about 8-12" long (extend brake line to front MC port)
M10 female to M10 male 4-8" long?? (extend brake line to right front wheel)
M10 female to M10 male 8-12" long?? (extend brake line to left front wheel)
If you decide to go this route, I would take the ABS stuff all out, but don’t remove the brake lines at all. Then bolt up the dual-proportioning valve, and it should be obvious how long the lines will need to be. Keep in mind that if you are using rubber lines you don’t want to make a sharp turn on a tight hose, it’s possible for it to kink and that’s not good. Also find some way to effectively secure the lines. All that stuff will be vibrating while you’re driving and you don’t want things to be moving around.
Since my last post I have finally bought a “new” (remanufactured) ABS master cylinder and used one of the fittings I had to adapt the non-ABS line to the ABS MC. I couldn’t get a good pic of the MC and the fitting, but here’s the finished job on the dual-prop valve side:
Since all this work on the brakes the car really feels great, no more fading from the bad MC, and the weight loss from the ABS removal is worth it. I also finally got around to removing the ABS computer too, so the light is now off, and I may drive in ABS-free happiness 
:rockon:
so in the 1st picture are you using all abs lines with extensions and in the 2nd picture using non-abs lines, or did you just swap the extension to the side with the master cylinder?
do you have any pics of the mc? thanks for your help buddy, you’ve been the most help yet!
In the first pic I used all non-ABS lines, except for the one that goes to the rear port on the master cylinder. That’s the funky one that’s a 12mm fitting instead of 10mm. I adapted it to the dual-prop valve with that single 6" M12 Female to M10 Male hose but as you can see, I had to bend the line a good bit to make it work with only a 6" hose. If I had used all the original ABS brake lines, I would have had hoses coming out of all the holes in the dual-prop valve as I described in my last post. Since the ABS modulator unit is so big, those brake lines just don’t reach as far as the ones that went on the non-ABS cars.
If you go and look at your car you’ll see what I mean. See in my second pic how the lines come all the way out to the dual-prop valve and then make a 180 degree turn to go into it. Your ABS lines are way shorter than that, you’ll see what I mean if you look at it.
Oh and, I do have a pic of the MC but it’s not very good, you can’t see where the brake lines go into the ports or the adapter fitting at all, too dark. Someone else posted a pic of their MC with the adapter fitting earlier in the thread, I think. Try to find that one and if it’s gone let me know, I’ll see if I can get a better one, or find a link to the good one I’ve seen before. Seems like I remember it being in someone’s photobucket account…
so youre saying if i got four (4) 6" M12 Female to M10 Male hose’s i could keep my abs lines? that what im hearing?
where do you get those suckers from?
Nope! Re-read my first reply to you.
You need 1 (one) M12 Female -> M10 Male hose. The other hoses are all M10 female -> M10 male. I doubt any of them will work being only 6" long. I don’t recommend you bend the brake line out like I did in the first pic I posted, while that works temporarily, I did not intend for that to be permanent. Like I said, go look at the brake lines you have on your car.
Again, if it wasn’t clear enough before, you will need at least 6 (six!) adapter hoses. Only one of them must be M12 female to M10 male. You might get away with 3 of them being 6" long but I think you’re going to need at least 3 of them to be a good bit longer.
As to where to find them, I had Cline Hose in Greenville SC make mine, there are hydraulic hose companies all over the place. Find your local vendor…look in the phone book or something. Cline might make you some and ship them to you if you tell them just what you want…
Honestly, you would be much better off just getting the non-ABS brake lines and a fitting. It will probably cost the same thing either way, and your dual-prop valve will not end up looking like a nest of snakes with all the extension hoses coming out of it in every direction.
gotchaaaaaaaaaaa-- nobody has been very clear up to this point so still tryin to weigh out if and when i wanna get rid of it (tryin to possibly sell the car…so…)
this may be a retarded question, but do the rear lines go all the way to the rear of the car, or are they just down to a certain point (at least the lines i need to swap over)?
These quys qouted me (here in denver mind you) $40 for the two SS lines
http://www.pirtekusa.com/home.asp
BTW where the fuck is armed ferret. hes usualy all over this thread and never awnsered my question.
i’m studying for promotion. sorry man.
it’ll have to wait till end of next week.
RedStarGsr: The hard rear brake lines that are already on the car go from the rear brakes (duh) to just inside the firewall in the engine bay, where they screw into a connector. I removed the connector so the rear brake lines could screw into the female end of the extension hoses.
BLKACK1: I have two more fittings if you want one. They’re not drilled though, you could do that yourself.
I set up this diagram from the second photo I took, because it would have saved me a ton of time searching and reading and studying my car and others’ photos, if I had had it when the project started. Whenever I get around to doing a write-up on this, I’ll include the diagram with it.
[QUOTE=Armed Ferret;1669321]i’m studying for promotion. sorry man.
it’ll have to wait till end of next week.[/QUOTE]
Its all good man. Im realy in no hurry.
Good luck on that promotion:up:
BLKACK1: I have two more fittings if you want one. They’re not drilled though, you could do that yourself
I was actually more curius as to what was needed to modify the fitting. hopefully within the next 2 weeks ill be removing mine. so ill get back to you on that
