pictures pictures pictures...as requested

ASSISTANCE Forced Induction
1

People have been asking for pictures for a few months. I finally got them taken…


Moroso catch can with PCV valve on top. The PCV system is neccesary to keep from blowing your piston rings. By using the catch can you can seperate more crap out of the system before it goes back into the intake.


There are 2 small pipes in the intake pipe pre-turbo, one is facing into the air flow, one away. The hose seen here on the intake pipe is the one facing into the air flow, it goes into the nipple on the vlave cover. The hose going into the can is from the crank case where the OE PCV valve normaly is.


External oil filter, WIX 51515 Ford Mustang Oil Filter


MSD fuel pump and the Crane LX 91 coil mounted where the OE fuel filter bolts to the fire wall. The fuel filter (K&N) is now inline.


2 of the hoses for the reworked PCV system. Can also see the Missing Link check valve.


Profile shot of engine bay. Please excuse the zip-ties on the spark plug wires, they’re a work in progress.


Vortech FMU 10:1 ratio, fuel pressure gauge in fuel rail, you can also see the B&M fuel pressure regulator hiding behind the strut bar.


Permacool 12" High Performance Electric Fan (1650cfm), and Permacool 10" Standard Electric Fan (900cfm).


Tial 35mm wastegate and HKS VBC. The wastegate has a bypass pipe coming out of the bottom of it that is plumbed back into the exhaust system.


Sorry about the crappy lighting.


Interior shot. I like the Sparco steering wheel :slight_smile: Note turbo timer where change tray used to be and radio head unit in glove box.


Gauge panel with autometer oil temp, oil pressure, water temp, and AF gauges. Apex SAFC in center console. Note the switches where the ash tray used to be. Momo Cobra shift knob too.


Crane Cams HI-6 ignition box. Out of the way, dry, and easily accesable to change rev limit.


MTX Thunder 6000 12" sub with MTX amp in a false floor. Like the enclosure for the tool box?


No more back seat, no more passengers to slow me down.


External master shut off switch and Moroso battery box.


External master shut off switch and Moroso battery box.


Tried to get a shot of how the bumper support has to be cut to fit a front mount intercooler.

More details at http://www.beesandgoats.com/integraover.html

Any questions?

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No questions at the present time, just compliments…it looks awesome bro

Jeff

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Good Job Haberdasher. Too bad you are not in my area. I could use some help from someone who has done it before(and done it right).

4

you got any times 1/4 times?
by the way the car looks sweet

5

Needs 1 pieces…

j/k, I hate when I post pics and someone tells me that :wink: Nice setup. I want to get that catch can setup sometime, as well. Is your stereo in the glove box?

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----I’m copying my posts onto this board because I know they’re going to get burried in a couple days on the other board and I want to be able to refer to them in the future.----

Here’s a diagram I just threw together:

Yes the tube from the PCV valve in the top of the catch can is going to the intake pre-turbo (it’s the only place there is vacuum under all intake conditions). If it didn’t the crank case wouldn’t be under vacuum when the intake was under boost, when it is most important the the crank case be under vacuum. If the tube from the PCV valve in the top of the catch can went into the intake manifold the PCV valve would close when under boost, shutting down the PCV system and cause damage to the piston rings.

qwkteg125 and AMERIKAN:

Yes the intake air is enough to vent out the pcv system. And yes people have run the pcv outlet to the exhaust, but that is more complicated to implement for obvious reasons. There is plenty of velocity for this system to work, it works under the same principles as the OE pcv system. This is the only way the system will work when under boost. There is a minimum of oil vapors going from the catch can to the intake charge. That’s what the catch can (and the baffeling inside) is for, it seperates out the vapor. What ever is left in the air charge has no effect on the compressor.

This system works very well. In about 2 months the the catch can had 1" of crap in the bottom of it.

Most people (FI or NA) don’t run their pcv systems. They disconnect them and use those little K&N filters on the valve cover thinking it gives them more power or something. These people are destroying their piston rings.

AMERIKAN

No I havn’t dynoed at ~15psi. I’m not going to risk it running with just a SAFC for EM.

Eric:
The oil filter relocation kit is pieced together from universal parts. And yes they are earl’s fittings and lines. I get all of my universal stuff at Baker Precision (www.bakerprecision.com) in Signal Hill, CA (near Long Beach). Give them a call and ask for a spin on adapter for a Honda (20mm x 1.5) and they’ll know what you need. They have the rest of the parts you’ll need to.

Update: I just looked on their website and they are selling a “Honda Oil Filter Relocation Kit”. But the are only offering it with rubber lines. There are a lot of different oil filter bases to chose from. Decide where you want to put the filter and then get the appropriate base with the ports facing in the right direction. You can piece together a better kit from the universal stuff they sell than the one they are offering.

Everyone: Thanks for the props…I appreciate it :smiley:

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integracon:

LOL Yeah…some guy here at school came up to me and told me that I need Altezzas, I said “I do?, When did that happen?” while laughing at him and driving away.

Thanks for the comp :smiley:

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:stuck_out_tongue: NICE:p

so how much is invested into the catch can set up…i think it sounds like a great idea!!!

9

Nice fuel pump placement.

When you own a G2 and go FI the engine bay gets ridiculously cramped very quick

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The catch can is a Moroso Dry Sump Breather Tank Moroso part# 85470 $67.99 from jegs.com You’ll also need a PCV valve gromet from a Ford Econoline Van and a PCV valve to go in it. Take the can with you to get the gromet and valve that best fit the can. Get the fittings for the can and find a fitting to put into the hole the OE pcv valve used to be in, and then find some hose that is resistant to oil and high temp and some hose clamps. Find where you want to mount it and make yourself a bracket and then hook everything up. I think my total cost was about $85.

It’s a great system for turbo or NA but I doubt it’ll pass visual smog even though it works better than the OE PCV system. But it’s easy to put it back to OE. Here’s a diagram for a NA application:

The catch can setup seperates out more of the oil from the system than the sperator box on the back of the block does by itself. You don’t want this vapor in the intake charge because it can cause detonation (oil vapor has a very low “octane”).

By not running any PCV system at all (ie disconnecting the hose that runs from the intake pipe to the valve cover and putting a little air filter on the valve cover) you can do damage to the piston rings. That little nipple on the valve cover takes air in which goes all the way down to the crankcase where it is evacuated into the oill seperator on the back of the block then through the pcv valve and back into the intake manifold (vacuum). The crankcase needs to work in a vacuum to displace air as the pistons go up and down. The less air resistance there is in the crankcase the less pressure there is going to be on the piston rings. The PCV system (when working properly) will keep the crankcase under vacuum.

B17Vortech: Yeah it does get cramped quick. I can’t imagine what it would be like to have the battery, AC, and PS still in there…

Thanks for the comps…

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:stuck_out_tongue: thanks man!!!..it all makes so much sense now…i know i will be doing something very similar:p

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your set up is awsome! and your obviously smart enought to relocate you battery, unlike so many other people who just work around it, sorry just a huge pet-peev that I have. Was putting the PCV on the catch can your idea or did the part you bought force you too? I have wondered how much those catch can collect, but 1"!! thats a lot!

13

…beautiful

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awesome, is it hard to build? I need one bad.

15

cut off switch???

Hey haberdasher how did you extend the cutoff switch to out the key hole with it being long enough so that the switch doesnt hit the car.

Im doing one now and i think i need to dremel so that the cutoff switch will fit further and extend the switch through the hole.

Any pics or help

thanks

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I used a metal rod. I hallowed out one end so it would fit over the post on the switch. Then I drilled a hole through the rod and the post in the switch. I put a bolt through the hole to hold the 2 together. I machined the other end of the rod so that it had the same shape as the post on the switch so it would except the switch lever. It took a couple tries to get everything machined right but it turned out good in the end…

17

thanks ill give that a try

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Originally posted by Haberdasher
[BEric:
The oil filter relocation kit is pieced together from universal parts. And yes they are earl’s fittings and lines. I get all of my universal stuff at Baker Precision (www.bakerprecision.com) in Signal Hill, CA (near Long Beach). Give them a call and ask for a spin on adapter for a Honda (20mm x 1.5) and they’ll know what you need. They have the rest of the parts you’ll need to.

Update: I just looked on their website and they are selling a “Honda Oil Filter Relocation Kit”. But the are only offering it with rubber lines. There are a lot of different oil filter bases to chose from. Decide where you want to put the filter and then get the appropriate base with the ports facing in the right direction. You can piece together a better kit from the universal stuff they sell than the one they are offering.

Everyone: Thanks for the props…I appreciate it :smiley: [/B]

can you elaborate on the parts/prices? summit has this one for 35 but not sure if itll fit as its for fords

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=search.asp&type=bysummitpart&searchtype=both&part=PRM-10695&x=10&y=11

19

I’m using the remote kit from summit, but not the one you linked to, I’m using the one that’s made by summit and is a universal kit, and uses a ford filter (I think like a ph8a or something). Works fine, although I didn’t use the rubber tubing they give with the kit, I switched to aeroquip ss lines, I didn’t want to have to worry about the lines ever failing (seeing as how an oil line failing could quickly destroy a motor.)

20

Nice set-up, I have that tool box.