I haven’t cut mine out yet but it looks like my Revo arms will be getting here today so ill be lowering it more and might have to cut it out, we’ll see.
I was going to sheetmetal over mine after I cut it out also.
Tools needed…saws-all, cutting disk about 3", and safety glasses. Think the cut through carefully. You don’t have to cut a shit load out. the arch close to where the arm pivots, hits when the arm gets extended so far. If you use the body line to cut, like I did, it will be right on the money. let me know if you need more photos or advise. Plus like I said, G3 Skunk2 arms are going on this weekend. I already have them. If you need pics for those as well, let me know and I’ll post in the proper forum…jcochran: I wouldn’t sheet metal it due to the lines of the hood. It follows the body line that your going to cut.
yeah Ill make sure it clears the hood.
And plasma cutter is my tool of choice for the cutting. :rockon:
now that you mention it, i can see where its been beat up. i can see were bondo has been put on the underside. i thing ima have to cut it. or have it cut (im not really that good with the saw)
if your not handy with (any) tool…please I urge you get someone that is inclined . this an important cut
thats why i said “or have it cut”
if i didnt 100% know what im doing. i wouldn’t do it
i would never jeopardize my cars well being
Sawzall, or grinder?
a Sawzall is just a recipricating saw model made by Milwaukee.
yes, recipricating saw. w/not too aggressive of a blade. also an attachment to clean the cut. pinch the two seams together and seal up with JB Weld(fast dry is preferred. 
then shape it up with a bastard. prime w/paint
the weather stripping I chose is temporary. I want to find the right door or trunk trim to place there. also, the holes in the hood right above the cut, will need grommets. I think the ones at the front of the hood should fit, but I haven’t tried yet, but you get the Idea(weather-ize) your ride
here is some pics of the Items discussed
hood grommets 
Skunk2 fit in…cuts are right on. aligned the arms on top of the anchor bolts just to get a look. give or take a little either way.
Originally posted by N.E.L.A db2
do you have different sets of sizes between the rear and the front? it feels like the picture is playing with my eyes
Originally posted by N.E.L.A db2
they appear the same from the front to the back to me here, but in the latter pic…
please show me what type of attachment will clean the cut?
im pretty sure you’re talkin about a grinder…
Cutting wheel, and a small grinder wheel. Some sort of dremel like attachment that smooths and shapes metal. Whatever gets it done, just use your best judgment on the grit amount. After applying the JB weld, I shaped it by hand w/ a medium bastard and sand paper.
Do you only need to cut that part out if you are ONLY using the A-arm type camber kit or you should cut when you’re lowering your car really really low?
Usually for “slammed (low as hell) tegs”. Anytime you extend the arm by replacing the arm, or using something similar to the ingalls kit. Just ask yourself, do you want to beat a hole the strut tower. Or, do a little custom work and let it work freely. As you can see, I new in advance that I was getting the Skunk2 arms. So I went ahead and cut it the way I did. The Rhino camber arms are not as big as the Skunk2. This is because the Skunk2 adjust up to 5 degrees, Rhino, only 4. The Skunk2 are built better…stronger, better ball joint. What urged me to do this mod, is the Rhino or Revo (whatever)the ball joint went to shit after 4 months.
I cut my inner fenders out today to clear my new Revo control arms, I also extended the top hats in the front, damn it rides good now. Ill post pics later.
great job. I’m ready to see what others have come up with.
interesting cuts, my concern with doing that is weaking the shock tower. lets say hypothetically you’re driving 80mph at night, its raining and you don’t see a huge pothole and run over it. with a cut like that i would think you just created a new crumple zone and it would cave in. just my thoughts.
this is my second car doing this, and have experienced no chassis change. Probably helps to have strut bars also. And I have hit some good size bumps going fast also…no problems. your good to go.
yeah the strut bar would help.
too low for me though, hard enough getting my fat ass in and out of the car with how my car sits right now. damn i’m getting old. plus i drop my daughter at daycare and can’t have it as stiff as i used to.
dont worry about the mud flaps