The set up…
Drag Kit…
Cometic Muty Layered Thicker Head Gasket
Fluidyne Full Radiator (2 years old with no leaks)
2 10" Push Slim Fans connected now as PULL with stock sensor for the stock fans.
New radiator OBX Hoses…
30,000 miles on OEM Water Pump…
Thermistat is in but no clue on milage…
No Leaks…At all…
Ok…So I just got the kit installed…When I drove her to Miami from Naples…About 125 miles…Nice and easy…I arrived at a friends house to find out that I was overheating abit while sittiing at a light after boosting a bit…So I turned on the Heater…Temp went down to normal…My Oil Sending Unit T broke later (Don’t ask)…So I had it replaced the next day (The Correct way)…Then while driving her on Boost…Over heating a bit again, while stopeped in traffic… The stock temp guage go’s up to like almost 3 quarters…Then I turn on the Heater and it go’s down to normal…The Fans have turned on on there own while teg sitts…But at the Time that the over heating accured the fans were not on all the way…There is also an exhaust leak were the turbo meets with the manifold…Bolt hard to get to…So I don’t hit her hard cuz of ugly noise…
I am thinkin of taking off the Thermistat…Should I or shouldn’t I for a Turbo?
The fans turn on like normal if I let her sit and get warmed up. But today as I was going home while boosting a bit…(5,000 rpm @ 6-7 LBS) she started to Over heat a bit again while in Traffic…No sound of Fans…I then turned on the Heater and temp went down to normal…I will have all checked out on Wed., while the Manifold is tightend up were it meets with the Turbo…
Thinking of just getting a new Radiator Cap, New Thermistat, And seeing what happend…Any helpful advice will be greatly appreciated…Thanks…
I have an aftermarker pusher fan that I wired to come on with ignition on, it helps a bit. And this is with the civic half style radiator. No temp problems at all, boosting, idiling, she stays normal temp. However, my radiator is PWR and less than a year old. Re-wire your fan, leave on all the time or put it on a switch.
Thanks for the advice peeps…I did use that one radiator in that old pic…But I spent half a day on bending back 75% of all the lil fins…Thanks…
Tomorrow I will buy an OEM Thermistat and on Wed. i will change it…then see what happens…I also heard an Idea that I like…To get a Breaker Switch added before the stock Fan Sensor Relay so that if be I could turn fans on when I choose to…
Ralfy… you should take the time… and go over all the connections and tighten all the bolts/nuts. I pretty sure that you will have issues with the oil line fittings on the block, due to engine movement. You should research that.
It seems that the shop didn’t take too much care and time with your setup…I would be carefull as to not to damage anything before you really get a chance to enjoy your car/setup.
As far as the overheating goes… after checking everything else… check the timming… it could be a little off… and will cause overheating. I would suggest that you concider wiring the fans to stay on all the time. Good luck br0…
Oh… BTW… I can wait to run you… :] NA/NOS 1.7Ll vs Turbo 1.8L
I am going to set the fans with a swicth to be able to turn them on when needed…(BOOSTING)…Then they can also turn on by them self’s…Thanks for the advice…
Ronie, That is so wrong of you to want to kill me like that…You know how much money you have in your lil motor…But, I am always down for a fun run…hehehehe…
Ralfy…I think it would be safer to wire them to stay on all the time.
The ingnition idea is a good one. Be patient… and take your time. It will all come together in time. Once you work out all the hardware bugs…then you can consantrate on tuning. Tuning it a lot of fun… when you learn to do it yourself.
And it’s not about how much money you spent… it’s what you spent the money on that matters and it’s not about all the parts…It the sum of the parts that really matters and if you are happy with the outcome. :bye:
my guess is leaky headgasket only at higher loads. do a leakdown test, but leave the pressure in each cylinder for like ten minutes. then pop the rad cap and see if she blows. that means air leaked into the system.
if it is the case, either retorque head, add arp head studs, or replace gasket and spray with copper.
XDEep, my name is ronie… nice to meet you.
I’ve made the same comment to ralfy over the phone…
He mentioned…to me… that while on the dyno he turned off the boost bleeder [boost control] which cause a boost spike. They didn’t notice at what PSI it spike to… but the WHP reading was somewhere in the 275+ range.
If 10 psi produced 210whp…then what amount of PSI would yeild 275 wheel hp?
I know thats a pretty broad question… concidering all the factors involved but… it would have to be 14+psi. Arg!! if thats the case… well… I don’t want ot scare Ralfy… but you understand what I’m trying to say… no?
if your fans are sufficient enough to support the cooling(2000CFM) then you really shouldn’t have a problem with cooling. I had the same issue with mine. there’s no way around it, I had to replace the head gasket and resurface the head. here check out this thread of mine awhile ago.
I tried water wetter, purple ice, new thermostat, different cololants…etc. even without the thermostat which all this does is prolong when it’s going to overheat. just go and have a leakdown test to see what’s up.
ya, a ballpark calculation would be if 10 psi produced 80whp over stock (130whp), then thats 8whp per 1psi which sounds about right. so with 275-210=65 more whp, it would take about 8 more psi (65/8=8), so around 18psi. just gotta remember the power is not linear so its just a rough estimate.
ya so 18psi/275whp is definitely enough to test the limits of the gasket, stock(?) head bolts, even rods/pistons.
another sign is if the coolant and/or reservoir is dirty, or if there’s a film floating at the top, or if you’re burning off coolant.
Thanks for all the advice fellas…The teg is at the shop now…Getting some concerned issue taken care of…Over heating being one of the top few…I am still baffilled on what it may be…It only happens when I drove her hard…5,000 rpm @ like 6 lbs…I did not want to go higher due to the loud exhaust leak from were the manifold meets the turbo…while driving Temp was normal…Then as I sat in traffic (at Night)…The Temp started to creep up slowly…After it passed the half way mark I turned on the Heater…Then quickly she came back down to normal…It is just weird…I am changing the Thermastat and Radiator Cap…I will ask for a Leek down test aswell…
I am going to have the FANS turn on with start up…
These are the parts that are in the motor now…
The head was sent to a shop were they tested it and shaved it.
i dont see why you need to have the fans on all the time. its only when the car is stopped that that fans turn on when the coolant temp switch heats up to 225F(?) i forget. otherwise when the car is moving, lots of air cools down the engine bay.
you have a fluidyne so it should be cooling well. if its not the gasket, i would say the rad cap next. then maybe the thermostat is stuck partially closed? you can test it in hot water. or just remove it and see if the system overheats, then you know its not the thermostat.
good luck. btw all the things i mentioned are in the helms.
I dont know if the radiator is activated by an electric switch(Temperature converted to an electric signal that activate a relay at a certain voltage) or mecanical (temerature activated electric switch, like old clicking house thermostat)
if its option 2, maybe this switch need to be replaced so it will turn ON the fans as soon as the temperature rise above middle gauge?
you could also get a microswitch (about 2$) and place it next to TB so it turns ON when gas pedal is released!
I really think it’s the head gasket or the way they shaved the head. from what you say, it sounds the same problem exist in your set-up as mine was at the time. when you overheat, did you ever touch the lower hose to see if it was warm? that can tell you without you having to take out the thermostat but it’s already at the shop and there shouldn’t be any reason they can’t fix it for you. good luck though on the shop finding out for you. let us know the outcome.
yep. i think i saw them somewhere for around 80 now.
yes, ECT (engine coolant temperature) switch that switches on the radiator fan. it’s on the back of the block, the giant sensor next to the oil pressure sensor. i had to replace mine once before.
