Saab Turbo?

i went to the local junkyard today and found a 1984 Saab 900 turbo with the turbo still in place, guy said he’d let it go for about $75. from my searching i have found that the turbo is:

SAAB 900 (16V Intercooled) 84-86 2.0L GAR TB0339 (Oilcld)

now does this use a standard garret flange, and your normal type rebuild kit for a garret, also what size is this comparable to? t25, t3, 14b??

thanks alot guys!

anyone? trying to figure out as soon as possible

it should be a garret T3 (.42/.48) if this is the case, it will make decent power on an LS(~215-235whp @ 8-10psi) the turbine is too small for a b16a/gsr/tisypeR

thanks anyone else? thats perfect if it is that because i was planning on about 8 psi on stock internals with a good turboedit tune

also would this size t3 be a good match for the b18a? will i hold strong to the 6600rpm redline? and when do you think it would spool at?

prob full boost by 3500-3800 with a 3"DP and exhaust.

dang that sucks though that i got a 2.25" exhaust, would it effect it alot?

also quick question that i wondered, i have heard 7-8 psi is safe on stock internals expecially if you have it tuned, however is our bottom limited to PSI or actual HP, as in if i keep it 8 psi but then capitalize on that psi in better ways by using like a turbo cam and bigger exhaust and downpipe, port head and intake, is that to much HP for the bottom end? or is it mostly PSI related before i blow things, weird question i know, but always wondered

ls engine is capable of holding up to about 15psi on stock internals so you should be good, just do the fuel pump and injectors and you would b pretty much str8 as far as internals

It has nothing to do with psi. It has to do with timing/mixture/WHP. nothing to do with PSI. :smiley: A stock b-series will handle 250-300whp safely.

A saab turbo is a t3 turbo, but you might want to rethink it if you want high numbers. An old turbo like that wont be as effecient. If your looking for around 200~250 it will be good. But more then that you’ll have effeciency problems.

And in fact it does have a lot to do with PSI. PSI is just as important, because thats what is going to determine the WHP/timing/mixture. PSI would be the reason that you need to worry about timing and fuel.

With a saab turbo…run the stock internal wastegate. Get a FMU 12:1, a AEM Fuel Pressure Reg and a set of 1996 Prelude Vtec injectors. The prelude injectors are 310cc/min so you can set idle fuel pressure to about 20. That way when you are boosting your 12:1 FMU doesn’t overwork your stock pump.

stick with the turboedit! it’s not recommended to use a fmu.
good luck, as i too have almost the same setup waiting to go on my car!
cheers to future boosted ls’s!

yea i was planning on turbo edit and 450’s are 450cc to much for just 8 psi? also is there anyone that knows any turboedit, or ghettodyne tuners anywhere close to the cleveland area? thanks guys!

o yea does anyone know by any chance what the stock wastegate spring is on a 1984 saab 900? thanks

i will be running the 450’s as well, all though i’m gonna go 9-10psi. they should still be fine for you as well. i have a straight t3 also and i believe i was told it’s stock wastegate is like 6-8psi. if your actuator rod is threaded, i believe it can be adjusted…

also, email xenocron(chris) on here. he is a turboedit guru, plus he knows his stuff. he’ll even send you a basemap if you need one. good guy, check him out.


i wouldnt need a resistor if i got 450’s for my 90 integra correct? but if i have a 92-93 model i would need a resistor?? a know it all told me that the 450 injectors would not be good for the fact of “low impedence” and i would need the resistor

HIJACKER! haha just kidding but no you wouldnt need the resistor if you have obd0

also is this “basemap” good enough for me to drive it like 60 miles to the nearest tuner if im easy on it?

thanks funny guy :lol:

i wish i could help you with your base map question, but i dont know what your talking about, so ill leave it to a more experience g2 veteran to answer this 1

correct, 90-91’s don’t need a resistor. yes, thats what a basemap is. the car should be drivable to a tuner, just remember, no hard core boosting. car should def. be babied till it can be properlly tuned.


If all you want is 8 psi of boost then the Prelude injector/FMU setup is fine. You don’t have to waste money on things like turboedit and tuning. The FMU tunes itself depending on boost which is what you want anyway. I’M NOT SAYING TURBOEDIT IS BAD! Just trying to save the man some money. If your not looking to make a race car, just something fun to drive, you shouldn’t waste a bunch of money and sheot you don’t need.

The reason FMU’s are bad is that at a stock fuel psi of 40~45 at 7 psi of boost you reach fuel psi of 124± a little. That is really pushing the stock pump and the injectors. With the prelude injectors you can push 7 psi and still be around 100. Not much better, but if you just want 7 or 8 psi. It’s a hellalot cheaper then turboedit…

what about the fmu with 450 cc dsm’s?

450 injectors are pretty big injectors. You wont be able to idle them very good without some kind of real fuel managment. A FMU just increases fuel pressure on boost, they don’t do any kind of real control based on air/fuel mixture or anything, so when there is no boost, there is no fuel managment. The prelude injectors are 310(340??)cc/min and will run alright at 20 psi at idle.

well i fugred since turbo edit is free there couldnt be many cheaper alternatives. i mean how much does it cost to modify the ecu? also how much is it normally for someone to tune the car? any tuners known of in northern ohio?