Well, I’m fed up with my high compression lsvtec motor that I successfully blew up (long story, shady shop built it, wasnt built right, didnt last, yadda yadda). I can’t justify spending the cash to build it up again, correctly, just to max out at 240hp at the most. So, I’ve decided to go with what I’ve always wanted all along!!!
My goal is to hit 300whp on pump gas, but I only want like 250 daily. I’m selling my far too expensive NA Toda cams and Edlebrock header and I want to do this the smartest way possible. I need it to be solid, but getting my block sleeved will set me back too much. I just need help deciding the best setup for my internals to reach 300whp. All the external/turbo components I can handle deciding on. Here’s what I got so far for my NEW setup.
These are the components I still need to pick out…
Pistons (OEM? SRPs?)
Rods (OEM? Scat? Eagle?)
Cams (stock b16, b18c5? aftermarket?)
Will the stock sleeves be ok?
Head bolts?
Remember, Im looking for the cheapest way to 300, and I have no intentions of going beyond that. I want it to be solid which is why I already got the girdle and block guard. I know people have gotten 300whp out of STOCK ls internals. I also know that they didnt just bolt the turbo on and magically get all that power, it takes careful tuning. I plan on tuning using BRE and I have my own WBO2.
girdle…block gaurd…lame.
you want 300 cheapest? Get a nice used or rebuilt garret and a well put together kit for a little under a grand, and as far as your block goes, forged pistons, get ringlads and rods (which are not weak…but reliably is a factor). This way 300whp with a good tune wont be a problem.
Up that exhaust to at least 2.5".
You wont even have to push to much psi to get your goal.
Also, definetly go for ARP headstuds and a decent headgasket (with copper spray? read up).
stock cams should be fine.
And stock sleeves are good so long as they are in good shape.
Throw the Eagle rod/SRP piston combo in there @ 9:1cr, stock gsr cams are best and cheapest for turbo, some ARP headstuds, and do some research but i think cometic makes a high boost head gasket i would look into that also, those parts shouldnt run you much more than a grand depending on how much you get the cams for. But that will definitly give you a SOLID bottom end for 300whp and you will be able to push it farther maybe the 375hp mark if you want to.
I realize the block guard and girdle arent really necessary, but I had already bought them for the NA setup. It certainly won’t hurt to to put them to use on the new setup.
I have one successful 500whp 4g63 build under my belt (my first full motor build, lol) so I’m very familiar with the copper spray, and engine building techniques. The difference there was that money wasn’t really an object for the owner of that car (who paid me to build it), so he just got the best of everything (ie: forged internals, race cams, headwork, huge turbo, equal length mani, 950cc injetors, 3in SS exhaust all the way back, etc.). Money is an object for me, which is why I need help pickin out these parts. I think I have all the info I need for now, but Id like to hear a few more opinions.
Also, I forgot to mention that I would be running a GM MAP, instead of the factory one. Thanks guys
Eagle = garbage. get Scat rods, aries pistons, rings, bearing, block gaurd, thick head gasket, ARP headstuds, and that will be good to probably 350-370 whp if tuned correctly.
Shit check the thread on HMT to fill your block, there are people runnin a TON of boost on the filled blocks.
I would not say that Eagle is garbage by any means. There is obviously better stuff out there, but Eagle is just fine for these power goals and much higher.
And getting 300whp out of an integra is a lot more difficult and expensive than getting 500 out of a 4g63. You can get 500 out of a 4g with a big turbo, injectors, a front mount, and shitty tuning.
:werd: its alot easier to get more power out of an already turbo car. for a car that comes turbocharged from the factory, simple bolt ons will bring out the true potential of the turbo. a prime example, (this isn’t even a honda but its a car that comes stock turbo, or NA depending on what trim level you get) a 93+ Toyota Supra (Non Turbo) will only gain about 6-10 hp with basic bolt-ons by means of I/H/E (like most hondas) but a Supra Turbo is likely to get that kind of power (10hp +/-) out of just one of those mods.
by freeing up the intake path to the stock turbo(s), you are allowing them to breath ALOT easier. a less restrictive turbo manifold will net you some good power. and a bigger exhaust helps get the expelled gases out quicker. all of which takes alot of stress off of a stock turbo. :blah:
Girdle for 300whp?? not necessary. spend money elsewhere. from the reading i’ve done, i’d say check a gt2871r snail for faster spool or a 35r for later dialing at largest with .63A/R… that is still hefty. do 2.5-3.0" exhaust (2.5 will be fine for the lower boost you’re currently looking for). replace injectors, redo fuel map TUNE TUNE TUNE!!! For pistons you’d probably like a higher silicon content piston (also later on, not for lower boost. stock will do). COMPTON… eagle does not = crap. if you’re supporting with rods/ sleeves/ whatever- i’ve never heard of them resulting in casualties minus poor tuning! give me a link and prove me wrong PLEASE! cams? gsr are nice, ctr are nice, itr if you can find non-hot ones. honestly ls/vtec is where it’s at if you ask me… yes i’m a poor science student for now, but i read a lot. Anything esle with the head? ARP bolts etc, lower compression head gasket valves and retainters for 300hp? ehhh (tosses it up in mind)
-1st I would decide if you want vtec? or non-vtec?? I would go the tvtec route.
THen sell all the ls parts to get a GSR block.
-sell the girdle and block guard b/c hondas have pretty good sleeves.
-GSR cams would help a great deal.
-Go with the basic Wiseco pistons and H-Beam rod combo at Race Engeneering.com for $750 (9:0:1)
-Stay with a Stock head gasket and some ARP head studs would help.
-A nice sc-61 or a turbonetics 60-1 would be a nice turbo.
I would not go no smaller than a stage lll hybrid turbochager
At 10psi you should see 280-300whp.
and of coarse you won acheive this without a chipped ecu turbo program installed.
this the setup im going to be running in the near future minus the built motor.
wow, seems like the FI forum gets a lot more attention than other forums on g2ic!
You guys missed my point about the 4G63. I know its easier to get power out of those: closed deck, 2.0, huge head ports, etc. My point is that i want 300hp and I don’t have the cash he did, so its gonna be a little more challenging to reach my goal than his was.
I’m definately keeping vtec as I already have the components to do so. I still want to hang on to the girdle parts cuz like I said, I already have them and plus I want to rev up to around 8800 or so.
$750 is definately reasonable for a good solid piston/rod combo, and since i need rods/pistons, I might as well go with those. I’ll do a little more shopping first tho.
I have all the equipment to change my BIN file whenever I want, and I will be driving with a WB02 at all times in my car. I’ll spend some time on street tuning and then head to a dyno.
I’ll have to double check the size of the exhaust on my thermal, It’ll suck if I have to ditch all the stainless for a bigger custom non-ss catback.
allright, then I’m going with some new ls internals (I already have rods). That’ll free up more money for other things. I think they should be fine because I don’t plan on pushing it to 300hp everyday.
I’m trying to trade my Toda cams for some stock b-series vtec cams. Which OEM cams would be the best for my application? B16, B17, B18c, B18C5? Thanks.
