^^^:wtf: gsr cams on a turbo car own type r’s, they are even better than most aftermarket cams, thats why crower makes a turbo specific cam, more duration, less lift, especially on the exhaust, dont post info if you dont know for sure, plus he can sell those toda’s and pick up some stock gsr’s for real cheap and make up most of his money.
Thank you, I figured those cams were more setup for getting the most out of NA, kinda like my todas. Ok, I’ll go for b18c cams for sure now. I’m hoping to trade the b16 head for a b18c head with the cams, that way I’ll have lower compression with ls internals (vs my shaved b16 head) , and as far as I know, the head flows better.
b16’s heads flow better, but for turbo app. u want the gsr cams, so choose ur path
B16 and ITR cams have dyno’d much better than the GSR cams many times…search around on Honda-Tech
b16’s heads flow better
Really? I was under the impression that B18c heads were the best, next to B18c-r. I guess I was under the impression that people put b16 heads on b18c blocks for the higher compression, which is why i was hoping to trade with someone who wanted to do a poormans type r.
As far as the cams, Im going to try to do some more research, it seems to be a bit controversial.
I just got off the phone with Clayton at King Motorsports and I asked him a few questions.
Me: For my ls vtec turbo setup, which head, between b16 and b18c would be more beneficial for me to use?
Clayton: Actually, they are the same exact casting from the factory. It wouldn’t matter, but I would recommend a b16. When we do head porting here, we spend a lot of time correcting mistakes on the gsr and itr heads.
Me:ok, between b16 and b18c1 cams, which ones should I go for?
Clayton: Type R would be best for turbo. They have more lift.
Me: If I had to chose between b16 and b18c1 cams, which ones should I get?
Clayton: b18c cams would be better.
So, this is coming from the director of sales and marketing at King Motorsports Unlimited, which happens to be conveniently located only 10 minutes away from my house!!!
What do you guys think? Keep the b16 head, and go for itr cams?
if ur getting head work go for a nice aftermarket set. Especially with turbo, they will do a lot.
Surprise surprise…I disagree…
If you didn’t like the PITA LSVTEC caused you then why repeat the experience? Nothing beats the drivability, simplicity, economics and torque of a straight LS turbo setup. It is by far more fun to drive than a comparable VTEC setup. There isn’t a day that goes by that I regret going with the LS.
this is kind of off topic, but with the girdle, how do you plan to make it fit, isnt there some special fitting to get the girdle to fit, also, my opinion, not necessarily from expieirence, a good set of pistons and rods (im rocking eagle and je 9:1) good build and a good tune coudl easily hit 300whp, thats my goal on my ls/vtec, i have a gsr head, i have to restart my turbo build, had to sell it all. but im still rocking my motor!!
to use the stock gsr girdle, you have to use the following gsr parts: main caps, oil pickup, windage tray, and oil pan.
I have a spare ls head I could just as easily use, but I am a huge fan of vtec. I think that my car, being a DB2, should have vtec. I realize that it has no bearing on what motor is in the car, but whatev. I have all the confidence in the world that if I build the motor, I won’t have any of the problems the last motor did due to poor decision making and not using the right parts. Plus, I still want to rev to at least 8500.
I’m throwing a stock ls motor in my integra temporarily so I can sell my winter car, at which point I will be making huge progess on the motor build. I’ll be sure to post pics of the progress.
All that is needed for 300whp, on pump gas, is some aftermarket pistons. the weak point of any b-series is the cast pistons. the ringlands crack VERY easily. even with slight detonation. With only some pistons a LS/b16/b17/GSR/etc can make 300whp reliably.
hey i was thinking why dont you try a high compression/turbo and get the best of both worlds??? my next project is going to be a 11:1/turbo motor NA powerband + boost = insanity…my .02
I think the reason I’m so gung-ho about the block guard is because my NA motor cracked a sleeve, and that couldn’t have been any more than 200hp tops. My plans have shifted a little, as I’ve decided to go with forged pistons and rods. I’m getting pistons so I can lower my compression, because with my shaved head and stock ls pistons, the compression calculated around 10:1, which isn’t quite what I’m looking for. Then, I figured if I’m getting pistons, I might as well get rods and rest easy knowing my internals shouldn’t be failing anytime soon. Plus I see me having a problem with keeping myself from turnin up the boost “just a little more” a few too many times.
High compression plus boost, from what I read, is very difficult to keep from detonating when you start adding a good amount of boost. To me, It’s not exactly the best of both worlds because the turbo system restricts the “NA” motors ability to breath freely. It probably gives better throttle response, but at the expense of low boost, unless your bottom end is bullet proof and you have a REALLY good tune.
OK guys, how about a clutch? I had an ACT 6-puk and I HATED IT!!! I would really prefer to use a full-face so it engages smoothly. I’ve loved every exedy clutch I driven with, but those were stage one and two (which means nothing to me, I’m more concerned with the amount of torque and hp it can handle). What kind of clutches are you turbo guys running?
more research on the cams yielded boosted b’s with itr and ctr’s seems to do very well in high rpm range (my favorite) but people seem to make really good power on any OEM b-series vtec cam. I’m trying to work out a deal with a guy to get a ctr intake, and itr exhaust cam and cash for the toda’s. I’ve changed my goal to 350 whp on pump. OEM itr/ctr valvetrain the valvetrain of choice for high r’s? Thanks again for the advice.
Little side note: Got the Teg back on the road with the loaner motor 
, anyone interested in a sweet 92 plymouth laser auto w/ a recent jdm motor swap done? less than 50k, makes a great winter car!!! 
Heres what I bought so far…
Srp pistons (81.5mm)
Eagle Rods
Arp head studs
Cometic Head Gasket (81.5mm, .051 thickness)
hondata im gasket
energy suspension mm inserts
ITR intake valve springs (will move my b16 springs to the exhaust side)
I still need to pick out a clutch. Suggestions?
exedy stage 2 thick cerametallic … hands down, dont buy anything else…that is THE clutch to have, ive had a clutch masters, ACT, and exedy and the exedy surpassed all of them in overall quality, durability, feel, hold, everything, exedy’s cost a little more, but honestly, you get what you pay for, and exedy is a very very good clutch.
and everything you bought so far is good stuff, youre on your way 
is that the 3-puk one? if so, does it chatter all nasty when you engage it?
Picked up a reman Garrett turbo, specs are
Model: T3/T04B
Compressor A/R: 0.60
Compressor 63 trim “V”
Turbine A/R: 0.48
Turbine trim: standard
Flange type: T3 inlet, 5 bolts outlet
Only thing I’m not sure if I like about it is that it is oil and water cooled. From what I read, it makes the turbo last longer, but now I’ll have to get a nice braided water line and oil line kit!
And I’m eyeing up this…
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8048555036&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBI%3AIT&rd=1
I know, I know, ssautocrap. But the price… if I can save money with something like that and just put alittle work into it to make it solid (ie:bracing etc), then I’m all for it. I’m just going to make sure my turbo and wastegate are quality name brand stuff.
Got my ssautochrome manifold and downpipe (the one from the auction in the above link). I am EXTREMELY impressed with the quality… for the price. I’m going to have to post pics, cuz the one in the auction looks a little different than the one I got. The 3inch ss down pipe I got is better than the one pictured. It actually came with a decent sized flex section and a flange at the end (unlike the one pictured). I also just noticed that the bends are a little different than the one in the picture. Notice the size of the tubing used on the primaries on the manifold? (converts to about 1.9inches, the same size as some full-race manifolds), and the flanges are REAL thick. The tubing on the manifold is pretty thick as well, but I will still be adding a few braces on the underside of it, just to be safe. The combo even came with some fairly thick, decent looking gaskets. I know I would be better off getting some multi layer steel gaskets, but I figure I’ll give these a shot and see how they do.
Even though it was an amazing deal, the manifold and DP could use a little work, but like I said, for $200, I am more than willing to put the finishing touches on it. For example, the hole in the flange at the end of the downpipe is considerably smaller than the inside diameter of the pipe. This I’ll take car of with my die grinder. While I’ve got my die grinder going, the manifold has a few areas that could use a little cleaning up on the inside which I will gladly take care of. Probably not completely necessary, but I’d like to clean it up a little anyways. It will be interesting to see how well everything fits (if it fits, lol) I’ll post pics of the progress soon.