The White Beast bites the dust again

My totally built motor just locked up on me Saturday. Check out the pics to see what happened so this does not happen to you. Three Words “Prodrive Gears Suck”

http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2130458809

shit that sucks big nuts! Make sure i dont get that oil pump for my build

LOL
“ProDrive Oil Pump gears are precision machined and ground out of solid steel to insure longer life than inferior quality sintered metal OEM gears. There are many factors that contribute to oil pump failure. Among them are contaminants in the oil, improper installation, unbalanced rotating assembly, etc. Since the pump is mounted to the front of the crank, the crank, rods, pistons and the flywheel/clutch assembly must be precisely balanced. If the assembly is even slightly out of balance, the oil pump gear is going to take a serious beating. A ProDrive billet oil pump gear is much stronger than a stock gear and will withstand high RPM vibration much better than a stock unit. A ProDrive Oil Pump Gear is truly cost effective if you want to protect the investment you ve made in your engine.”

oh man that does suck. hope you were able to shut it off before the gear took the motor with it. how much power were you making? did you have your mains align-honed?

could be 2 possible reasons…

1 - Prodrive was installed incorrectly
2- Unorthodox pulley was too much for the oil pump

Im looking for a stock crank pulley now and pray that nothing was damaged on the bottom end, Visually looking head looks good, valves and springs checked out ok, pistons and rods look good. I will inspect the crank tomorrow and see if anthing was chipped.

Allan, i have stock crank pulleys all day long, ill just send you one if you need it. And another main cause of oil pump failure is the mains not being staright. This is a why a align bore/hone is critical, cause the mains will move slightly after a certain amount of wear on the motor, and the crank isnt exactly where it needs to be.

My old B16 took a poop because the oil pump also shattered due to a cheapo lightweight crankpulley. :mad:

damn Allan… :sad: I didn’t even get to ride in it yet. hope you can get it back together. :clap:

prodrive makes great rally parts. however you’re not the first i’ve seen have trouble with their honda oil pumps. h-t has a good number of horror stories. i guess if you’re building a totally race-only engine then go for it, but if you don’t want to replace stuff constantly go with oem ITR. :up:

OEM ITR is the way… NO BS on that and get rid of that pulley and get the CTR one.

ctr one doesn’t have a balancer either. i’ve got 3 crank pullies layin around, so i’m gonna take a couple to the auto skills center on base and see about learning how to use the mill they have…if it works out i might be willing to extend my services to the community. :slight_smile:

What you thinking about doing??? knocking the belt parts off and balancing for just alt? BTW- The CTR NOT balanced. I have held plenty of them and was under the impression from a notable/reliable source they were balanced.

NEVER the less go back to stock SOMETHING instead of that unbalanced pulley or he will be right back where he started. I wanna know what the sleeves and journals are really looking like on this thing.

that’s exactly what i’m thinking about doing. might as well–if they come out decent i’ll mill the third one i’m keeping and sell the other two. :slight_smile:

and yes, it will definitely go to someone to balance it properly before i even think of using it. some aftermarket pullies come balanced, but i don’t think i saw fluidampr anywhere in this thread. :wink:

and i have no desire to see the journals on this engine…i already watched one scary movie tonight. :stuck_out_tongue:

I was watching it too… just interested if he has any idea of what it looks like inside. Those CP’s (most AM) are SHIET. Not to dog this man out but man I wish I could go back to '99 when I did not know any better on the aftermarket CP stuff.

I’ll take one of those off your hands when you get them worked out.

Allan, long time no talk. Sorry about the motor. Let me know if you have any turbo stuff for sale. I decided to go ahead and boost my h22.

man. after all that work we did on it too, your downpipe was one of the nicest we have done on a G2. :frowning:

Allan, call me if you wanna get serious and send a core out to ERL for sleeving…

Sorry to hear that. That is exactly what happened to me with my B16. I too had a lightweight aluminum crank pulley and was told several times to take it off before it smokes your oil pump gear. Obviously I said no and took my chances. So the day before I was going to the track I put on the slicks and went for a pass down the street to make sure everything was all good. The first pass, I launched it at 4500rpm and hit all the gears. I was so pumped that I had to try it again. So i turned around the car and launched it at 5000rpm and finally got to feel the true potential of this car with the power actually planting on the ground. When the run was done I was about 40sec away from home. I started to hear a funny noise as I pulled up my driveway. When i got it in the garage the oil light flickered once and I shut it off. I knew exactly what happened, So I took off the timing belt and started tearing down that side of the engine. When i took the pump off and opened it up it looked like crushed crackers in there. So I pulled a all the rod bearings off to check them out and all was good. So I put it back together with another pump and flushed the motor twice. Fired her up this time with the stock crank pulley and everything is and was good. I was lucky. That oil pump gear you have was fine, it was your crank pulley that eggsed up the motor. Put a stock LS pump in there but take out the spring and put in a vtec one. that is the only difference between a vtec and non vtec oil pump. they both have the same part numbers on them, it just comes with a bigger spring for more oil pressure that vtec requires. But you might want to balance your motor and try a good aftermarket fluid dampner or a mint condition stock one.

motor was balanced in the initial build up. I am gonna pull off the main caps and check the bearings and flush the whole system out. Put a new oil pump and pray everything is still good.

Josh if i need to send another block out i will let you know. Thanks for lookin out on that stock crank pulley. My buddy had one so he gave me one.

Damn Allan…that blows, call up Pro-drive and tell them you want a new motor and see what they say :slight_smile:

I have seen this happen whenever a lightened crank pulley is used.