what is crx or civic hatch?
I’d love to put a K20A in a 1994 Integra RS.
…One day when it’s cheap I might do it.
[QUOTE=kNOwLedGe420;1860233]I’d love to put a K20A in a 1994 Integra RS.
…One day when it’s cheap I might do it.[/QUOTE]
i’d like to put a TSX long block in a CL…that’d be neat.
chassis rigidity
Speaking of putting a k in a crx as opposed to a DA, besides the benefit of the crx looking better, the cars have very similar chassis. Although, the crx is several hundred pounds lighter than the integra. It would therefore follow that they are just as rigid, except that they have different unibodies. So hopefully the integra places some of its excess weight in the unibody?
the DA chassis and ED chassis arent that similar. still a different chassis. wheelbase plays a factor, too.
take a 2x4 that’s 3 feet long, set it on top of a couple cinder blocks (one under each end, with the middle open), and stand on it.
then do it with a 10-foot-long 2x4.
10 bucks says one bends, and it ain’t the short one.
My DB1 is way more rigid than my CRX, FWIW.
Ahhh… This thread is up again!
It’s to early for me to say anything about K-Swap in DA:D
I’ll bump this thread in about a month or two for K-Serie lovers!! :salute:
seriously?
Sorry I sounded like a complete noob, but I was mainly wondering why everyone complains about the rigidity of the DA9 but you never hear that about the EF’s. Probably as Ferret said about the wheelbase, and also that the EF is lighter, so less stress is put on the body. Or maybe I just don’t spend enough time on 4th gen civic.
I do own an '88 sedan, but its a beater and has blown suspension, so its hard to tell if the body shell is very rigid. Otherwise I would be telling others about it.
A little off topic, but at least its better than arguing which honda engine is better. I have to agree with others that in general it is better to keep general time frames in mind with engine swaps. Other than that why don’t you flame an engine that does suck? There are plenty out there.
I don’t know if anyone actually has any bending or torsion data on these chassis, I haven’t seen it but I haven’t looked to closely. Lot of it might just be seat of the pants and general theory.
Considering how easy any B-series swap is compared to a K, there is no way the K is worth it unless you are doing it just to be different.
K-Swap isnt that hard. If you can read, do an engine swap, and a rear disc brake swap then you probably have the skills needed for the swap.
The purpose for it would be to make 220whp 170trq with simple bolt-ons. These numbers would be impossible on a B-series without tearing the engine down and rebuilding it with expensive aftermarket parts. I think building an engine takes more work/skill then doing a K-Series engine swap.
fixed it for ya. 
i thought that would be understood.
gotta remember which board you’re posting it on. i’ve actually had someone argue that clearances don’t need to be measured when you’re building an engine. just use x brand of pistons, rods, and bearings and it’ll work fine. :roll:
What do you consider simple bolt-ons? I/RH/E/Kpro won’t get you there, is there even a RH that will fit a K in the G2 engine bay?
everytime i read this debate – i feel the urge to weep uncontrollably…
[QUOTE=Armed Ferret;1893289]intake, tb, manifold, header, exhaust, and kpro WILL get you there.
forums.evans-tuning.com[/QUOTE]
220whp on what dyno? Mustang? Dynojet? And honest question I swear… And do you have a torque curve I can look at?
Motor: K20Z1, stock
Header: DC Swap header
Cams: stock
Intake: short ram intake, Stock manifold and Throttle Body
exhaust: Thermal R&D 3" Turbo Exhaust
Tranny: type s tranny w/ OEM Si LSD
Misc Mods:
Power: 214 whp / 160 tq
best pic i have right now:
look at those mods. That is a $320 header, a cat-back exhuast, and a hacked up ebay intake making 214/160 on a Dynojet 248.
And i’m pretty sure that DC Swap header will fit a DA chassis.