i have a T3 garret turbo with turboxs manifold, and turbonetics evoluction wastegate 10psi spring. DSM 450cc injectors. i would like to turn the boost down to 6 psi. i am using A’PEXi SAFC II to tune the fuel.
its smoking real bad at idle and when im at stop lights. also, if i hit high boost and shift, the next gear seems to stutter a lot. the car won’t accelerate anymore. i think its cuz the injectors are still dumpin fuel into the cylinders from the previous high RPM.
can someone offer me some tips on where the fuel should be at certain RPMs?
that is exactly what happened to my car. the only thing is i threw a cel. i found that the problem is with my afc. it is fried. these afc’s are very fragile, and fuck up all the time.
i get a CEL when my wastegate spikes. apparently it spikes up to 12-14 psi sometimes. then i get a MAP Sensor CEL. once the car turns off and back on however, that CEL is gone.
why don’t you talk to chris (xenocron) on here and have your ECU hooked up and tuned with turbo edit? get rid of the AFC all together. the AFC is still not helping the timing. your choice, but I would much rather have my fuel and timing controlled as if it were still stock minus all the extra controllers!!
order a 7 psi spring from turbonetics then get car tunned with uberdata via (xenocron) and buy manual boost controller to turn it up back to 10psi or higher. From what i read from the forums is the afc hack is good to 6psi.
any why would u only want to run only 6psi.
the timing is already retarded. i dont exactly have a dyno in my driveway. does anyone have a similar setup so i can use their fuel stats to go by. am i making myself clear with this request?
There are no set numbers to follow…nor can you copy someone else’s settings…if you want your motor to last, your fuel mileage to be manageable and driveability to be at it’s best.
thank you. listen and don’t be hard headed. your car still drives, right? find some change in your couch and get the bitch tuned on a dyno. no ones settings on their afc is going to be the same as what you need. if you want, set everything to -40 and take it to the dyno.
the car does not drive. this is why i need help. i’ll just have to figure this one out on my own. me being hard headed is me trying to get my car on the road with the parts i chose to use.
why didn’t you mention that a long time ago? if your car doesn’t run it is probably because you need to replace the spark plugs. take your plugs out and see if they are black. if they are, that is because you are running rich as hell. i’ve had this same problem.
well, im sorry, it does run. it just doesnt move very well. the thing idles like a champ. but once its been idling for about 2 minutes, it’ll start to smoke real bad. and when i do drive it, it doesnt get enough fuel sometimes or too much, and it will break down.