i’m gonna be rebuilding my turbo b18b ls this winter while the car is in it’s slumber, and i have already thought of some things to go into her but wanted some tips or imput on what parts are best or what to do. heres my list of what i was thinking:
stage 3 crower cams + cam gears
cp pistons and rods
eagle crank
zex springs,retainers
ferrae valves
spoon chipped + programed ecu
i’m sort of trying to keep within a $3000 range but i think this is a good setup.
im not sure but my builder said to me that eagle crank isnt really needed the honda one is stong enough… so you could save that money on another part…plus what are you plans like what setup are you building the motor for…
well i really only want to push some more boost but i don’t want any worries about blowing shit apart. i was mainly planning on rebuilding just for the stregth. i honestly only have about 85000 on the motor so i’m probably ok for now. the eagle crank i was looking at was lighter, stroked, and uses h22 rods!
that is why i was gonna go eagle.
and yes, as far as i know cp makes rods, i found the piston and rod kit on ebay.
honestly i am currently pushing a little more than 260hp with 450cc injectors, a chipped and crome tuned ecu, and my xs power turbo kit, t3/t4-t04e, which i think is only pushing about 5-7 pounds right now. i don’t have a set hp but i’d like to push at least around 400. for starters i want to get a block girdle, and a sleeve saver so i could push more than 10 pounds of boost without blowing, and 20 pounds should give me around 320 or so. and the good thing is that i just bought a laptop so i can start to tune ecu’s.
i never said i was 100% sure that cp makes rods, but that is why i said “found on ebay”. i think you meant OEM, and how much power will they hold?? if i’m gonna rip apart my engine to rebuild, OEM is pointless. i’d rather go for something worth while. when something breaks, i go performance!! and broke
Where to start??? Well your set-up is quite a list but should be thoroughly researched first before starting.
stage 3 crower cams + cam gears- Good Idea
cp pistons and rods- 84mm CP Pistons and eagle rods…Cheap!!!
eagle crank- you won’t need this unless your dead set on running H22 rods…Expensive!!!
zex springs,retainers- pretty decent but why not crower? they won’t warranty it since your mix matching parts if you drop a valve.
ferrae valves- Don’t know much about these, but Supertech Valves FTW
spoon chipped + programed ecu- Spoon doesn’t make FI chips. you will need to look into Crome, hondata, Neptune, Turboedit for tuning.
also with all that your doing, you will need bigger injectors. keep it simple. keep it moving. just my .02.
armed farret- oh well, so i messed up, whoop de do. why do you have to be a dick and start shit. it seems as if everyone and their mother is trying to ruin my threads and start arguments. whatever man i’m just trying to get some feedback and some suggestions. if i am wrong tell me, don’t be a dick…dick
smokeintegra- thanks for the feedback, yeah it’s just a starter list on stuff i was looking into. i didn’t know about the warrenty of parts. my cousin swears by ferrae valves so i thought i’d try them. i was going to run the H22 rods, wouldn’t that be a stronger choice?
if you’re talking about rods for an H22 engine, they won’t fit. the H22 engine’s rod specs are as follows:
Big End Bore (crank journal bore): 2.008"
Length: 5.636"
For an LS engine:
BE Bore: 1.890"
and the length is: 5.394"
(specs taken from Pauter’s website)
If H22 is a brand of rod, it’s one i’ve never heard of.
Smoke: Pauters are nice, but in the vast majority of “typical” turbo honda builds, they’re not necessary. I certainly won’t knock anyone who uses them, they’re fantastic kit. Just one of those “overbuilding” instances. Kind of like 400hp and below doesn’t need sleeving, but some people do it anyway.
Ok, going off there website, you can, but why again? bigger doesn’t always mean stronger… if you want to stay cheap, go with the eagles with ARP Bolts.
so you would spend nearly a thousand dollars on a specialized crank with factory cast (meaning WEAK) rods instead of spending, what, 700 on eagle rods and forged pistons?
i guess you would be the person who’d truly deserve the fruits of such a decision.
armed ferret- listen i’m not going to argue with you, not what i’m here for. i’m getting input from other builders so i can then decide what to do. going with the eagle crank and the h22 rods was a thought because i figured i might as well put something really worth it into my engine while i have it apart so i don’t have to rebuild it so soon. who knows maybe this’ll end up being my drag car with 700hp. but this is why i am asking ?'s. i knew it was an expensive part so i wanted to see what others had to say before i went and blew money on it. you think a stock crank will hold 400-500 hp?? if so thats prob my best bet for now.
A stock crank can hold power upwards to 1000+. You have ALOT of RESEARCHING to do still. there was a comment that said it best on another thread. some of what we call upgrades, arent really upgrades, because honda knew what they were doing the first time. now if you had a ford mustang 5.0 with 500hp, then you need to change the crank because they split in half.
I don’t have anything against h22’s but look into b-series rods. there just as strong, if not stronger. I have to say that the strongest off the shelf rod set would have to be Pauter hands down. but like armed ferret said. that is OVERBUILDING if you don’t plan to have over 700hp.