my b18 is blowing smoke under hard acceleration, time for a rebuild. im thinking about either rebuilding the ls for all motor or getting another b18 or b20 and going turbo. my only question is howmuch can i expect to spend to get 225/200 to the wheel and what will that set up consist of?
tia
all motor is more dependable for a daily driver IMO and doesnt require as much tuning (in the long run).
the boost required to create horsepower in a turbo setup wears out the engine. you can do a pretty nice all motor setup or a pretty nice turbo setup for about 3500. but with that 3500 spent on an all motor setup you’ll have a very strong motor that can handle high revving. if that 3500 was spent on a turbo kit and professional installation you would still have the stock rods and all other weak components of a stock motor. you’ll end up spending more money on the same dependibility if you go turbo
I completely disagree. Anyone who has read Corky Bell’s “Maximum Boost” could tell you that making power all motor is much more stressful on the engine than any boost (read correctly done boost) application will be.
All that crap about all motor being more dependable you can just throw out the window as well. If you know what you are doing, then you shouldn’t have a problem. Also, things are of course more likely to break when you make more power, so since it’s easier to make power with a turbo than any other set-up (besides nitrous) than you will see more people messing thier shit up.
all motor is the buildup of a motor to create more horsepower. things wont break if they are getting built up. forged rods and pistons make the engine STRONGER and able to handle the new power.
With all motor there are only two ways to increase power.
turbo is fun but if you’ve got a fast all motor teg its more impressive.
Stu- The amount of stress in relation to revving double after 8k, but is only around 1.5 times as much up to 8. I dont know why, but I remember reading it with a long equation attached to it. It also happens after 9k (I.E 10k is twice as stressful as 9)
Yeah the word I was looking for is “exponential” I just couldn’t think of it at the time. Maybe I’ll dig “Maximum Boost,” out and look it up again.
If you want horsepower around that range i would just go B20 with high compression pistons. It will be alot cheaper than going on boost, also more reliable for the street. I’m running a LS/VTEC setup right now and i pushed out 180hp to the wheels on a high compression setup.
You can expect to spend about a good 2 grand on a setup like a B20 check out this site pyrracing.com
is that why motorcycles wear out a lot faster than cars? cuz that honda cbr 600 f4i doesnt redline till 14,150rpm
i would really look into the much lower limit of the b20 cylinder walls before considering it, unless you want to sleeve and build it but you might as well just do it to a cheaper ls. those things are cracking all over the place, na or fi.
Originally posted by 90gs
is that why motorcycles wear out a lot faster than cars? cuz that honda cbr 600 f4i doesnt redline till 14,150rpm
I would assume that is a major contributer.
they wear out faster? so getting a late 80’s ninja would be out of the question eh…
Originally posted by XDEep
they wear out faster? so getting a late 80’s ninja would be out of the question eh…
Maybe, how many miles does it have. At least where I’m from, Colorado, motorcycles are only ridden maybe six months out of the year.
Originally posted by XDEep
they wear out faster? so getting a late 80’s ninja would be out of the question eh…
Motorcycle engines are often and easily rebuilt after about 30k miles or so.
As for turbo vs. n/a reliablity, the n/a setup would make the engine less reliable if it was running at high rpms, but a turbo setup would be more likely to break driveline components like the tranny, axles, etc. because of the high torque, even if it is tuned properly. Something to consider.
Also remember that to make 200 all-motor whp on an LS motor will be very expensive and not streetable, if possible.
LAtes.
I have a 91 teg ls, slipped the timing belt, thought I bent a valve or two so bought pnp head, dual valve springs, titainium retainers, pnp intake manifold, 70mm throttle body,and on the block eagle forged rods, 10.5-1 comp je piston .30 over bore str blocksaver, the crank bluebrinted an balanced, 2 months in the making, with all the mods mentioned my engine should be ripping out 227 hp, 3 weeks to go before it is dyno tuned. It cost right at 3000 for parts that is pistons, rods, h.v. oil pump, water pump,blocksaver,head gasket,pnp head, pnp intake maifold, 70mm throttle body, lightened crankpulley, acura axels new from factory,and adjustable cam gears. I will let you know how the dyno tune goes, peace
If you are expecting 227 whp out of that setup you will be sadly disappointed come dyno day. How did you get that figure anyways? 227, seems very exact.
Originally posted by integpwr75
acura axels new from factory
but why?
i think youll need a lil more bore, more cr, and a tad more cam for such goals…
well lets see the port n polished head set from gude performance dynos out at 97 hp gain and thats with a stock block. take 97 +130 you get 227hp do the math!