hello all i have a semi built b18a1 ls motor. it has cp pistons 9;0,1 compression, manley rods, acl bearings throughout, ls crank polished and balanced, arp hardware in block and head studs, cometic head gasket, skunk2 intake manifold, gates racing timing belt, all new honda water pump oil pump oil pick up and tensioner, moroso oil pan, i believe i might have missed something but what im trying to get at is what turbo can net me at around 300 - 400 hp fairly easy without too many psi running threw it. its gonna be for my dd so lets hear what you all have to say… thanks:cross:
hey. im looking to turbo my 91 LS aswell. was looking to build it, im wondering how much all the stuff you did to yours cost all together without the turbo. just looking for a quick estimate.
im looking for around the same numbers actually for my DD.
good luck with it.
i think it was roughly around 1400 just for the bottom end… labor was done at school… so it was free… idk how much your machine shop would charge you so yea…
sounds like you’re looking for something like a GT30 or even a GT35 however you’ll have some decent lag with a GT35. a GT28 will get you to that power goal with a little more psi and spool much faster. for reference i made 300whp on a stock b18a with a gt2871r at 18psi.
running 18 psi on a dd is not ideal for me… on any turbo lol… i wonder if i would hit 300 whp with that gt28 with my mods without going that high on psi… dd i would like to stay around 7 to 10 psi… race days up it a little bit higher for more whp…
For that power range on a daily driver, i’ve had good success with a quality T3/T4 57 trim or a borg-warner ‘bullseye’ s366 both good street turbos, and will spin 400 hp on a built honda block, just my 02.
jasp what was your whp with your t3/t4 57 trim? i am leaning towards the t3/t4 just because its cheaper than the gt28. Oh and i just sent in my head to my machine shop going in is brian crower stage 2 turbo cams, brian crowers dual valve springs and retainers and brian crower valves, AEM cam gears. I dont know if i should bother with port and polishing the head. Any ideas? I’ve been at this build for over a year now going slow but making sure i have the quality parts in dont want to go half assed and having things go wrong. Anyone know what brand of fuel pressure regulator is ideal and what size injectors i should go for?:hi5:
Shaolyn, i had considered the gt28 as well at first and it is not a bad turbo by any means, but tends to run out of breath beyond about 380 or so, and higher boost pressures are needed to achieve your goal.
To answer your question, it was at 295 at 15 psi with the t3/t4 9:0 comp on a sleeved b20 block.
I do not have the extensive mods that you do, and as a result, with the quality parts you’ve chosen and head work of any kind on an ls block, you can expect some good gains over my numbers!
I run an aeromotive a1000 -6 regulator, and many consider that to be a good one as well.
As for injectors, i’m using 725cc Injector Dynamics (saturated, I.E. obd1 converted) for use with the hondata s300…
I am far from an expert, but will be happy to assist if you have anymore questions, My da was been down for a year just to make sure i turboed it right, so nothing wrong with taking your time. Jasper-
the only time you’ll hit full boost is if your WOT. so unless you drive WOT all the time daily driving you’ll never hit full boost. when i accelerate normally i might hit 5-10psi max. and that’s accelerating pretty fast. if you’ve ever driven a turbo car you probably know what i mean. just something to think about. usually people who are looking for daily driving setups run smaller turbo’s. a t3/t4 57 trim would do the trick also for cheaper. btw don’t forget i made that power on a fully stock obd0 b18a1. on a built block and head you’ll make that power with much lower boost. the obd0 b18a has to be the worst flowing head of all b serie engines.
i understand now… im still in the learning stage thats why i try to take my time and learn from the forums before i actually go buying things… i’ve been in my cousins 95 gsr and i think its pretty quick… his whole bottom end was rebuilt with eagle rods je pistons eagle crank, arp hardware, clevitz i think it was bearings his head is all stock running a t3 60-1 turbo and he was getting 378 whp and 285 lbs tq at 17 psi but when i rode and drove in it it sometimes would break loose. i dont know how to explain it and its something i dont want…
300whp and above (and even less for that matter) will break loose if you WOT or just give enough gas. big or small turbo. if you don’t want it to break loose i’d aim for a lower power goal. maybe something around 250whp which will be a little easier to control.
well then i guess i’ll have to deal with it breaking loose lol… anyone know what size throttle body would be right for my setup? and what size intercooler are you guys running?
i should start taking some pictures of my build and car…
I’m using a 68mm BDL throttle body which is pleenty for only 400hp. My intercooler is 22’’ by 11’’ by 3’’ garrett, and will flow up to about 680hp…
haha yes pretty much. with my old ls-t at 300whp i would spin third gear no problem at 100km/h on the highway with no brake boosting.
68mm will be perfect. intercooler im using a 28x7x2.5 with 2.5" inlet/outlet. this size is good for up to around 400-500hp
do you guys have pictures of your intercooler installed with bumper on? trying to mix function with form…
Yea, no prob gimme a little bit to downsize’em out of my cam… Also, just food for thought but i found it ALOT easier to utilize a jdm front bumper support for two reasons: one, weight savings (about 35lbs), bonus. And two, there is alot less cutting involved to get it to fit properly…
Here you go:
And from some angles as well…The I/C is 22’’ by 11’’ by 3’’
jasper are your charge pipes custom?